Andrews '91 240 Wagon

Beelzeboss · 2021-01-12T22:15:29+00:00

Nice car, scrape on side can progressively be fixed with any similar colour car panels and a bit of ",learning body repairs" if you are really keen...

Ex850R

Get painter to blend in on that side as that is ok when looking at it.

Beelzeboss

Ex850R
Get painter to blend in on that side as that is ok when looking at it.

Will do, he'll be painting a bit of the rear quarter as well so I'll ask him if he can blend it all together.

Beelzeboss

Well my radiator still hasn't arrived yet, I suspect it's been lost in the post because the seller says they don't have the correct tracking number for it.

Anyway, something odd happened today driving to work. I was coming up to a set of lights and the car started stumbling under throttle. Any amount of throttle would cause the engine to drop in revs, but when I came off the throttle it would borderline idle properly... before shutting off in peak hour traffic just as I was blocking a fairly major right hand turn in my area.

Luckily after about 20s of sitting there I tried the starter and the car fired right up and drove the rest of the way without issue, but I strongly suspect my in-tank fuel pump is on the way out/broken.

I've been noticing since I've owned the car the mainfuel pump is sometimes quite loud, and also occasionally the car seems to be very down on power. Now that this has happened I think I'll have to test to see if I can hear the in-tank pump working and probably source a replacement.

Where are people getting the 12mm diameter fuel hose which runs from the tank to the main fuel pump? And also the o-ring and lock ring on the tank?

past_the_moon

Beelzeboss
Well my radiator still hasn't arrived yet, I suspect it's been lost in the post because the seller says they don't have the correct tracking number for it.
Anyway, something odd happened today driving to work. I was coming up to a set of lights and the car started stumbling under throttle. Any amount of throttle would cause the engine to drop in revs, but when I came off the throttle it would borderline idle properly... before shutting off in peak hour traffic just as I was blocking a fairly major right hand turn in my area.
Luckily after about 20s of sitting there I tried the starter and the car fired right up and drove the rest of the way without issue, but I strongly suspect my in-tank fuel pump is on the way out/broken.
I've been noticing since I've owned the car the mainfuel pump is sometimes quite loud, and also occasionally the car seems to be very down on power. Now that this has happened I think I'll have to test to see if I can hear the in-tank pump working and probably source a replacement.
Where are people getting the 12mm diameter fuel hose which runs from the tank to the main fuel pump? And also the o-ring and lock ring on the tank?

re the fuel issue, i had similar troubles with a truck once. switch it off after it lost power and wait a couple minutes and it would run again fine for however long. mechanic finally found a cotton ball in the fuel tank. sabotaged. it would float around in the tank until it got sucked up into the intake and jammed the line so the truck would just idle only. prob same goes for bits of rubber in the tank from deteriorating fuel line etc. frustrating as hell and dangerous too in today's impatient, intense traffic.

ramrod

Repco sells fuel hose

you want to also change the in tank pump hose

this must be submersible fuel hose

Beelzeboss

ramrod
Repco sells fuel hose
you want to also change the in tank pump hose
this must be submersible fuel hose

Yes I'll definitely be replacing the in-tank portion as well, SAE 30R10 submersible.

I thought Repco could only get 1/2" and other imperial sizes? I'll give them a call.

timbo

My local Repco don't usually keep submersible fuel hose, you're probably better off going to enzed if there's one near you

Beelzeboss

timbo
My local Repco don't usually keep submersible fuel hose, you're probably better off going to enzed if there's one near you

Thanks mate, I think there is an Enzed or Pirtek close by

carnut222
Also just a thought - check your air intake hoses to make sure everything is tight between the MAF and throttle body...and no holes in the accordion hose. More common for them to come off on a boosted car, but you never know! :)

I'll check it tomorrow, definitely a possibility that I split it while changing the head gasket

jamesinc
If you need another rad, rockauto.com sells Nissens radiators for about $200 dollarydoos delivered.

Cheers mate, the one arriving (hopefully) in the mail is an all aluminium jobby which looks pretty good, but if it falls through I'll keep that in mind

Laurie
240 Volvos have a common problem with the rubber hose connector perishing
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/153/YC5KWABBGK15.jpeg
in the fuel tank before the fuel pump. Symptoms are lack of power, uneven running and stalling of the engine. The engine usually restarts and will stall again after a few hundred meters. More than likely the fuel tank will be half full or less when air is sucked into the system by the fuel pump. You should recover the perished hose pieces from the tank. Remove the fuel filter and flush the fuel line. Often bits of perished hose will be flushed out. This flushing saves fuel carrying rubbish from blocking injectors.
Replace perished hose with fuel proof hose and fuel filter.
Have fun driving a reliable car!

Thanks mate, I'll definitely replace that hose when I do the pump.

A bit more news for everyone, when I started the car to leave work it wouldn't idle properly and threw a 1-2-1 code on the LH2.4 ECU, which my research says means the MAF/AFM/AMM has a problem. I took the connector off the sensor and replaced it several times in case it was just corrosion on the pins causing the issue. It made it home after that without incident but I'm not convinced the AMM is good... More testing required, but I'll be replacing the in-tank pump and hoses either way as preventative maintenance.

carnut222

Also just a thought - check your air intake hoses to make sure everything is tight between the MAF and throttle body...and no holes in the accordion hose. More common for them to come off on a boosted car, but you never know! :)

jamesinc

If you need another rad, rockauto.com sells Nissens radiators for about $200 dollarydoos delivered.

Laurie

240 Volvos have a common problem with the rubber hose connector perishing

in the fuel tank before the fuel pump. Symptoms are lack of power, uneven running and stalling of the engine. The engine usually restarts and will stall again after a few hundred meters. More than likely the fuel tank will be half full or less when air is sucked into the system by the fuel pump. You should recover the perished hose pieces from the tank. Remove the fuel filter and flush the fuel line. Often bits of perished hose will be flushed out. This flushing saves fuel carrying rubbish from blocking injectors.

Replace perished hose with fuel proof hose and fuel filter.

Have fun driving a reliable car!

ramrod

It isn't always what the book says the code is related to, different faults cause unrelated codes to be stored sometimes

Rough idling is 90% of the time caused by vacuum leaks, check them out properly first

After that, look at the fuel system (which you have already told us has problems)

Beelzeboss

ramrod
It isn't always what the book says the code is related to, different faults cause unrelated codes to be stored sometimes
Rough idling is 90% of the time caused by vacuum leaks, check them out properly first
After that, look at the fuel system (which you have already told us has problems)

I'll have another check of the hoses, but this rough idling problem is very on/off. The car runs like an absolute top most of the time, smooth idle on all 4 cylinders steady as a rock, then it will randomly start coughing and spluttering on throttle then eventually die.

Major Ledfoot
@Beelzeboss asks:
Where are people getting the 12mm diameter fuel hose which runs from the tank to the main fuel pump?
I went crazy and got it from a dealer, p/n 1312257. It's not cheap. If you have a Bee-Emm-Trouble-U place in your town, they should have metric hose in stock. This town doesn't.
And also the o-ring and lock ring on the tank?
FCP Euro, iPd, or maybe Berry's has some in stock.

Cheers Ledfoot, good to know another couple of sources :)

jamesinc
I just went to Pirtek* and bought the whatever fractional size it is that's 12.7mm. It works fine, it's a slip fit on the sender pipes just put a good hose clamp on it and it works fine.
* for about every 240 I've ever owned

Ahh I'd read on turbobricks of people just using 1/2" fuel hose. Did you get the EFI rated one? Or because it's just the lift pump the standard 50psi max hose should be fine?

wzrdovryndr
What's your plans for engine management when it comes time to turbo?

If I can find some cheap LH2.4 740 turbo computers then I'll go with that, but I'll most likely just use the EMS Stinger 4424 that I've got kicking around from a previous car. It's pretty basic, but then so is a B230F ? If i want to go onto historic rego I'll have to go with LH2.4.

Today I went and picked up a Hayman Reese 1.5T rated towbar that someone advertised on Facebook. The current bar on my car is only 1T rated and my trailer weighs 750kg so... not very useful load capacity in that instance haha

I know, I know, get a bigger tow car or buy a lighter trailer. However, I use this one to occasionally move machinery, where the big deck size is very handy, and it's been known to go to track days with 4 motorbikes on top ?

if I do need to move a car I have a few places I can borrow bigger tow cars.

Major Ledfoot

@Beelzeboss asks:

Where are people getting the 12mm diameter fuel hose which runs from the tank to the main fuel pump?

I went crazy and got it from a dealer, p/n 1312257. It's not cheap. If you have a Bee-Emm-Trouble-U place in your town, they should have metric hose in stock. This town doesn't.

And also the o-ring and lock ring on the tank?

FCP Euro, iPd, or maybe Berry's has some in stock.

wzrdovryndr

What's your plans for engine management when it comes time to turbo?

jamesinc

I just went to Pirtek* and bought the whatever fractional size it is that's 12.7mm. It works fine, it's a slip fit on the sender pipes just put a good hose clamp on it and it works fine.

* for about every 240 I've ever owned

jamesinc

@Beelzeboss I went with Pirtek's red fuel hose, which is EFI rated, I've used low pressure hose before but honestly never had good longevity from it, I've found it cracks after a year or two.

Beelzeboss

Well it's been a while since I've updated this, mainly because not much as happened with the car. I replaced the fuel pump and the car has been functional ever since.

Rego runs out next week and I'll be putting the car onto historic rego.

I've managed to source a turbo, manifold, intercooler, injectors, ECU and oil feed line. Now I just need to find time to fit it all, drill & weld an oil return bung, make a new exhaust and make intercooler pipes.

ramrod

With the return for the oil line from the turbo, you really want to drill the block for a straighter path down via gravity

Beelzeboss

ramrod
With the return for the oil line from the turbo, you really want to drill the block for a straighter path down via gravity

I've read success stories using both methods, what tips it for me is that if you drill the block you really should take the sump off anyway to clear the shavings, and at that point I'd rather just drill it and weld on a bung.

From what I've read on turbobricks as long as the return in the sump is up close to the flange it's not an issue :)

jamesinc

Yeah as long as it's plumbed in above the baffling in the sump you're fine, and this is also how Volvo did it before they started producing factory turbos.

I usually use -10AN or -12AN for return lines, it would take a pretty exceptional set of circumstances (like the car lying on its side) to cause oil to back up the hose enough to pressurise the CHRA and leak out past the seals.

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