Slowbrick
As per the title I am hating on LH2.2.
Basically what I have is a LH2.2 +T 240 which refuses to run. I've tried just about everything and I cannot get it to keep running. Things i have tried.
-Replaced dizzy with known good hall effect.
-Replaced powerstage
-Replaced fuel pump with a 044
-Checked wiring and cannot see anything abnormal.
-Tried 3 different fuel pump relays.
I'm at the point where the car will start sometimes and will run for a random period of time which may be as short as 5 seconds to as long as half an hour. It revs fine. Comes onto boost and doesnt make any strange noises it didn't make before. When it stalls I check for spark and fuel and its all there. By turning the dizzy im able to get the hall effect to pickup and i can hear the injectors priming and the coil gives off one spark. It doesn't bog or hunt before it stalls it just stops dead like someone has turned off the key. It will then refuse to start with just cranking and not stumbling or anything. I'm at a loss with what to do next...
Tigabu
Random.
Does it have a hugely blocked EGR box or associated piping?
Is it building up a vacuum lock from the fuel tank?
Is it possessed by Joe Hockey?
Ex850R
Fuel pump , fuel lines? Injector seals?
Slowbrick
Ex850R;19686 wroteFuel pump , fuel lines? Injector seals?
Replaced the pump with a 044 which runs. Fuel lines were blown out before reassembly. Injector seals are newish but I suppose I can get some more. Strange thing is that when I crank and crank the plugs arent getting wet which signals to me it could be fuel related. I still have spark and I still get fuel but something tells me the injectors arent firing. Perhaps I should build a noid light...
Jim
LH2.4 disables fuel when there is no spark as a safety measure, not sure if 2.2 also does this - could explain the dry plugs and point back at the ignition system.
044s put out a metric fuckload of fuel (I have one in a non-Volvo), could the change in fuel pressure/rate be confusing things?
Edit: Have you chipped/changed ecus? As I believe the MAFs are not compatible between 240 LH2.2 and 740 LH2.2.
jamesinc
Maybe your ECU is boned.
Vee_Que
I'd be looking at the hall effect still. I've had nothing but issues with wiring from that area. Though if it's when it heats up it can be wiringthat is thin. Put a multmultimeter in series with plugs and check the power through. Resistance checks won't show it up as tiny strands can still work. Check leads too.
Slowbrick
Jim. LH2.2 disables fuel if there is no spark as the spark signal is produced by the hall effect. I still have spark when it conks and still have fuel. When its running it doesn't smell rich or out of sorts so I don't think the 044 has upset anything.
VQ. When I turn the dizzy I'm able to activate the hall effect as I can hear the injectors open and the coil fires.
Perhaps I need to build a noid light and see if the injectors are firing. One thing I did notice today was when I got it started the injectors were very audible much more so than they have ever been. Strange
nickm
Radio suppression relay (injector relay) under the bonnet.. It supplies voltage for the injectors.
Grab a cheap logic probe from jaycar or the like. You can see pulses.
Slowbrick
240s don't gave the suppression relay unfortunately for me :(
Perhaps one of the injectors is bung? Tomorrow I'll try unplugging them one by one while having a noid attached to see what happens.
nickm
Have you tried ether into the throttle body to verify spark or fuel?
You can probe at the ECU and EZK. Seeing the hall sensor, injector. Throttle switches. Check grounds and voltage very easily
Slowbrick
I haven't put in ether but I pulled the rail and got two pulses from the injectors and when I put them back it started for about 3 seconds from what I'm assuming to be the fuel spray from the injectors. I have an ICU and ecu on the way from Sydney so hopefully between now and when they arrive I can find out the real issue.
nickm
Try some start you bastard. Takes out other issues.
Put the probe on the injector pin on the ECU watch for pluse on cranking.
The other way is to quickly ground the injectors at the ecu's injector pin. The motor should fire. As you have forced the injectors open for a small time.
Remember there is a constant 12v to the injector it fires by the ECU completing the circuit to ground.
Slowbrick
The injector pin is pin 18 if I'm not mistaken? If I can get it to catch everytime by manually grounding it then it means a possible bad ground or a dead ecu?
jamesinc
I still think you should just convert to LH-2.4
nickm
Pin 13.
And yes. Or 12v supply but it narrows down your need to throw parts the problem
Slowbrick
Cheers Nick. Ill grab a multimeter and probe today and see what I come up with!
Slowbrick
Ok so I have news. Together with the combined power of Brendan on speakerphone and a multimeter we may have found part of the issue. I noticed that the power feed to the coil is only giving me 7 volts instead of 12. Brendan went and checked on one of his cars and he gets a full 12 volts. He suggested to move the feed from fuse 10 to fuse 11 as it has less load and the car fired right up. Still 7 volts but it started and ran for considerably longer than before. It cut out and after several attempts I was able to get it to start. Wiring the coil to 12v from the battery I was able to get it to start without issue. While running I had 13.47 volts at the coil and it didnt seem to fluctuate much. Also I noticed the coil was burning hot when the car died and im under the impression it shouldn't be. So I suppose I need to trace the feed and find out what is causing the low voltage which may be the key to success?
egads (she/her)
Hurrah, coil!
jamesinc
Coil story bro.
