I think I'm in the market for an 850/S70, as I have started to take a liking to them. Would have to be extremely cheap (sub $1000) and close to Brisbane for me to seriously entertain the idea. Manual would be prefered but I can deal with an auto, condition doesn't bother me too much as long as it is mechanically ok.
Edit: forgot to add, needs to be 20V and N/A.
This one with no rego , 190K and accident damage (by look of different colour panels) is worth scrap value only just about anywhere. If it had decent or even SOME rego it would still only be $250-350.
The costs of getting registered , unkowns like suspension , steering bushes , can belt and water pump needs done , pcv will need done. Radiator and heater plastic will be shot as will the hoses and coolant reservoir.
Factor in $2000 if you fix all of above to make it worthwhile .
IF it had all services and maintenance done and had rego , maybe $500 maximum.
Ask what @Pom has in the yard , you may find a great bargain worth getting delivered or look at Manheim Auctions.
this one has been up for a while.
unless you are specifically after a sedan... and I have no idea if it is a 10v or 20v
10v are not bad so don't rule it out if it is. @paddlered can attest to 8v goodess.
10v na is imho better Then 20v na to live with
I would prefer a sedan @rob, not much of a wagon fan unfortunately, plus from what I read the is almost 100kg difference between the two.
I thought there was a sizeable difference in power between 10 & 20 valve engines? What makes the 10v so much more bearable @philia_bear?
That is actually a bonus @Raebird , wagons tend to be more expensive and more sought after.
A manual will be hard to find though... You will have to be patient if you want a cheap manual sedan, especially if you want a 20V, most of the manual sedans I have seen are 10V.
I know of a great s70t5 very cheap down here , if you don't want turbo I will swap you a 160K 20 valve NA motor for the T5 one , take it home and register as an NA....
10V has a different torque distribution to the 20V; the 10 has it's power about 1000rpm lower on the whole, so doesn't need revving in the same way that the 20V does.
However, you do lose a couple of killer wasps, but it's really not that noticeable having driven both the 2.5 20v and the 2.5 10v.
Which would I go for? I liked my late V70 with the 2.5 20v, and a manual gearbox, BUT the if I was to do it again I'd probably get an auto, as there is no expensive clutch to sort out. However,the RMS is sensitive to the PCV being blocked...
if just commuting the lower torque of the 10v is easily noticed
It's also IIRC non interference... and because the head is literally smaller you have more room to work in the engine bay
The PCV clogs like every volvo ever... but is easy to sort out
Just found a manual one on gumtree but it's in WA damnit.
I know Mark has lots of cars , why not get a deal from him , at least you know what you are getting into , they check the cars out.
The problem is transport back to Brisbane, I don't really want to spend more money on getting the car back to Brisbane than it cost me to buy the car in the first place. I could get a permit and drive one back but I'm not sure when I will have the time. Besides I'm not in a huge rush to get one, I can wait for the right car to appear. Plus I'm currently still spending money on the 360, so it's no big deal.