steering rack gaiters-fitting 1984 240

Porkchop

I'm sure one of the forum's regulars will know the answer to this one, I'm just about to send off to get some new gaiters for the steering on my 240 but in the past I've had a mechanic do the fitting for me (just one less job to do in a busy life) but I think I can probaly do it do it for a much more reasonable price considering I can get the kit from the states for around $40 AUD plus postage http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-steering-rack-bellow-kit-240-242-244-245-260-270881
The only thing I'm unclear of (and my Haynes isn't being of much use) is what technique is required to get the gaiter/bellows over the nut on the steering rod after removing the ball joint, I'm assuming if I leave it exactly in place I won't need a wheel alignment...

240Joe

You could mark where the nut was by scratching, or using a texta. Or count the number of thread ridges in?

egads (she/her)

Whiteout is what I have used in the past for marking.

Porkchop

I was under the impression that the ball joint position was a pretty finely tuned adjustment-don't want to scrub my tyres out :( Having said that, I'm quite happy to give it a go being the tightwad that I am! The thing that interests me is that my mechanic told me that has some sort of spreader that he uses to ease the gaiter on, I don't think he's game to to go into more detail in case I jury-rig something myself!

Porkchop

240Joe;25453 wroteYou could mark where the nut was by scratching, or using a texta. Or count the number of thread ridges in?

Yep I guess I could clean the thread up really well and lightly file the ridge with a triangular file or use a junior hacksaw to make a mark, I suppose I've just been averse to the idea of removing the nut...Maybe I should renew the ball joint at the same time?

Porkchop

egads;25454 wroteWhiteout is what I have used in the past for marking.

Sorry I hadn't referred back to the various comments (including your's) , how did the operation go generally speaking? I've fiddled about over the years with most of the bits and pieces on cars that've owned but have steered clear (no pun intended) of stuff like the front end and timing etc. I should actually make sure I've go the right power steering unit before ordering, haven't checked whether it's a CAM or ZFK, will do that tomorrow...

egads (she/her)

Pretty good. Got a real alignment a week or two after doing them but depends on how the front feels post fixing.

240Joe

egads's idea of whiteout is even better than mine. I've been pretty rough with gauging where the nut was in the past and have never had issues with wheel alignment afterwards. A past method was taking a pic of where it was with my phone!

It is a good time to pop on new ball joints, especially if you don't have a ball joint removal tool and have to use a big hammer to get the old ones off the strut. I've damaged ball joint threads in the past by doing this making the ball joint unusable.

I don't see why you would need a speader for the rubber things, just lube it up a bit if anything ...but I'm no mechanic. :)

Porkchop

egads;25473 wrotePretty good. Got a real alignment a week or two after doing them but depends on how the front feels post fixing.

My tyres all round are down to about 20% so I'm seriously thinking of getting a new set quite soon, probably get an alignment done at the same time, I don't mind scrubbing out the old ones but I'd cry if it happens to the new.

Porkchop

240Joe;25476 wrote
It is a good time to pop on new ball joints, especially if you don't have a ball joint removal tool and have to use a big hammer to get the old ones off the strut. I've damaged ball joint threads in the past by doing this making the ball joint unusable.

Didn't realise I'd have to get up close and personal with the ball joints but I hear what you're saying, wonder what a removal tool costs?

240Joe

About $25, roughly the cost of new ball joints from fcp

Porkchop

Are we talking Auto barn or Supercheap?

240Joe

Yeah both of those should have them, I've also seen them in total tools.

Porkchop

Thanks for that, I guess I may not to have to worry about a ball joint spreader/splitter if I'm fitting new units, if I stuff them up getting them off I'll be replacing them anyway...Mike Brace on the UK forum has a good how-to for replacing front shocks on a 240 which I've been looking at and in it he gives a bit of a run-down of doing the ball joints as well.