144 lower wishbones

jrhendo

For a anybody know anything about these? I damaged one so went through the collection for a replacement. Here are the numbers stamped into them:

73415 (two of these)

73104 (two)

74135

And 2 with nothing.

They look identical. Any ideas?

242GT

Possibly represent model eg: 142,144,145....

Or early models such as 1968 versus later early 1970s models which are different in the trailing arms, not sure about wish bones though

egads (she/her)

Difference in reinforcing maybe? I think that changed over the years in the 140's

242GT

Possibly, I know from back in the days I was racing , that the early race blokes used to weld strips of flat plate over the horse shoe pressings in the wishe bones to strengthen them.

I used to machine up 19 & 22mm spaces for the lower wish bone location bolts to give 3.5 degrees of negative camber with brand new 8.8 longer bolts instead of useing heaps of washers.

242GT

Perhaps pass a steel rod through the wishbone bush ends, hang the ball joint downwards and compare where the centre lines are to see if there is any physical difference in position created by the pressing of the wishbone shape.

You could also do this and lay the wish bones out on a piece of cardboard and compare the centre lines at 90 degrees to each other to check any difference in offset.

Allowing for the difference between a left and right wishbone.

jrhendo

I’ve welded flat plate in the lower wishbones to strengthen them, but never bothered with the top. My rationale was they’re both made from ~3mm steel and the top is much shorter so should be strong enough.

Having an upper ball joint come loose made me think about how to retain it without welding it in because that would make it a bugger to replace on a rally. So yesterday I reinforced the front and sides of an upper wishbone to spread the load and then welded threaded rod vertically on either side of the ball joint. The plan was to put a bar over the ball joint and bolt it down on the threaded rods.

While the welder was out, I welded flat strip down either side, like the lower wishbones, all in the name of strength.

Then I weighed it. Bare original arm: 1.25kg. Bare reinforced arm: 1.8kg, including the bar and nuts! And I’m trying to lose weight in the car!

Back to the drawing board.

jrhendo

PS did you mean spacers in the UPPER wishbone location bolts?

jrhendo

Is there a difference between right and left wishbones? I’ve always put them back where I found them but never checked.

You’ve got me worried! I’m off to the shed to check right now.

jrhendo

Careful eyeballing says they're the same. I think the lowers are also the same except for the sway bar joint being on opposite sides.

Major Ledfoot

jrhendo
Careful eyeballing says they're the same. I think the lowers are also the same except for the sway bar joint being on opposite sides.

That sway bar joint on the lower wishbone is one bit that does need extra welding and reinforcing.

That joint is known to crack when a larger than standard front sway bar is used.

As far as the lower wishbones go -

The 1973 parts catalog shows four different part numbers for upper wishbones - 684765, 684766, 684767, and 684768.

The first two of these take the 683756-1 bushings.

The 684768 lower wishbone won't accept the 675085-5 "Alt 2" ball socket; all the other will.

The latter two of these take the 683267-9 rubber bushings where they attach to the crossmember.

242GT

There maybe difference between right and left to create/help with wheel alignment, I can't remember it's been over 20yrs since I did mine.

You possibly make up a square horse shoe shaped bracket that bolts up the side of the ball joint position.

242GT

Aah yes that's how u tell, I forgot sorry. Have you done the 164 vented disc conversion.

jrhendo

Done the 164 conversion on a couple of my 140's. On the rally car I used 144 calipers with spacers to get the bigger pad. Feels better. No idea why Volvo thought the heavier 164 wanted smaller pads.

jrhendo

You’re a fount of information!