- E. suburbs - Melbourne
- Last Active
Feeling inspired by Julian's stereo install, thought I might get around to upgrading the speakers in the green E30.
I had my head unit refurbished (wanted the stock look).
I've got the BMW branded Alpine CM5905 fitted as standard for our market with the tweeters in the door pods.
Alpine Australia did a great job and the unit is better than it was back in 1988.
Unfortunately, not the speakers. They've suffered the ravages of time, use and UV.
I was listening to some tunes a few weeks back and the RH side sounded more craptacular than usual.
This is why:
Why repair when you can UPGRADE? 🤩
I wouldn't know where to start with car audio today.
Given 1) it's a convertible, 2) I'm not after a 'doof doof' set-up and 3) would like to keep it looking reasonably stock with a 'drop-in' replacement at a nice price...
Based on the advice of a local car audio installer, ended up going with a set of component speakers.
On the surface they look pretty well made.
First task was to remove old & refit the new tweeters into the OE door pods - they're glued in.
If you don't want to keep your old tweeters, here's a pro tip.
Boil the kettle, fill a mug to the brim, put the tweeter face down into the mug.
Add a splash of hot water to the back and let the glue soften.
OE tweeter grill can be pulled out from the front.
The old tweeter comes out from the back.
Back into the mug, to loosen the remaining glue.
Push out with your thumbs or use some channel locks to pull out.
Scrape away any remaining glue with a knife, line-up & push in the new tweeter at the edges.
Very compact installation.
Comparison of OE & upgrade:
After everything is installed - I am back in 1988 again!
If you're stuck and Mark from Berry can't help you out West, shoot me a PM can put you in contact with someone.
Long story cut short...
My old head unit from the 1988 BMW E30 is an BMW branded Alpine unit.
Out of pure luck, called into the Service Dept at Alpine H.O. here in Vic to see if they could fix it.
An older dude in the workshop overheard me and knew all about that radio and which car(s) they came from.
A few days later had a fully functional head unit good as new.
What he said.
From memory these things have a tow rating of 1600kg.
If it has a square hole hitch receiver towbar, then your max downball load is around 160kg (or less).
i.e. drawbar weight on the towball
From your picture you look like you have a fair bit of mass (load) forward of the trailer axle.
e.g. bikes, spare wheel, load box etc.
Too much ball load will cause this issue.
Whether you have HD springs or airbags or whatever, they don't magically 'remove' mass on the towball.
How do you check downball load?
Buy one of these from Repco/SuperCheap or
Or call into Parkside when you're in town and ask if they can measure your downball load
Or rig-up something funky with some heavy scales.
Full disclosure I work for the company that has a commercial interest in Parkside