All matters 360 GLT

Laurie · 2019-05-25T14:38:30+00:00

History of the Volvo 340 (Daf 77) During the 1960’s Daf had plans to develop a larger car. Some sketches and mock-ups were made by Daf and Michelotti. There...

Laurie

This photo shows the cause why the 360 recently failed to proceed being the second mechanical failure in 860000km. Went to start it the other morning and heard a strange scratching sound from the engine room. Nothing happened. Soon found that there no spark due to the fact that the dizzy cap was in pieces and the rotor was gone. Apparently the spring loaded rev limiter had given up destroying everything. Had spares so the car was going in a few minutes.

LachlanW

Another volvo 360 on the road, been driving it for a week and what a fun little car

Laurie

Hi Lachlan,

Welcome to the 360 group. You have a neat car and if you look after it you should have many years of satisfying motoring. If you have any queries about maintenance etc don't forget to ask for advice on this forum.

How a few more photos?

Laurie

iceton1975

I have 2 one a hatch and one sedan 360 Turbo with 740 engine and loom and the other B200 carby soon to be 16V

iceton1975

Here is the Turbo one getting a full respray and some minor surface rust sorted

Laurie

Oi Mark, when is the 360 going to make an appearance? At least you should have a few weeks until the virus rules are relaxed. L

360beast

Good to see the 300 series getting some love!

I learnt to drive at 15 in a 1986 360 GLE injection saloon.

I have had that one.

A 1984 360 GLE carb saloon I sold.

Now own a 1986 360 GLE injection special equipment saloon, air con, leather seats, ambient air temp gauge, economy gauge, genuine centre console gauge mount with volvo oil pressure and voltmeter gauges, 80's heko/Volvo wind deflectors (still need to fit them), hella grille and snow trays. I've had it for nearly 8 years and spent 4 years restoring it as the salt on the roads in England kills cars. I think the roof and bonnet were the only panels that didn't need work doing to them! Only on 73k miles too.

I have a 1988 B230ET engine to go in it and I will be fully polybushing it too, it runs 15x7 ATS cups on Bridgestone proenza adrenalin re002 tyres which are a bloody grippy tyre.

I have recently bought a 1986 360 GL carb 5 door hatchback which has only done 3k miles in the last 21 years and is a one family car until now on 91k miles.

carnut222

I’ll take the SAAB! :)

360beast

carnut222
I’ll take the SAAB! :)

That's my dad's 9000 2.0 turbo in the very rare colour of willow green. It is a low pressure turbo (150ish hp) with a stage one Jules Holland tune so it has 220hp.

It is on about 230k miles and is suffering from the usual rust in the rear arches and the front wings. My dad is now restoring it and adding some additions like the wooden anniversary steering wheel and I think he is looking in to a bigger turbo and 3" downpipe then retune.

iceton1975

Laurie

It looks fine sitting on the grass and that is all it is capable of doing. The bloody thing has dementia!. It won't respond to any stimulus to start. It is only capable of moving a few meters one way or the other on the starter motor and that is it.

The next and last item to check is the annular sensor and the wiring to the Rennix unit. Iinitially the ohm meter shows about 9 ohms which is in the ball park but after a few seconds the ohms begin to drop. Fortunately I have a replacement sensor (In a safe place somewhere) and wiring. On the other 360 the ohms remain steady at 9.8 ohms for as long as you want to look at the meter. This is only the second non starting problem this car has had in 867k. The other problem was when the rotor button shattered a few months ago. Oh well, that's motoring!

I hope it is not raining tomorrow.

ALVO360

She's beautiful!

Laurie

Finally found the spare sensor. It didn't work either so I pulled it apart. Found problem. One wire into the sender had fractured inside it's covering. But, if the wire was moved very slightly a connection was made just enough to keep things interesting. The movement in the engine when the starter was engaged was enough for the wires to make momentary contact, just enough to frustrate me no end.

I removed the sender off the car and it had the same problem, metal fatigue in one wire where where it entered the sender body. With the wires snipped off the sender, the meter showed good readings. I cut off some of the plastic housing from the sender and soldered on new wires. The sender was cleaned and encapsulated in a high temperature epoxy potting resin to keep moisture out. Yeh, it will more than likely go for another 35 years?

Laurie

All went well for six weeks and something went wrong with the crank sensor again. Checked it with the meter and it barely moved. With the 5km lockdown I couldn't do the rounds to find a replacement sender so I contacted a friend in Holland. He sent me a new Bosch unit all for $52 incl freight. It arrived in a week. The job now took me only five minutes to replace the sender. Practice makes perfect???? The car started as it should and has never idled smoother in years and will rev with ease with a nice exhaust note. The sender I repaired (resoldered the wires) has a very fine crack which let in moisture during rainy weather, possibly earthing it out to some extent as it is badly corroded inside.

Laurie

Read the post about Mike Minear's 360 in General. Very interesting.

My latest gripe is that three of 360s I own have had their batteries replaced in the last few months. None of the batteries were older than four years. Yes, they were maintained and were on a trickle charger for a few dars every couple of weeks during the lockdowns.

None of the batteries were made in Australia. The surviving battery is a seven year old made in Australia by Century Batteries. I expected that to to go first.

Now they all start at the first turn of the key and I trust will go anywhere I want them to go.

360beast

Were the batteries removed calcium batteries or traditional lead acid batteries? There is a bit of a discussion on this on the UK owners club forum in the 7/900 series section and people are finding that calcium batteries require a higher charge voltage than traditional lead acid batteries. These old alternators aren't capable of putting out the voltage required to charge a calcium battery properly so they die within a few years. It would be worth checking what type of battery you have, any mention of calcium technology and chances are it won't last more than a few years.

Ex850R

360beast
Were the batteries removed calcium batteries or traditional lead acid batteries? There is a bit of a discussion on this on the UK owners club forum in the 7/900 series section and people are finding that calcium batteries require a higher charge voltage than traditional lead acid batteries. These old alternators aren't capable of putting out the voltage required to charge a calcium battery properly so they die within a few years. It would be worth checking what type of battery you have, any mention of calcium technology and chances are it won't last more than a few years.

And conversely, modern Volvo that has an AGM battery as standard the alternator will slowly cook a lead acid type with higher output only suited to AGM, I recently had a flat battery and an expert battery sho service guy said the my old one wasn't AGM type which I I had completely missed!

Laurie

Thanks guys for the info. The dead batteries are all DIN 55. There is no mention of what type they are, lead acid or calcium on them. I suppose they are the traditional lead acid type.

I recon I rejuvenated two of them (for a while???). Time will tell though. Tipped them upside down with the plugs out and hosed a lot of corroded materiel out of them. Filled them up with the good mix of acid and water and charged them overnight. They both read 12.8 volts this morning and still do this arvo. One works ok in the car after three short trips to the shops. Had another charged battery in the boot just to save a walk home. I'll leave the cleaned out battery in the car as long as it lasts.

However, the big find was the that all the belts on one car were slipping badly due to the engine room being cleaned with degreaser six months ago. The car was not started 'till last week when the problems surfaced. Obviously the degreaser had softened the rubber on the belts during the lockdowns. Being well lubricated there was none of the typical belt squealing, rubber was being melted off the belts. The ignition light did not come on while the engine was running. Tip, when you use degreaser make sure it is hosed off everywhere, preferably with the engine running. Then do a few kilometres to make sure that everything is dry.

Now off to get a new set of belts including one for the a/c which was also stuffed.

Bloody cars!!!!!???

360RWD

Hi,

I'm getting this 360 back to a better , usable condition.

Who would I go to in melb to get some rust cut out, welded and fixed?

Also, I need to plastic weld the rear bumper. Anyone done that?

Philip

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