I think its spun a big end

Cam205 · 2020-02-17T22:33:34+00:00

You say it chugged a whole bunch of smoke and now its knocking? How sure are you that it hasnt ingested a whole bunch of oil from the valvetrain or the turbo...

Dauntless

I suspect it was leaking compression into the coolant via the corroded out water jacket, pressurising the coolant. Hopefully it can be fixed by simply machining it down a bit, if it's much deeper than .020" you may need to look at options.

Now you've pointed out #4 is the wet cylinder, I can see #1 piston also looks more sooted up than I'd expect. What is your breather setup? Did you do a compression test recently? What plugs were you running?

Spac

Put the motor 90* off TDC, and then gently rock the crank back and forward while carefully watching the pistons. You can sometimes see the piston attached to the crook rod bearing have a slight lag compared to the others.

Also interested to know what this is about:

On my phone, it appears to be a bunch of aluminium melted onto the bore wall.

Slowbrick

Spac
Put the motor 90* off TDC, and then gently rock the crank back and forward while carefully watching the pistons. You can sometimes see the piston attached to the crook rod bearing have a slight lag compared to the others.
Also interested to know what this is about:
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/147/I69PARLSMH7C.png
On my phone, it appears to be a bunch of aluminium melted onto the bore wall.

I looks like how my WR cylinder looked when the piston skirt broke and drew aluminium crayon everywhere.

Cam205

Ive been looking at the soot on 1 and 4 and have come to the conclusion that its the way the manifold disturbes the air. An inherent design of it?

Theres no fire trap connected. It runs a catch can of sorts and does no go back to the manifold. It breaths a little but theres not much if any oil in the can. I have a suspicion the turbo seals are leaking internally as there is a small amount of oil build up on the bottom of the intake hoses before and a little after the intercooler.

The one oddity is that when you look at the inlet manifold itself down the runner of cyl 4 there is alot more build up around the injector compared to the others. Ill get a photo later. It has a clear and distinct difference. Lack of fuel vapour cleaning the walls of the port so to speak. Inside the port on the head it looks just the same as the others.

I was running brp5es and went to a 7es and want to go in-between to 6es. The 5 were running to hot with the extra boost. Showed up signs of det on a couple if them, well the early stages of it anyway. The 7 are too cold, sluggish off boost comparatively but smooth on boost. The 6 should be the sweet spot.

I still dont see any sure signs of head gasket failure and both oil and coolent were very clean.

Ive come to a halt today stuck on the top bolt for the starter. Cant find my uni joint so back to the tool shop in the morning.

Looking forward to getting at the bearing shells and the pistons themselves!

Cam205

Compression was stable across the all 4 last time I checked about 2 months ago when I thought it had an issue of sorts. It puffed smoke that morning also.

Its never run right I dont believe. Its had a slight miss at idle even before the turbo was fitted. Its worse in the mornings when cold obviously and comes and goes.

That to me rules out injectors, plugs and the AMM for that. I also changed all the gaskets in case of air leaks.

Ahh ranting on now.

Cam205

No no melted aluminium.

Its just a bad photo/reflection of something. All those areas are covered in soot of sorts.

Dauntless

Interesting. Can you get a photo of the intake manifold ports, and some more of the camshaft lobes? What injectors are you running? And have they been flow/spray tested? Was the FPR ever replaced?

I think at this point I'd be pulling the bottom end apart for inspection.

Cam205

injectors were orange top from an 850 and tested to be ok. Fpr was changed for 3.5 bar which is the same as the 940 motor.

Will get a bunch of photos tomorrow. Have to duck out for the evening.

Ive been offered another 940s motor that can essentially ( once its been run and ive comp tested it etc) can be dropped in while I get the fx motor rebuilt.

Car needs to be on the road sooner than later.

Cam205

Will pull the block out tomorrow and cant wait to get it apart.

Slowbrick

So what happened?

Inquiring mind wanna know

https://youtu.be/MKL5nuAh11Y?t=120

Philia_Bear

Factory 940 turbo is 3 bar

Philia_Bear

I'm assuming this was a f+t conversion if your using 850 injectors on a turbo motor? or did you swap the injectors for some other reason?

I'm just wondering if there is still a resistor pack in the wiring harness when there should not be

Cam205

Yea Ive also seen it quoted at 4.5 psi. I run about 10 through the same setup in theb940.

3 Bar would be way too high for a 13c.

Philia_Bear

Cam205
Yea Ive also seen it quoted at 4.5 psi. I run about 10 through the same setup in theb940.
3 Bar would be way too high for a 13c.

3bar is 45psi and we are talking fuel pressure not intake pressure

Boost wise, the fk motors ran 4.5to 5psi stock and ft motors ran 7to8psi stock

I've now seen a 13c used in a sequential setup with a t4 turbo on a diesel build that did run 3bar of boost

Cam205

Thanks for the clarity.

Cam205

Ok. Got the last 18mm bolt off (top starter bolt). Was dreading this job but it was fine with 2.5 extentions, 3/8 uni joint and a breaker bar.

So the block is now clear to come out. Went to my mates place to pick up the engine hoist and someone has pinched it!

So, reckon 2 blokes could pull the block out? Me thinks not. Anyone got a hoist I could borrow? Im in randwick/clovelly if that helps. I could buy another one but have 2 at my dads and Im moving to the US later this year so dont really want to fork out at this point.

So darn close!

ramrod

Save your back, ask kennards hire or someone if they have cranes

Cam205

Yep. Was thinking the same.

Samman88

It's definitely doable with 2 guys and no hoist but it's messy. The trick is to remove the rad, grille, bonnet support and horn support. One guy with a foot on each strut tower with a strap around the rear of the block and his shoulders lifts, and the other on the crank pulley at the front guides it out over the bumper. But probably wisest to save your back given the option.

Cam205

Ok. Got it out. Volvo engine mounts are a shit design. Rant over.

Its fucked.

Lots of particles in the bottom of the sump, sandy metal or the likes.

All big ends are worn some are multi coloured from the heat/wear. All piston ring lands are fine but totally junked up with dried up oil sludge. Its a miracle that it was running. Pistons at first glance look pretty good and have no ware marks on the sides, I dont know how. Theres is evidence of oil getting to the bores so thats obviously why.

All crank bearings have marks on them of some sort. Not as bad as the big ends but light scoring and the beginnings of more serious wear. It will definitely need a polish or even a very light grind.

Im yet to get photos as my phone camera is broken and the missus has the camera.

Im working in a single undercover outdoor spot and is proving that

A. im too old for this shit in this situation.

B. I really need to find my engine stand!!

I found getting the engine out itself much harder than if the transmission was attached. It really didnt want to come away from the tranny. I needed a crowbar and a lot of force to get it moving. Not looking forward to putting it back in!

Will get photos later. In the mean time Ill get some buckets and degreaser to get everything clean to have a better look. I cant believe how much grit was in the sump and piston rings/oil ring etc. It really looks like its never had the oil replaced before I got it. Gunk everywhere it could find a spot to lay up.

Anyhoo, off for a shower to clean off, have a cup of tea and then back into it.

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