Ex850R
MormonSuicideBicycle;32016 wrote
Do they run a similar setup to the xc70 and such? I've heard they can be a bit of trouble if the owner has neglected them (obviously).
The awd system is same as XC but differing components in suspension to allow higher ride in XC.
Same problems too but these seem to be better looked after as more rare , I dunno , if you get one it is a gamble.
Do as Rob did , buy XC manual car , pull out the rwd gear and put it in a fwd ensuring it will all be good?
Nice looking car , I think the only question from here would be how is the awd system working?
timbo
I have a manual xc70 p80 main problems are the front tailshaft unijoint gets cooked by the cat convertor and early angle drives dont have a drain plug so they dont get the fluid changed they are not any more/less reliable than the later models just generally neglected for 150,000kms and then people complain and rip the tailshaft out.
Ex850R
Mmm , have you installed drain plug/s in them while in situ @timbo ?
This could be a task I undertake for my R , I am thinking any drilling into the casing will be flushed out by the oil egress and tapping in for a fitting with nipple one side , socket other ( BSP pipe fitting ) and loctite it in so drain can be done is achievable , its the filling that would be the difficult bit?
Maybe this needs separate thread , @Rob?
Rob did you do any of this?
L.
Rob
Yes, front tailshaft CV joint is trouble, i had to replace mine.. It is in close proximity to the cat, so that theory definitely has merit.
My angle drive was rooted, internal gears were still quite good, problem was the spline that connects to the sleeve connecting the gearbox to the angledrive. Mine was bad enough that I had to replace the complete angle drive. The replacement came from a later XC so is slightly different albeit interchangeable. Despite everyone on the internet telling me that bearings and seals were not available I managed to get them easy enough and reraced and resealed the new angle drive before installing it.
I do agree with @timbo , I don't think there is anything inherently wrong with the AWD setup but it does take specific maintenance and if it is not completed, things will fail.
Les, there is honestly no need to persevere with it in the vehicle, angle drive removal is quite easy.
Rob
This discussion was created from comments split from: [GUMTREE] - Volvo 850 AWD Wagon.
Ex850R
Ahh , for me its all under the car on stands which i have avoided so far but needs to be done.
Do you have a link to where the bearings etc came from?
I know Berry has the good used stuff on the shelf but doing it once new would be prudent , of course i hope it is OK and doesnt need replaced!
Whats the oil in there?
I recall you did the silicon oil in the rear as well didnt you? Is that hard to find?
Maybe CAT delete will rid us of this problem! At least some heat proofing in addition to what is there already...
Rob
Even on the ground on stands wouldn't be too hard, biggest part of the job is getting the exhaust and RH axle out of the way. I would certainly remove it so you can see how badly worn the sleeve is and replace it if need be, hopefully before the angle drive spline is rooted. The output spline on my gearbox was a little worn also but not anywhere near as bad, of course by using the correct loctite product you can get away with one being worn so long as the other is good. Angle drive uses the same oil type as the manual trans.
I have not done anything with the rear other than replace the diff oil.
I purchased my bearings and seals from SKF, none of the cheaper brands had the correct sizing. I can dig out the part numbers if you like.
The AWD cat is enormous... even going back to something more conventionally sized and better placed would be a big improvement..
Ex850R
Yeah , i remember a tube or Loctite Liquid Metal in the store cupboard i thought would be a good adition to my toolbox! Proper industrial....
Yes , the parts numbers will be a good resource for here , SKF , all quality !
Big CAT , i must have a look , what is the trick to fool the O2 when the CAT is removed? Space the sensor out or something? Or is it an ECU delete that is needed?
Rob
I have a 2nd O2 Delete included in my ARD tune. I am sure there are other options though.
shall dig out part numbers.
Ex850R
I havent checked with Lucky for ages , does he offer the codes to flash the ecu via laptop yet?
This was on the cards when i bought my tune a while ago now.
Maybe getting on VS on the self tuning thread will reveal such a thing ...
What sort of condition were the rear bushes in the XC parts , suspension etc when you did the switch Rob?
I havent seen any aftermarket stuff for that area yet and havent delved into it yet on mine , dont want to bother pulling stuff if i dont have to but i did notice that the rear tyres were worn on the inside edge , wether they were on the front before i dont know.
L.
MormonSuicideBicycle
Do you guys do your own ecu work?This is something that interests me but I havent been able to find much info (I may be looking in the wrong places). As I believe this is the hard part of doing a manual conversion.
Ex850R
James ,
Go to Volvospeed Forums , there is a thread on programming many pages long and still evolving.
Robert 'Lucky' Arnold started it off years ago and now is ARD Tuning if you want to buy an ECU custom made to suit your upgrades.
Since then that forum thread has taken off for do it yourself on existing chip whereas Lucky grafts a new IC onto the board
There is someone selling pre made tunes from what has been learned by the group on that thread also.
By all means get going and do it!
L.
clinton
Ex850R;32072 wrotewhat is the trick to fool the O2 when the CAT is removed? Space the sensor out or something? Or is it an ECU delete that is needed?
I deleted my cat, and drove the car with the stock ECU for over 100km without any codes. Or you can get a spacer on ebay for about $5. I did that on my wifes subaru.
If you want to modify the stock binary to delete the cat check, it is very easy - just a flag to change. If anyone needs help, just send me a message.
Philia_Bear
Anyone find a good source for the Cv? I need 2
Rob
MormonSuicideBicycle;32079 wroteDo you guys do your own ecu work?This is something that interests me but I havent been able to find much info (I may be looking in the wrong places). As I believe this is the hard part of doing a manual conversion.
James, i have done the manual conversion. I can assure you that an auto ecu will work . There is almost no noticeable difference. Long term a manual ecu may be better but it is certainly not a requirement..
clinton
The manual ECU is meant to help with smoother gear changes, but I have not had the chance to compare the two.
One potential issue you might find running the wrong ECU is the boost limiting down low. IIRC, the manual ECU's have boost limitations by gear, whereas the autos do it based upon speed. I dont have much experience with these though, as such limiters are usally the first to be turned off (or lessened) in a tune.
Regardless, it is quite easy to flash a stock manual binary onto an automatic ECU. See
http://m44.wikia.com/wiki/M44_Wiki
Ex850R
The manual R I had would hold revs while you changed up the gears , seemed odd after other manual cars but I suppose it could help keep boost up...
nickm
MormonSuicideBicycle;32079 wroteDo you guys do your own ecu work?This is something that interests me but I havent been able to find much info (I may be looking in the wrong places). As I believe this is the hard part of doing a manual conversion.
paerl.it/volvo/Volvo%20Motronic%204.3.pdf
clinton
I forgot to mention earlier, that although the DIY tuning crown is almost entirely motronic 4.4 (i.e. s/v/c70 pre 98), the work initially included motronic 4.3 (850s). As such, there are instructions for flashing a stock binary to a motronic 4.3 ECU (e.g. a manual binary to an auto ECU).
HOWEVER, if you are looking at DIY tuning, you should upgrade to 4.4 as the support is much much better.
Ex850R
What is needed to switch to 4.4?
Can you recommend a data logging setup , programming and hardware needed?
Another thing I have been meaning to look into is increasing line pressure in the auto. I know it is talked about on VS but have never seen the method and while we are playing with the ECU I may as well get that happening too!
I have a good ARD green 18psi tune but want to see the data figures and maybe it can be played with as well?
