Andrews '91 240 Wagon

Beelzeboss · 2021-01-12T22:15:29+00:00

Nice car, scrape on side can progressively be fixed with any similar colour car panels and a bit of ",learning body repairs" if you are really keen...

Vee_Que

Nice hot rod! Soarer front and rear too?

On the head. Just because a feeler blade doesn't show it's warped, it will need machining Because it's aluminium and it's been off the motor and the tension it's been through its 130k km of work is off. I would not be surprised if it's done another head gasket. I always machine alloy heads as they will never go on again and last.

Beelzeboss

ramrod
I have a centre bearing

Thanks mate, I ended up finding the part number and grabbing one locally from a bearing shop.

Vee_Que
Nice hot rod! Soarer front and rear too?
On the head. Just because a feeler blade doesn't show it's warped, it will need machining Because it's aluminium and it's been off the motor and the tension it's been through its 130k km of work is off. I would not be surprised if it's done another head gasket. I always machine alloy heads as they will never go on again and last.

Cheers! Yep, Soarer front and rear subframe including all steering, brakes, etc.

I've replaced a few alloy head gaskets before and never had a recurrence, but I'm definitely not ruling it out. If it has to come off again it will be flattened.

Vee_Que

Any thread on the build? Is an engineer involved? I'm planning a similar thing for my 36' Hudson.

Every time I see an alloy head on a mill, there is always low spots after taking a .001' pass.

Beelzeboss

Vee_Que
Any thread on the build? Is an engineer involved? I'm planning a similar thing for my 36' Hudson.
Every time I see an alloy head on a mill, there is always low spots after taking a .001' pass.

Yep, I've got one on ozrodders forum but I think that forum is going to go down soon, it has many bugs. Best bet is the one here on locostUSA:

http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19549

I did engage an engineer at the start of the project to determine the feasibility and what rules I needed to take note of for full rego, but I'm thinking of going to a different one for the rest of the process. I've heard good things about Peter Hayes from Tacticc, in Gundagai, so I'll give him a call when I've got the car ready.

Not to derail the thread but the hot rod is very close to a rolling chassis at this point :D

Ex850R

Beelzeboss
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/193391#Comment_193391
Yep, I've got one on ozrodders forum but I think that forum is going to go down soon, it has many bugs. Best bet is the one here on locostUSA:
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19549
I did engage an engineer at the start of the project to determine the feasibility and what rules I needed to take note of for full rego, but I'm thinking of going to a different one for the rest of the process. I've heard good things about Peter Hayes from Tacticc, in Gundagai, so I'll give him a call when I've got the car ready.
Not to derail the thread but the hot rod is very close to a rolling chassis at this point :D
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/GVZIKVFJJQW0/51228365643-2baec36af2-c.jpg

I'm hanging out to see a working front loader in there, will it have a belt drive or 12v motor? Fast whitegoods....

Beelzeboss

Ex850R
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/193416#Comment_193416
I'm hanging out to see a working front loader in there, will it have a belt drive or 12v motor? Fast whitegoods....

The front loader had too much vibration, so I ended up changing it out.

I'm being kicked out of the shed so I've had to put it together as a roller and store it on my car trailer.

We will see how the mighty 240 goes towing it all. It's a 750kg trailer and I'm guessing the hot rod weighs maybe 600kg as it sits, so it's within the tow capacity but I can't imagine I'll be setting any land speed records up hills ?

Beelzeboss

Good morning all,

just to keep this thread current the car is currently running very well, though it keeps blowing the O/D fuse so I need to check there isn't a short in the wiring somewhere/ It also seems to be leaking coolant from the heater core or the heater tap. It only loses coolant when the heater is on, so I'm leaning towards the tap.

In other news I'll be moving to a house with a double garage next month and first project on the list is to fit the turbo, intercooler and full 3" exhaust to the 240. I am really enjoying driving the car with the A cam and more advanced timing but it has potential to be so much better! I'm not sure what my plan is for the gearbox, I'll probably just run it at a very low boost level with the stock AW70 and keep an eye on @Samman88's progress with the MA5 swap. I really, really would like a manual gearbox in the car.

Beelzeboss

Well I moved into the new place last weekend, but I'm having to do a lot of work to the garage to make it into a nice place to work.

What I started with:

Barely qualifies as a 2 car garage, 5.2m x 5.3m, but it's what I've got, so ONWARDS! First step was I painted the floor with an epoxy type paint.

Then I (very roughly) framed in a door and covered up the lattice with FC sheeting. I would have liked to have ripped out the lattice entirely and built a new frame there, but I didn't have time before some potentially heavy rains over the next few days. There are many gaps I need to fix up but at least it should stop the bulk of the water.

Next up I'll be organising everything into position within the garage and planning out where I want lights and power points (the place has 3-phase ?).

jamesinc

I'm all about those epoxy floors, some of the best money I ever spent

Beelzeboss

jamesinc
I'm all about those epoxy floors, some of the best money I ever spent

I agree, they look so good. They'd look better if I'd had the floor ground beforehand but the rough surface will help with slipping when wet (though I also added the anti-slip additive).

Just a couple of pics of the car finally at the new place

And I tested to see if it would fit in the not-yet-organised garage

Success! Once I've moved around a few things and thrown out some rubbish there will be space at the sides of the car for working on it (and the hot rod). I'll have to back it out slightly if I want to do anything serious in the engine bay, but it's a workable solution.

Beelzeboss

Managed to tow the hot rod back to the new place from the central coast

I'd put the weight of the hot rod at ~500kg and the trailer is 750kg, so it's getting pretty close to the 1500kg max towing of the 240. I could easily maintain 80-100kph on the flat, but as soon as I hit a decent uphill I'd be down to 60kph or so. I didn't have to do any hill-starts, which was lucky because I don't think it would actually pull away from a stop on a decent slope.

The sooner I can get the turbo fitted to the 240 the better, I'm hoping the Evo turbo will be able to start spooling on the converter, given that it spools very early on the 2L Evo motor and the Redblock has smaller ports and more displacement.

Paul_Roodenrys

It's not the sizeof the shed that matters but the way you use what you've got. I have a very good friend who has restored several Daimlers in a normal sized garage which also houses his partners car. He does his mechanical work in a garden shed and even has a milling machine in there. His eye for detail is amazing and he always has a project on the go. If I had a fraction of his drive my build would have been finished in a weekend.

Beelzeboss

Paul_Roodenrys
It's not the sizeof the shed that matters but the way you use what you've got. I have a very good friend who has restored several Daimlers in a normal sized garage which also houses his partners car. He does his mechanical work in a garden shed and even has a milling machine in there. His eye for detail is amazing and he always has a project on the go. If I had a fraction of his drive my build would have been finished in a weekend.

Very true words!

I had some time to work on the Volvo today, got the battery terminals cleaned and covered in dielectric grease (left me stranded at the shopping centre because it wouldn't start ? ), reconnected the subwoofer, put in the dashmat, and fixed 4th gear! Turned out the overdrive wire under the car was absolutely destroyed from age. It had also come loose from one of the brackets and the driveshaft had worn a massive hole through the insulation. What a pain to fix, but worth it to have overdrive again.

Next up will be to figure out why the ECU won't read the coolant temp sensor, it makes it pretty hard to start in the morning with no coolant temp trims and I'm sure it's running rich.

carnut222

Beelzeboss
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/198744#Comment_198744
Very true words!
I had some time to work on the Volvo today, got the battery terminals cleaned and covered in dielectric grease (left me stranded at the shopping centre because it wouldn't start ? ), reconnected the subwoofer, put in the dashmat, and fixed 4th gear! Turned out the overdrive wire under the car was absolutely destroyed from age. It had also come loose from one of the brackets and the driveshaft had worn a massive hole through the insulation. What a pain to fix, but worth it to have overdrive again.
Next up will be to figure out why the ECU won't read the coolant temp sensor, it makes it pretty hard to start in the morning with no coolant temp trims and I'm sure it's running rich.

I had a problem on my 79 245 LH2.4 project car - I had put a new engine coolant temp sensor in when I swapped in the B230FX and LH2.4 harness...a couple months later it was getting hard to start and once failed to start due to flooding. Turns out the connector on the coolant temp sensor is either somewhat loose or corroded...when I pushed on it the sensor resistance value changed at the ECU, and when I let off it went to almost infinity or some value that the ECU would have read as very cold temp, causing it to flood. As a temp measure I just put a zip tie around the wire harness to pre-load the temp sensor connector...seems to have worked until I can get better access to investigate/clean the terminals.

Beelzeboss

carnut222
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/200324#Comment_200324
I had a problem on my 79 245 LH2.4 project car - I had put a new engine coolant temp sensor in when I swapped in the B230FX and LH2.4 harness...a couple months later it was getting hard to start and once failed to start due to flooding. Turns out the connector on the coolant temp sensor is either somewhat loose or corroded...when I pushed on it the sensor resistance value changed at the ECU, and when I let off it went to almost infinity or some value that the ECU would have read as very cold temp, causing it to flood. As a temp measure I just put a zip tie around the wire harness to pre-load the temp sensor connector...seems to have worked until I can get better access to investigate/clean the terminals.

THanks, I'll check the connector, but my car isn't LH2.4 anymore it has an aftermarket ECU. It's a new coolant sensor but the plug could be a bit ordinary. It's never worked for me, I suspect I didn't wire in the sensor ground correctly.

Beelzeboss

Alright I'm sick of waiting for the electrician to connect stuff in the garage so I'm doing as much of the turbo preliminary work as I can over the next few days.

Boxing days results:

What an absolute pain! I ended up having to remove the engine mounts and brackets entirely, loosen the steering column uni, unclip the brake lines running along the crossmember, disconnect shroud from radiator, lift the engine with an engine crane, disconnect and lower the front crossmember, as well as disconnect the power steering pressure line. All this, along with prying the engine sideways just so, allowed the sump to rotate 90 degrees towards the passenger side and then finally drop past the oil pump pickup.

Today I'll be removing a tiny amount of the windage tray to make installation a little easier, welding in a piece of 16mm tube as a turbo oil drain and reinstalling the sump. Hopefully there will be enough time to move onto moving the radiator and mounting the intercooler.

Ex850R

Not using a threaded nipple/socket as hose connector for drain hose?

Beelzeboss

Ex850R
Not using a threaded nipple/socket as hose connector for drain hose?

Do you mean threading the block and installing a nipple? Or welding an -AN fitting onto the pan?

Either way my research online leads me to believe that going in through the pan is easiest and as long as the hole is above the windage tray there isn't a problem with proper drainage. I didn't fancy drilling that big of a hole through cast iron with a hand drill and would like to take the pan off to clear the chips in either case.

I've never had any issues in the past with a simple high temperature, oil safe rubber hose for a turbo drain, so if it's good enough for almost all OEM's, it's good enough for me! ?

Beelzeboss

Today was fairly productive, then the weather forced me to move the car inside.

First I drilled the sump with a step drill for the return

Then I roughly bent some 16x1.6 tube in the vice with a piece of round bar as a lever

Some minor crushing but nothing that will be a problem. Then I MIG welded the tube to the sump inside and out

I need to die grind out the inside weld a little but I'm sure it will seal

Next I enlarged the opening for the oil pickup slightly to make it easier to install

I took roughly (very roughly) 15mm off around the pickup

Finally, while the oil return weld was cooling down, I relocated the lower radiator mounts so there was room for an intercooler

I still need to cut a bit more off the intercooler in order to make it fit properly with the standard size battery, but once the garage has power I'll be able to TIG weld it all back together.

Tomorrow I'll be finishing the radiator top mounts, reinstalling the sump, trimming the fan shroud and radiator hoses, then doing an oil and filter change!

Beelzeboss

Well not as productive as I'd have liked today, but I managed to finish the top radiator mounts

Looks factory! ?

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