B230f Infamous rattle when cold

morch_66479 · 2022-04-16T13:10:56+00:00

Oooh piston slap and a lot of it.

Anthony

Good thinking but dead hushers (Absorbers) make a repetitive click rather than more major knock / rattle.

nugget_940

Anthony
Good thinking but dead hushers (Absorbers) make a repetitive click rather than more major knock / rattle.

Fair point.

Hopefully the new motor goes alright for you mate.

I think the group would be interested in a teardown in the old one to see what was causing the noise.

morch_66479

nugget_940
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/210785#Comment_210785
Fair point.
Hopefully the new motor goes alright for you mate.
I think the group would be interested in a teardown in the old one to see what was causing the noise.

Finally another miniature update.

. I pulled the sump off the old block and the shell bearings look a little used but nothing major down the bottom end so I assume it's slap.

If I find time I might pull the head off and see how 'slappy' it is.

ramrod

I rebuilt a head and didn’t put the rubber hushers in, for numerous reasons

didn’t sound like the OP’s video at all

morch_66479

Got the old block out and new block in. Now to connect everything up.

morch_66479

New block is in but i can't get it to run right (it idles really rough but won't rev up) even though it was sold to me as a runner.

I found injector one had failed and also ran a timing light at idle and the ignition seems to be out even though all the timing marks line up perfectly. The joys of it all :-(

ramrod

The engine block is one thing, however the way this engine runs is the sum of all of the components that go on it and their quality and or how they've been installed

Which brings me to the question, how much of your original componentry are you still using? In other words did you only change the short block or did you also replace everything that goes with it?

morch_66479

So I have 2 Volvo 240’s:

Silver wagon is running fine

White wagon is the problem car (but ran electically fine before the engine swap as the issue was a mechanical failure in the block)

At this stage I’ve moved over all the original components apart from the crank sensor. Although when I unplug the crank sensor it cuts out and I have no error codes being displayed under pin 2 or 6 so one would assume it’s ok?

Original items swapped over include: TPS, Knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAF, coil, leads, fuel rail, fuel regulator,

Also I have swapped out components from my Silver 240: Coil, leads, distributor cap, ignition module on the FL corner of engine bay, Both ECU’s inside the car (passenger and driver side) Installed new plugs

Inspected and tested: Both fuel pumps, fuel pump relay inspected fuel injectors but they’re also working ok after I swapped out a failed one (No1) Triple checked timing belt fitment, checked the cam is is the correct orientation at TDC - All OK

My only lead is this: I also compared the ignition timing with a timing light on my Silver 240 and it lights up exactly on the mark but my White one is retarded by 30+ degrees.

I have no idea what else I can do with this ☹

jamesinc

Okay sanity check time I think, because the timing light generally doesn't lie. If you take out #1 spark plug, turn the engine so the crank mark lines up on 0 on the timing cover, put a long screwdriver through the spark plug hole and just go back and sneak up on TDC and feel with the screwdriver where the top of the piston stroke is and see if it agrees with the crank mark.

Next take the oil filler cap off and verify you can see the cam lobes for #1 both pointing up and away from the engine equally in opposite directions. Bear in mind the engine is slanted over so they won't be aligned to the ground, they'll be aligned to the slant of the engine (imaginary line from cam pulley to crank pulley).

Finally take the distributor cap off and verify the rotor is pointing diagonally toward the front of the block. When you put the cap on, the #1 lead should drop down right on top of where the rotor is pointing.

morch_66479

Yes, I've done all of this and compared the look and angle of everything to my silver car at TDC and still doesn't want to run right.

I'm at my wits end with this. I usually get through issues eventually but this one has taken the medal for hardest issue to resolve.

Maybe It needs a set of fresh (Volvo 240 experts) eyes laid on it. My mind is fried at this stage

Free beers for anyone that want to come to Point Cook and scratch heads over this issue.

ramrod

Maybe record a video of the problem, that would help us see and hear clues for where to look

morch_66479

It's so hard to make out over phone audio.

Although I've just had a brain wave and whilst swapping the engine out I replaced the rear main seal so maybe I put the flex plate on in the wrong orientation which is now throwing my ignition off?

Is this a possibility and how can I check this or correct this?

jamesinc

AH OKAY yes an incorrectly indexed flex plate would cause this symptom. Sorry, I would have mentioned that but I didn't know you'd had it off.

morch_66479

jamesinc
AH OKAY yes an incorrectly indexed flex plate would cause this symptom. Sorry, I would have mentioned that but I didn't know you'd had it off.

Yeah, I should have mentioned in detail what i had done. I didn't even work through this in my head until yesterday but nice to finally get there.

jamesinc
The easiest way to check is to remove the starter motor. Then at TDC you should find the two missing holes on the flex plate tone ring roughly align with the starter motor hole.

I went home and checked this and it turns out i had the flex plate installed incorrectly. So my mate John & I stayed up until 12:30am changing this back to how it should be. I have to finish off connecting up a few more things before i can run it but i reckon this should resolve the problem.

It's disappointing that Volvo didn't think of a smarter way to allow fools like me to only install it one way instead of having 8 position options. I think other manufacturers have 1 of the 8 holes at a different PCD to the other 7 so this means it can only bolt on in one orientation.

Anyway, this is good learning.

jamesinc

The easiest way to check is to remove the starter motor. Then at TDC you should find the two missing holes on the flex plate tone ring roughly align with the starter motor hole.

Major Ledfoot

Looking forward to see how this works out.

Also interested in learning what was causing that horrible noise in the original engine.

morch_66479

Yeah, Im trying to build up the courage to rip the sump off the old block but this current engine setup has me drained as I'm also a perfectionist so want things as close to 100% as possible.

I will get there eventually though.

Another Volvo 240 rescued and will be up for sale at some stage in the near future

morch_66479

Update, turns out I had installed the flex plate in the incorrect position and it wasn't allowing the engine to run. I managed to get it started the other night and it runs fine now.

Now to tidy a few little things up and hopefully it'll find a nice new home to go to.

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