After a week or two of ignoring the silver race car, I have actually managed to re-start work on it.
Specifically, converting the Bilsteins to coil overs:
Hit a snag straight away: the 55mm OD of the strut bodies is bigger than the 55mm ID of the sleeves.
I will have a go at linishing off the paint from the struts, but I don’t think that it will be enough.
Big part of me is thinking that I should just buy some coil overs. There’s some Evo10 MCA Blues on Gumtree....
New Pajero calipers. $180 delivered.
Don’t know if they actually fit... the mounting holes are asymmetrical on the bracket, which I don’t remember being a feature of the others I have had.
It would be pretty weird if they managed to mess up the fitment despite having the same pad and bolt spacing.
Will donate them to a mate with an early Pajero if they don’t work on the Mirage.
Trying to buy a set of BC coil overs from old mate. Did all the back and forward, made an offer, he asks what I am going to fit them to and ... crickets.
Some progress on the race car.
Looks like the calipers are going to work despite the different mounting locations.
Definitely take the correct pads.
Test upright thanks to @Wino . 😍
Depending on where I land with shocks, I might yet use the S40 uprights on the race car and move the CH Lancer uprights to the road car.
The extractors also finally turned up.
Couldn’t get the 44mm OD primary versions, and the ETA for the next lot is months away, so I went with the 41mm version.
They came in a lovely coat of aerosol gold paint. The other set (for the 1.8 rally car) we bought at the same time have been similarly attacked in blue aerosol paint. The vibe is definitely that he paints them with whatever he gets out of the Bunnings clearance bin for corrosion protection until they are bolted onto the car.
so much space for a turbo......
Bought some Evo10 coil overs.
They’re AGT brand, which still seems to exist but nobody selling them in Australia.
I went with these for a few reasons:
A) They came with the short lower adaptors for the rear, so they can be shortened down to Mirage length.
B) The fronts fit the CH Lancer uprights.
C) The seller was a human.
They seem to be decent quality, but with the predictable whackiness that comes with cheap coilovers: this set is that they are very short travel (100mm on the front. I would be happier with 120mm).
I have no idea what the spring rates are. Stiff - too stiff for the seller on his Evo10 road car which would be a lot heavier than the Mirage.
So I went with the 400lb/in springs that were already allocated to the car.
The Evo10 front strut tops are different to the earlier cars, so I had to remake the top plates.
The material is the last of some 8mm aluminium that I have had for years - its been used for numerous other strut tops.
I can cut it in the guillotine at work, but it makes a hell of a bang...
No photos of the next step, which was to drill a bunch of overlapping 5mm holes and then file them out to a 6mm slot.
I don’t know what this material is, but it cuts like steel. Very slow process to saw these holes - probably about 20minites each.
Not a clear photo, but more fun hacksawing out the centre section.
Then a bunch of filing and die-grinding to enlarge the hole enough, and get it in the right spot. Sweating profusely...
Second slot drilled and filed out. Bloody tedious.
Finally, tapping out the holes for the studs and threading in bolts from the underside.
Also had to take the edge off the top bearing plate so they clear the bolt head underneath (no photo, sorry).
Typical juggling of spring seats and stuff for it to all go together, and they’re all back together.
The location of the slots is a guess. The idea is that the strut tops and camber pins should allow me to balance both camber and castor.
If it doesn’t work, then I can spin them around and/or flip them over.
With the tougher grade ally it will be like steel almost but the soluble oil coolant is the go unless you have one of the quality Euro lubes especially for alloys which actually are amazing despite the cost I guess cost versus tool wear and time are the benefits , the Euro guys do the best shizz.
I recall some alloy we needed for a job at ALCOA during my apprenticeship and the big brake press with 12 or 16mm to fold took the oxy/acetylene heating tip to anneal the fold area to a point of " rub the wooden handle of a wire brush to see if it leaves a mark easily " indicates ready to fold without cracking the whole fold length! Good bloody fun was had and thanks for reminding me . old memories for an old boily
Suspensions are in.
Have had a quick fiddle with the ride height, and reckon that it is close to where I need it to be: the front control arms are almost parallel to the ground.
Seems like my guesses have been vaguely correct: the shocks are 33% compressed at ride height, and the front springs are (just) captive.
The rears are a bit odd: the helper springs aren’t coil bound at ride height, as I expected them to be.
This suggests that the main spring is going to be way too stiff, but it doesn’t seem like it based on the highly scientific bounce test.
Have test fitted the x40 rear swaybar (thanks again to Wino). Looks like it is all going to work with one or two custom mounts to the body.
With both the camber pins and the strut tops set to maximise the negative camber, there’s “heaps” of it (guessing at -4*) so that should be more than enough.
Having it back on four wheels is a big relief.
Also, the Pajero calipers are a big fat Fail.
Despite me confirming with the seller that they had 128mm bolt spacing before I bought them, they’re actually 125mm, and simply don’t bolt up to the Lancer uprights.
Current plan is to just order some custom made Winmax pads to suit the Lancer calipers.
Persisted with the coilover conversion to the Evo Bilsteins:
Like everything on the internet, there was more work than a few photos will show. In this case, it was several hours in linishing down the OD of the lower leg.
Going from 55mm to 54.5mm sounds quick and easy: it isn’t.
Shims and welds...BUT , it deforms the tube ffs , if only there was a 54.6 ID / 54.9 OD sleeve ey.
New tube all together?
The lower bush in the leg is about 60mm above the bottom of the threaded sleeve. My plan is to weld the sleeve to the leg at the bottom, in three ~10mm long welds.
This will limit the distortion and ensure that it is away from the bushes.
Partly bought this because driving is one of the things that I can still do with a dodgy back (which is getting better) - so of course it makes perfect sense to drive to Harden to buy another $200 Mirage.
This is #6. Crook big ends. It may be the shell I use for the Hyper Miler.
I now own a dog-engagement, close ratio, LSD gearbox for the race car. It needs work, but the price was good enough that I am not complaining.
Trouble is the it has a 5.1 diff - combined with the 1.05:1 top gear, it will be bouncing off the rev limiter at 145kph or so...
I need to see if I can fit the standard Lancer 4.08:1 diff gears to the motorsport box. If that works, then the rally car will get the 5.1s.
y not just run bigger tyres for more grips? and or up the rev limit....
Would need very big tyres. I looked at going to a 17” wheel - a 215/45R17 and it only brings it up to 153kph or so.
Was it stored in the ocean? Whoever let it get that bad must not have paid retail price for it!
It has some history… Short version is that the case was damaged when the car it was in was destroyed, and the owner took some time to regather their composure.
At a minimum, the LSD will live to fight another day.
It cleaned up pretty well, with very little sign of wear or damage.
If I had new bearings, it could go back together properly.
The more I think about it, the more I hope that it is possible to fit the dog gear set to the stock 4.08:1 output shaft/pinion shaft.
If so, the 5.1 diff gears will go into the rally car.
But the last thing I need right now is to distract myself by spreading Mirage gearboxes all over the shed/throughout my brain. I will continue with cleaning up the dog box as a workday lunchtime exercise, and spend my actual spare time and brain power on the Fiesta.
This is the limit of the visible damage to the crownwheel. A bit of pitting on two teeth only - considering that it is from corrosion rather than wear, it doesn’t worry me. If the pinion is no worse, then I will be happy to use them.
if your not going to use it for a while.... I'd drop all the parts into a bath of cheap ATF to soak, anything that's porous will absorb the ATF and protect things
Despite a few tense moments getting the reverse gear off, it is looking increasingly like it will survive.
Bearing still fought me even after I cut it off.
/\ Semi-assembled parts have been cleaned up, loose parts are “as found”.
But it is not all rosy.
It looks like the Modena gears need a Modena output shaft (and possibly also input shaft), which wrecks my diff ratio swap plans.
Also, the pinion gear has some hard facing missing. Not yet catastrophic, but clearly it is not going to last forever.
Photo shows both the best and worst teeth, but they all have some damage.