Ok long story short I've recently been trying to make decisions for the future of my 240 and among the pathways are gearbox selections...

Obviously in Australia we all know its a PITA to swap in a better higher torque handling gearbox for a 240 e.g. getting fox body T5 parts from the US... Other options are T56 and CD009 but are expensive and/or tunnel bashing, or W trans from Toyota using Dellow kits but would require upright mounting the red block (which is what I'm looking to do anyway based on the same reasons @Samman88 used).

Anyway to cut to the chase; Aisin AY6 6 speed gearbox' found in VZ to VF 3.6 Alloytec Commodores. Dime a dozen. Apparently can handle 468 N.m of torque (supposedly a figure posted by Aisin) which lets face it 99% of us Aussie's won't exceed with red blocks and is also approaching the apparent limit of stock internals.

I have never seen one in person nor operated one in a car so; can anyone comment on its usability in terms of how it shifts, its reliability? Can't be too bad with all the bogans abusing the shit out of em... How about the possibility of physically putting one behind a red block? It has a removable bell housing so can use an adapter plate and m46 bell housing. Can possibly modify shifter placement with home fab as shifter linkage is external. How about input shaft geometry?

I can see ratio's aren't very suitable:

4.48, 2.58, 1.63, 1.19, 1.00, 0.75

However, if you use a 4.10 or higher final drive and use it like a dog leg box (start in second) things don't look so bad...

Am I missing anything?

Jesos

Talk about a first gear that is as useless as tits on a bull

I thought the M46 and M47 were bad

Do some online research because they don't seem to have a good rap for durability and parts. Might be ok behind a N/A redblock though.

I've done some research. I would think considering there is less than a handful of complaints online (most of which centre around the hopeless first gear) compared to the vast amount of commos out there it couldn't be bad. Not to mention its use in other cars around the globe as well.

Sure there's better box' out there but in an effort to find something plentiful and potentially easy on home soil it's worth investigating.

Also worth mentioning, the stock 3.6 VE came with 282 hp and 350 Nm.

Toyota W trans doesnt require vertically mounting a redblock. The dellow bell housing is design for a slanted redblock.

If you wanted to do a vertical redblack with a W trans you would need to do a custom bell housing due to input shaft length. I investigated it in detail.

Input shaft length is a key factor in considering any transmission.

An r151 from a hilux with the 1GR motor for example has a long enough input shaft there is room to fit an adapter between it and a volvo bell housing.

Thats what I have done. Extensive transmission tunnel mods are required to make it fit.

The reason I assumed it was all upright was because the only bellhousing they advertise was for the pushrod motors which are all upright, yes?

There is a 151 being advertised on marketplace near me right now. The biggest benefit of this trans would be the strength.

I don't have a ay6 in front of me, but being speculative and going by the pictures it looks to have a deep bellhousing. Makes me think the input shaft is long enough.

You're a brave man if you're considering being the first to fit this gearbox.

I don't discourage people who think of new ideas, but why make life hard on yourself by not going for the tried and true borgwarner T5?

The rest of us will watch with interest.

I think its just a stuff up with their listing. The installation manual refers to the slanted motor and people definately have at least in the past got dellow bell housings to suit that. https://dellowconversions.com.au/product/bellhousing-manual-volvo-b18-20-to-toyota-supra-w-series-5-speed/

An expensive route but in theory if someome brought a bell housing for a slanted redblock to w trans, it could be combined with this to adapt to an R trans. https://dellowconversions.com.au/product/gearbox-transmission-adaptor-toyota-hilux-surf-bunderra-g52-g56-r154/ G series and W series are the same bolt pattern.

Watch out with the R151. There are two different input shaft lengths. Only the one to suit the 1GR motor has a lng enough input shaft. I foumd out the hard way when the internet lied to me...

Strength and cheapness are the reasons i have gone with an r151. Though prices have almost doubled since i brought mine. Probably due to adapters like the above becoming available and increasing demand.

There may well be an R151 at allfourx4 in Kotara as they've got a Hilux V6 in for wrecking.

Do you know if it's the 2WD or 4WD box you need?

@ramrod rod the ay6 is cheaper and inferior but might be perfectly suitable for 99% of us. It could be a much more viable solution rather than sourcing parts overseas.

I was only throwing an idea around but at this point it's looking good to find out more info on input shaft specs. I will throw a post up of FB and maybe someone with a box might be nice enough to do some homework for me.

@VolvoHordz would you still have input shaft length requirements from bellhousing-box flange?

I think perhaps with the prices the Toyota boxes fetch these days the T5 probably comes out to be cheaper.

Although I'm forgetting the need to buy a high ratio rear end gear set which would further negate the benefits.

Not to mention having a bogus gear is a little bodgey...

A 190mm input shaft is the R trans to go for. The shorter ones are 160mm. With a 190mm shaft and a redblock bellhousing, it takes about a 22mm adapter off the top of my head.

R154 has a 190mm input shaft length as well and has better ratios. Though a lot more expensive.

There should be a heap of Hulux 2wd boxes around. IIRC the diesel KUN16R box has good ratios and is a R156. 120kW turbo diesel with a 2.5T towing capacity. Body weighs around 1.6T. Mine is still good at 300,000k.

Heap of hilux boxes around, but as above, the only ones useful for adapting to a redblock are to suit a 1GR motor. Being the 4.0L petrol. The smaller petrol and diesel motors have a shorter input shaft length.

Input shaft length aside, they also have a shorter 1st gear ratio. Great for getting big loads moving as you say, but not exactly a more race orientated gear ratio spread. The box to suit a 1GR motor has more suitable ratios, though still not great.

I'd get a V8 T5, 2.95:1 first gear ideal for 3.73:1 axle and gear ratios closer together for more G's after shifting

Are you sure about the bellhousing? From the photos I can see online, it looks like the bellhousing is also the front part of the case.

If that is correct, then I would abandon the idea now.

If it is incorrect, then your idea has merit. Looks like the input shaft is plenty long enough - possibly even so long that the adapter plate will need to be very thick.

———

4.1s with a 2.58 “first” gear won’t be pleasant in traffic or when the car is heavily loaded. Especially if you have big OD wheels.

The BMW rally car with a 4.45 diff doesn’t like (2.49:1) second gear starts on 205/60R15s.

I would expect that you’d end up using 1st to get the car moving and then immediately shift to second. It would kill any of the usual 0-100kph type of times and would probably be irritating, but the rest of the ratios would be lovely on a windy road.

———

W5x boxes and their derivatives were a good choice 25 years ago. They are now way overpriced relative to their ability to survive and their availability.

I wouldn’t go down that path in 2020.

———

Have you looked at the BMW ZF box or E8x/E9x 6-speed? Physically compact boxes, remote shifter, adapter plates available to suit Redblocks and Whiteblocks.

The ZF box is pretty much indestructible. The 6-speed is less so, but definitely MUCH better than the BMW Getrag or M46/47.

Not positive on the bellhousing. From the photos I saw it looked like they are seperate.

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I have been reading up on the T5 conversions. My bad memory was telling me both Falcon and Commodore t5's were too long, however it seems the Falcon does just fit, maybe some mods to the floor opening? With this in mind, importing only the input shaft isn't that big of a deal.

Idk, the more I think about it the more the T5 remains to be seen as the most viable. Changing diff ratios only to still have pita first gears is troublesome. What is the lowest ratio we can fit in the Volvo diffs?

4.1:1 if talking factory fitted, aftermarket not sure

    Issues to consider when making a replacement gearbox choice -

    How much torque do you plan to ultimately put through the thing?What is your budget?If a kit isn't available off the shelf, what is your personal skill level - i.e. are you proficient at precision fitting / machining so you can make your own adapter plate if necessary, or would you need to farm that work out to a shop?What's the spare parts availability like for the gearbox you choose?

    A T5 conversion is going to be the least expensive and least hassle option, IMHO. For a 240, getting an ex-Holden VN - VS or EA Ford T5 and fitting the appropriate length input shaft (depending on the number of teeth, which I forget off the top of my head, but is written in the long T5 thread here on Oz Volvo along with part numbers,, measurements, etc) to fit the DeeWorks / Yoshifab kit is not as much hassle as other choices. That plate is drilled for both upright and slant configuration.

    "Fox body" T5 parts? I'm old fashioned; I like part numbers, because with T5s, it's a bit like saying to a parts person that you want a LH headlight for a Volvo 240, there are many variations. It shouldn't be a problem getting T5 stuff ex-US if necessary, but being in Brisbane, you're not physically far** from Mal Wood Automotive, who is Mister Tremec for Australia. I'm in the process of getting a 'T5 Frankenbox' together, which is part BA Turbo, part EA, using the V8-type main case, gearset, cluster, and input shaft but having an EA-type extension housing, top plate, and shifter assembly, together with a cluster reinforcement plate for strength and longevity, so it will happily fit in my 142 16v+t project and should not fail. I also have an ex-EA 6-pot box swap planned for my B20B 144, which won't need to be as bulletproof.

    Have you examined an AY6 physically? I've only seen pics online, but my observations tally with Spac's, i.e. the bellhousing appears to be integrated with the main case. It might be worth doing a personal inspection of a box with measuring tape in hand, either with a unit for sale on Gumtree etc or at a wreckers' yard.

    One option not discussed here yet is the Tremec TR6060 box, which is essentially the OE version of the T56 Magnum. The T56 Magnum / 6060 is not the same box as a T56, however the T56 Magnum and the 6060 are essentially the same box, just with different shifter and mid-plate arrangements. The T56M / 6060 has the advantages of being a lot stronger than a T5 (even the 6 cylinder versions), of having good ratios to suit a short diff, an extra gear, and of being available from wreckers, etc, but I am not sure about the availability of suitable input shaft lengths to suit a conversion using an M45 bellhousing - AFAIK there's not as many input shaft sizes available for them as there are for the T5. It might be possible to use an old BW35 / BW55 bellhousing with an adapter plate to fit one (shorter than M46 face to face), but that comes down to having a box on hand to do the measurements, and if it's plausible, then having the skills and abilities for precision measurement and machining to make the plate. If I had those skills, and if I was not so far down the path with the Frankenbox T5, this swap would be one I'd seriously consider.

    ** Well, closer than me at least, and I'm ordering my T5 bits from Mal.

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