calvintibia001 Is it possible to swap the sump without removing the crossmember or lifting the engine out of the car ?
iceton1975 No, it would be easy just to unbolt the cross member and support the engine with engine crane so you have the clearance to remove the sump, don't for get the oil pump sits low in the sump.
nickm The cross member is far easier to drop than you think. From memory you don't need to fully remove it. Drop it down and rotate the sump out.
iceton1975 He is correct, don't pull it off the car let it hang with the shockers still on you only need about 4 inches to remove the sump, I have done it but doing it on a hoist, than axel stands
calvintibia001 Yeah, I am thinking of doing that way, I'll unbolt the engine mounts, engine hoist, drop the crossmember slightly and then get the oil sump. Actually, Will it be easier to drill and tap a fitting into the sump instead of swaping a sump that have a bung weld in already ?
calvintibia001 Vee_Que;18927 wroteSump is going to be easier if you have less skills. Drilling needs the sump off too. hmm, I'll swap the sump instead then, Couple of jack stand, an engine hoist, should do the job ? Do I need drop the crossmember the whole way ?
nickm from the volvo faq "Pump and Pan Replacement By Dropping Crossmember : Take off license plate and bracket so you don't make new holes in your body. Place car on jacks. Locate them on box frame just before the box slopes and becomes small, not on the frame crossmember. Take off belly pan. Unbolt sway bar at frame only. Undo steering shaft at U joints and slip upward. Remove negative cable from battery. Remove intake hose (turbo) from intercooler to intake manifold. Loosen power steering reservoir. Remove distributor cap and rotor. Clip tie holding hose to motor mount. Under engine, remove nuts and bolt from bottom of passenger (LHD) side motor mount. Remove entire motor mount series of bolts and nuts, 6 total. Snug up and lift slightly on engine jig. I used a nut to tighten and lift the hook eye connected to the lift hook on the thermostat housing. Unbolt the frame, 4 bolts. It will drop slightly. Undo bolts and remove the reinforcement plate between engine and bellhousing. Remove motor mount from the driver side. No need to remove actual rubber from metal portions. Unbolt oil pan, drop and rotate nose toward the driver side (this is why you remove the motor mount). Remove oil pump, replace with new one and new rubber O rings on feeder pipe. Lube rings with oil or Vaseline to help with reassembly. Carefully reassemble pump to block aligning pump driving shaft with driving shaft from engine. Clean pan and gasket leftovers. You can also replace your rod bearings if you want. I did on one of the cars---less than an extra $30 using a standard size. Reassemble."
nickm Edit... while you are doing this change the oil pickup seals yes or something to supprt the motor. You do not need to wheel it around. I used the RSJ in the garage. I have seen someone use 3 blocks of wood. Just a bunnings rachet strap is enough to support the motor. Have a look through this and you will see how he supported the motor. turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275940
240Joe You could go and buy this on sale. You won't get a much better price. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Engine-Crane-Folding-1250kg.aspx?pid=325607#Cross ...or hire one like this from a local place http://www.kerrshire.com.au/database/View_Item.asp?id=197&FldClass=
calvintibia001 I got a friend that have one, but that means driving all the way to his place (which is like 2 hours drive, but it should be worth it), only problem will be driving all the way back without an exhaust
Vee_Que You can buy engine holding frames as well for about $150, otherwise steel as wide as between the gaurds with weldied blocks to make it taller enough to be level with a 500kg ratchet strap on both engine hooks will do the job safely.
