I picked this up a few weeks ago, the idea being that it is replacing the 240 as my daily driver.

It's an MY13, T5, R-Design, Manual (M66), with the Polestar tune and exhaust, topped off by the fact that it's in Rebel Blue. Only other thing I would have liked is a sunroof, but the chances are small of another one the same coming up for sale that ticks as many boxes as this, so I jumped on it.

It's pretty well spec'd, with heated seats, Bluetooth calls & audio, auto active bending headlights, etc. Plus the cosmetic improvements that you get with the R-design.

It has about 170,000km but runs perfectly and still feels very tight to drive. There are a few small chips and scratches but nothing I can't live with, so happy with it overall. As a bonus, the previous owner fitted black aftermarket wheels which suit it quite well.

So far, 320mm front brakes from an AWD model have been fitted with help from @timbo along with front & rear braided lines and slotted rotors.
I also fitted a K&N Typhoon intake system which if nothing else has increased the enjoyment factor by making the car sound much better, particularly when changing gears. I think it's sharpened up throttle response too.
However there are a few things about this intake I don't like, I only fitted it because I already had it. I'd prefer the Elevate intake with a do88 or Snabb turbo intake pipe.

Future plans will include:
-LSD, & new clutch of some sort
-IPD rear swaybar (I'd prefer Elevate's because it's thicker, but I already have the IPD one)
Probably a suspension overhaul, but not sure what yet. As it's my daily driver I don't want to compromise comfort too much. TBH it handles pretty well at the moment, my main criticism is that the handling isn't as sharp as I'd like.
-Possibly an upgraded downpipe and intercooler later on when I have more money, and if required, maybe an aftermarket tune and full exhaust, although I do like the sound of the current Polestar exhaust. I'd like to get a bit more power out of it but nothing too crazy as it needs to be affordable (and reliable).

Some photos




Looks good. Is the IPD bar thicker? I think your car already has sports suspension, so the RSB is probably already 22mm.
That's a good question, I know the IPD is thicker than a standard P1 bar but I haven't actually measured the one on the car yet to be honest.

Do you know to tell for sure if I have the sports suspension?
240;c-156117 wroteDo you know to tell for sure if I have the sports suspension?
Check the body code! There is some way to decode the suspension parameters.
So is there a website or other source that will explain what the code means?
Unfortunately not straight forward. It's Volvo sekret! There is however a thread on swedespeed with some of the suspension codes and the corresponding parts. If you post your code I'll try to figure it out with the help of Vida.
OK I'll have a look at the code later on.
I have VIDA too, do you just go through the part numbers and match them up somehow?
Yeap, the the parts listing will have something like "for suspension marked 20". The fun part is then working out if that part number is sporty or grandma spec.
The RD had a lower suspension, I've got a set sitting to go in my non RD. Plus Polestar top mounts and some new std bushes but then a rear bar from viva performance I think.
Don't put a new front bar on. But put a solid strut brace on, elevate? It's way better than any including the P* one
It's actually hilarious how pathetic the strut brace is on this car, I can easily bend it with one hand.
Tempted to put a proper one on but I don't know how much difference it will make in normal driving.
Yeah, I heard a rumour of a rumour that it is only cosmetic. The chassis is stiff enough without it.
Can anything be done to improve the turning circle on these? It's pretty terrible, especially when coming from a 240.
240;c-156270 wroteCan anything be done to improve the turning circle on these? It's pretty terrible, especially when coming from a 240.
195 snow tyres and remove the turn stops and it will do amazing things in a parking lot
So if I remove the stops but keep the 225's, there would be rubbing?
240;c-156274 wroteSo if I remove the stops but keep the 225's, there would be rubbing?
Could easily rip a guard off or worse
What turn stops are you talking about @Philia_Bear it's not a P2
c30c30;c-156123 wroteYeap, the the parts listing will have something like "for suspension marked 20". The fun part is then working out if that part number is sporty or grandma spec.
Would be interested to know how you can find out what the specs are for the chassis components. I have the vehicle details sheet printed out by a Volvo mate for my C30 (MY2008 T5 R-design M66). It has the following:
Chassis code: 153195338C72
Spring, front: 15
Shock absorber, front: 31
Anti-roll bar, front: 9
Support spring, front: 7
Spring, back: 53
Shock absorber, back: 38
Anti-roll bar, back: C
Support spring, back: 2

Is it possible to decode the above into anything meaningful?
timbo;c-156279 wroteWhat turn stops are you talking about @Philia_Bear it's not a P2
Yeah I'm drunker than I thought I was
I took a glug every time they said the libs had won a seat in nsw

I was thinking more of improving/increasing caster for greater camber while turning
Though increasing camber as well will make a difference but ruin everything else
Philia_Bear;c-156281 wrote
timbo;c-156279 wroteWhat turn stops are you talking about @Philia_Bear it's not a P2
Yeah I'm drunker than I thought I was
I took a glug every time they said the libs had won a seat in nsw

I was thinking more of improving/increasing caster for greater camber while turning
Though increasing camber as well will make a difference but ruin everything else
There are some rack limiters that are installed on the C30 when 18-inch wheels/tyres like the Atreus are fitted. I found a pic of them - looks like some sort of plastic washers that must fit over the rack on the inboard side of the inner tie rod to limit the rack travel.

12 days later