Hi all,
I'll put all the issues I'm having in one thread.

Issue 1: Unresponsive steering
There is a dead zone of around 30 degrees when the car is traveling straight. I can turn the steering wheel left/right and the car does not respond. This leads to the car not wanting to go around tight corners and trying to ram oncoming traffic. Does this sound rack related? One of the boots is leaking, there is no noticible pump noise, steering is light and not at all difficult...

Issue 2: Hard starting/accelerating/stalling when cold
When warm the car is fine however when starting from cold it stalls constantly. When accelerating nothing happens then the car jerks violently for a minute then accelerates. It stalls when stopping at traffic lights, however this all stops when it warms up. Could this be caused by

Issue 3: Low voltage
Voltage at the battery terminals is 11.3V at idle. I'm about to pull the alternator and check the wiring/brushes. Could a nearly dead alt cause the poor running? The jerking under acceleration feels like weak spark so.......

Issue 4: Leaking clutch slave
The clutch slave leaks when changing gears. Does this mean it needs replacing or could it be that I have adjusted the rod/fork incorrectly and the piston is being pushed too far out?

Issue 5: Part time instrument cluster
The speedo/tacho randomly stop working, then work/stop/work/stop/work and punching the cluster usually fixes this (or turns it completely off for the rest of the trip). Is this something common to 240s?

Issue 6: People keep calling me a Hipster for owning a 240.
Should I sacrifice them to Odin?
3 has a part to play in 5 and 2 so fix that to start with.

For 2, what year and injecion/carb does the car have? Is the hot flapper stiil in place? Is cold 0 degrees or 10??

1 sounds like play in the steering bits but not at all sure where to look first.

4, no idea, cable all the way baby!

6, send them to @jonbot and he willl have their corpses feasted upon by ravens. :-P
#4 - I'd say that that its an adjustment issue with the piston being pushed out to near the end of its stroke. I'd expect you'd have a permanent leak/dribble otherwise.
AshDVS;19473 wrote#4 - I'd say that that its an adjustment issue with the piston being pushed out to near the end of its stroke. I'd expect you'd have a permanent leak/dribble otherwise.
Yeah, but what about the piston leak?
:-\"
@egads,
It's an 89 LH2.4 B230F. The hot flapper is gone and the airbox capped. Cold starts are current Victorian mornings (maybe 10?) but really just anything where the car has not been run for the majority of the day.

That's pretty much where I'm at too Ash. I'll adjust the rod and see if it fixes it.
Look at the wiring to and the coolant temp sensor then. Any other ideas?
Cleaned the AMM and throttle body? They might help #2 a little
Shamefully I hadn't cleaned them yet Joe, had been meaning to for a while. You were spot on, thanks!





I cleaned the MAF whilst I was at it. The car now runs 90% better however instead of stalling at idle it now wants to idle at 1900 rpm, then up and down between 400rpm and 1900 rpm, and tries to launch to warp speed with any throttle input.

The tps is mounted fully rotated and the throttle stop looks maxed out so fixing these will hopefully fix most of this. Finding an air leak/replacing the IAC will hopefully fix the rest.
Yes, my limited knowledge could finally help someone!! :)
Does lh2.4 have an idle conrol valve? If sothat is probably your idle problem now.
egads;19759 wroteDoes lh2.4 have an idle conrol valve? If sothat is probably your idle problem now.
it does and it like to get full of black crap and stick

also the throttle plate should have a very small air gap at its closed position
240Joe;19757 wroteYes, my limited knowledge could finally help someone!! :)
Give that man a cookie!
He also brought my wheels down from Spac so he deserves more than a cookie, neenish tart maybe.
A_Volvo_Driver;19779 wrote
240Joe;19757 wroteYes, my limited knowledge could finally help someone!! :)
Give that man a cookie!
A green one, with white sprinklings
:D
Did you fit a new gasket after removing the throttle body?

The first one. Well I would be Checking all joints starting with the uni joints near the exhaust. What's it like when the engine is off? Much movement?

Clutch, it needs a rebuild or replacement.
@Vee_Que
No new gasket however one is on the way from FCP. TPS does not seem to be working so need to replace it.

Movement is pretty much non existent with engine off. All ball joints replaced, new Superpro bushes from front to rear, new tie rods, new Bilsteins, new centre support, new pretty much everything except steering rack. It went to Pedders and they said "I think the rack is buggered.... or it could be the wheel bearings, either way, best to replace the rack, $800 for a new rack and a few hundred in labor".... so they can take a boat to fuckoffidyland.
That's a point, lift the front end up and give the wheels bearings a shake, they are adjustable...
I just replaced the steering rack in my 240 because it was buggered. Was pissing oil out of the right boot. I took it to my trusty Volvo mech and he said that based on what I told him that the internal valve is probably munted. It explained why at speed the steering was super light but non responsive but when moving slow it was heavy and jarred. The pump made no noise but he said it was because the fluid would just be passing through the rack but because the valve isnt moving it wouldnt be providing any assistance. Idk but maybe something to think about?
dunno if it's the same for 240's but most other cars, with a wheel off the ground if you can wobble it vertically then that's wheel bearing, if it's sloppy side to side then that's rack/rack ends/tie rods.

if you've isolated it to be rack related, i'd start at the rack end and test each thing in order going in (ends first, then the tie rod swivels, then the rack itself.

i know when i had a pair of buggered tie rods i had nice light steering, but very indirect and a horrendous wobble when i loaded up the front (braking/down hills)