Solutions for 240 Series Problems--ATC Style Fuse Panel, High Voltage Headlight Harnesses, More

Wagonmeister

Wagonmeister offers new, maintenance parts to help us keep our 240s on the road, and innovative solutions to upgrade systems for better performance. You can find our full list of items on the site at Wagonmeister.com

https://www.wagonmeister.com/

We are located about 70 miles north of Los Angeles. Shipping to Australia and New Zealand will be via USPS Priority, or Express International. Please feel free to contact us via the website for details or quotes, or via DM through this site. There's a Facebook page too, as well as an Instagram page under my name, David Samuels.

Our latest addition, the ATC Fuse Panel. Fits all 16 fuse 240s. Will fit the earlier cars with a change of the kick panel. $105 US, introductory price, plus shipping, through the end of April (sorry for late notice here). Includes fuses.

High voltage switching harnesses. Eliminate melted relays in your dashboard and get full voltage to your lights. We have harnesses that will work for "Euro", E-code lamps as well as multi-element headlights. Message for details! $179 US plus shipping.

Heater valve replacement kit: Works for "AC" style heater boxes only. $135 US plus shipping. We offer a retro fit hose to adapt our valve to the later, disc style valves on the firewall.

Snow caps, both late style and early (early are for left hand drive wipers), speaker cover adapter plates for 79-89 models, a full selection of LEDs for most positions in the cars, much more!

ATC style, upgrade fuse panel https://www.wagonmeister.com/volvo-240-replacement-fuse-panel

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

High Voltage "E-Code" Switching Harness for single H-4 each side

https://www.wagonmeister.com/highvoltageheadlightharnesses

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Replacement heater valve kit, with retrofit hose for disc style valves

https://www.wagonmeister.com/240-replacement-heater-valve

Wagonmeister has been servicing 240s and the larger Volvo community with parts, service, refurbishing and full restoration for over fifteen years. All of our parts are not only sold internationally, but installed regularly here at our facility in Quartz Hill, California. Proven solutions, backed by excellent customer service.

Wagonmeister laser cut 240 key rings too...

https://www.wagonmeister.com/volvo-240-laser-cut-stainless-key-r

Thanks for the space and time!

Ghettobird

The fuse panel looks like a great way to eliminate the old ceramic fuses.

It looks 3D printed, how do they fair with heat?

The headlight looms, do they piggyback off the original headlight loom for switching & have their own 12V hookup to the battery?

Had an eye on your stuff for a long while now, really nice stuff!

DavidSamuels

Thanks, Julian.

Fuse panel is not 3d. Very nice part it is! Installed the first one in my wagon, which has half a dozen extra circuits plumbed through it. Been in there for two months, no problems, and no gymnastics to twirl fuses while one is driving (which would REALLY be a feat with RHD!). Have already installed five here at the shop for customers. Wonderful upgrade.

Headlight harnesses have two fuse holders, one for low and one for high beam (where applicable) with separate relays and supply lines. Depending on the car, I'll get a BIG female spade lug and grab one of the "end" terminals in the junction box for both leads. I have had people tell me they go right to the battery, using the fuel pump attachment point on the positive cable. No question you can't get more direct than that. The harnesses use the original, left headlight plug (single or low beam) to control switching. I say "where applicable" on the high/low, because we've already made at least half a dozen custom kits for single rounds/squares and a couple of really wild LED setups too.

Please feel free to e-mail me directly from the website if need be.

Thanks again,

Dave

OldnDecrepit

I've done that headlight bypass too in my 164 and 740, and it does make a difference even after replacing the bulbs with better quality ones.

jamesinc

I don't suppose anyone here is interested in going in on some '75-'85 240 snow caps and splitting shipping? @VolvoHordz perchance?

https://www.wagonmeister.com/snow-cap-for-75-85-240

VolvoHordz

They available in RHD? I already have a LHD one. Eventually I was thinking about using that as the basis to make a few RHD ones.

jamesinc

VolvoHordz
They available in RHD? I already have a LHD one. Eventually I was thinking about using that as the basis to make a few RHD ones.

Ah from the photo I thought it cleared the wipers, but now that you mention it it does look like it has a cut-out :<

carnut222

I applaud wagonmeister for making these, but the disappointing thing is they have visible screw attachments. My dad bought some of the later-style (high-cowl) ones for his 240. IMHO the quality wasn't great (in fact I think he had to send the first set back). Given it's probably the only source, I guess it's better than nothing. I wonder what happened to the original tooling for these? Too bad GCP didn't pick it up and remanufacture them! :(

DavidSamuels

Hi! Wagonmeister here. Always happy to receive feedback on the snow caps and any other product I make. And....as we all love talking Volvo parts as much as Volvos, I'll weigh in, if I may. First, I have to say thanks to all the customers who support these products. I wish our shipping to Australia and NZ was more reasonable on larger items, but the later snow caps and the fuse panel seem to be popular, as they are smaller.

The early snow cap project was the result of a highway incident. My snow cap apparently snapped a pylon clip. I remember seeing it flap in the wind for just a few seconds, before it came completely loose and flew off. Sadly it struck the windshield of the truck behind me. I was worried that was going to be a problem, but apparently there was no damage. What's more, the driver gave me a toot of his horn and waved out his window. It was then I noticed it was a Volvo semi. As it was the second cap I'd lost, I determined to solve the mounting problem and create a stronger cap overall.

Concerning fit: The early snow caps are indeed designed for left hand drive (right hand traffic) so the "let" for the wiper is on the wrong side for RHD vehicles. I've sold, perhaps, a dozen to Australia and New Zealand over the many years I've been building these. I assume the owners have modified them to suit.

Concerning the mounting: Originally, I made these with three, stainless steel pylons, molded into the fiberglass. These snapped into the cowl vent holes just like the originals did. While very sturdy, I found a lot of people complained about chipping paint, and in fact they were so solid, people had trouble getting all three pylons to clip in. When I re-created the later snow caps, the primary focus was to do away with the silly plastic clips Volvo used on those. The current anchors, that utilize a screw through the top, are a simple and very solid solution, so I integrated those into the early snow cap as well, replacing the outer pylons. The screws are flat head, and fit into countersunk holes in the caps. I've never received a complaint about them until now, as they are such an easy and solid system, that people are willing to deal with the minor visual aspect. However a lot of my customers cover the fasteners. I've heard of everything from RTV, to body filler, caulking paste, touch up paint....I've even had people say they've used self adhesive, "dot" labels to cover the screws. This is aside from the people who have permanently bonded the caps to their cars and finished them in body color.

A few years ago, I had a gentleman complain about the finish on an early snow cap--it went to Eastern Europe. These have always been sold as an 'unfinished' part. I could never sell them for the price I do if they were either gel coated, or completely bodyworked and finished. Some of my customers opt for the texture coat I offer, which hides most of the minor imperfections, but most install them just as is. I did recently make a new mold for the early cap, and a new techniqe or two is resulting in a nicer "unfinished" finish on all the caps. I've only shipped one replacement for finish problems, in ten years or so, and one was returned for fit problems related to a misaligned pylon, when they still had three. A replacement was shipped no charge on that. We've had no fit returns since, and only the one replaced for finish concerns. I think I once replaced a set of the late caps for finish concerns as well. I'm committed to customer service in all respects.

As to durability, I have four of the early snow caps here, Volvo units, on the shelf. One is in perfect shape and we used that to make the original mold, as well as the new mold earlier this year. All of the others have broken pylons, are cracked in the body--or are so weathered as to be unusable. The hard, plastic surface seems to last about four years here in our hot sun before it gets chalky and starts to chip and crack. My fiberglass caps are much, MUCH thicker and heavier than the original, thermoformed plastic caps, much stiffer. We have several of them that have been baking in our desert sun, on our cars, for as much as ten years now. No cracks. The one on my 82 GLT is from the very first production run, and that car lives outside all year long. Likewise, I have a set of later caps on my 91 from the original production run....probably about 8 years old.

Very best to all,

Dave, the Wagonmeister

carnut222

DavidSamuels
Hi! Wagonmeister here. Always happy to receive feedback on the snow caps and any other product I make. And....as we all love talking Volvo parts as much as Volvos, I'll weigh in, if I may. First, I have to say thanks to all the customers who support these products. I wish our shipping to Australia and NZ was more reasonable on larger items, but the later snow caps and the fuse panel seem to be popular, as they are smaller.
The early snow cap project was the result of a highway incident. My snow cap apparently snapped a pylon clip. I remember seeing it flap in the wind for just a few seconds, before it came completely loose and flew off. Sadly it struck the windshield of the truck behind me. I was worried that was going to be a problem, but apparently there was no damage. What's more, the driver gave me a toot of his horn and waved out his window. It was then I noticed it was a Volvo semi. As it was the second cap I'd lost, I determined to solve the mounting problem and create a stronger cap overall.
Concerning fit: The early snow caps are indeed designed for left hand drive (right hand traffic) so the "let" for the wiper is on the wrong side for RHD vehicles. I've sold, perhaps, a dozen to Australia and New Zealand over the many years I've been building these. I assume the owners have modified them to suit.
Concerning the mounting: Originally, I made these with three, stainless steel pylons, molded into the fiberglass. These snapped into the cowl vent holes just like the originals did. While very sturdy, I found a lot of people complained about chipping paint, and in fact they were so solid, people had trouble getting all three pylons to clip in. When I re-created the later snow caps, the primary focus was to do away with the silly plastic clips Volvo used on those. The current anchors, that utilize a screw through the top, are a simple and very solid solution, so I integrated those into the early snow cap as well, replacing the outer pylons. The screws are flat head, and fit into countersunk holes in the caps. I've never received a complaint about them until now, as they are such an easy and solid system, that people are willing to deal with the minor visual aspect. However a lot of my customers cover the fasteners. I've heard of everything from RTV, to body filler, caulking paste, touch up paint....I've even had people say they've used self adhesive, "dot" labels to cover the screws. This is aside from the people who have permanently bonded the caps to their cars and finished them in body color.
A few years ago, I had a gentleman complain about the finish on an early snow cap--it went to Eastern Europe. These have always been sold as an 'unfinished' part. I could never sell them for the price I do if they were either gel coated, or completely bodyworked and finished. Some of my customers opt for the texture coat I offer, which hides most of the minor imperfections, but most install them just as is. I did recently make a new mold for the early cap, and a new techniqe or two is resulting in a nicer "unfinished" finish on all the caps. I've only shipped one replacement for finish problems, in ten years or so, and one was returned for fit problems related to a misaligned pylon, when they still had three. A replacement was shipped no charge on that. We've had no fit returns since, and only the one replaced for finish concerns. I think I once replaced a set of the late caps for finish concerns as well. I'm committed to customer service in all respects.
As to durability, I have four of the early snow caps here, Volvo units, on the shelf. One is in perfect shape and we used that to make the original mold, as well as the new mold earlier this year. All of the others have broken pylons, are cracked in the body--or are so weathered as to be unusable. The hard, plastic surface seems to last about four years here in our hot sun before it gets chalky and starts to chip and crack. My fiberglass caps are much, MUCH thicker and heavier than the original, thermoformed plastic caps, much stiffer. We have several of them that have been baking in our desert sun, on our cars, for as much as ten years now. No cracks. The one on my 82 GLT is from the very first production run, and that car lives outside all year long. Likewise, I have a set of later caps on my 91 from the original production run....probably about 8 years old.
Very best to all,
Dave, the Wagonmeister

Hi David. Thanks for the detailed reply and I apologise for the somewhat petty complaints about the visible screw fasteners and fiberglass surface finish. I hadn't thought about options to hide the screw heads. It sounds like you've come up with some options to make them less visible. As I said, I appreciate your efforts to support our older cars with re-manufactured products, and I now understand the reasons for the revised design (easier install/remove and durability).

Regards,

Greg