Greg's 79 245GL Barn Find

1235719

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  • Doing a bit of touch-up in the engine bay where brake fluid leaked and removed the paint. Also a pic of the EV in front of the workshop around sunset tonight. Beautiful weather!i428pjfhbham.png

    Gotta say it - that's a mighty fine shed you have there!
    (and a mighty fine 240, however that's stating the obvious)

    Tassie6erTwo_Four_ZeroVee_Que

  • Gotta say it - that's a mighty fine shed you have there!
    (and a mighty fine 240, however that's stating the obvious)
    Thanks. Still a lot more to do on the shed as well. Have some windows to go in, different person door, want to add more insulation and line it too.
  • I was looking at my rear wiring this morning (I'm doing the same swap as you) and planned to join everything in the spare tire well up high. Would require some extra fiddling for rear demist, number plate light etc. But the deeper I dug the existing wagon harness insulation is just crumbling. Going to either try source a new rear section from a newer wagon or just start fresh and make a new harness. Fuel pump and speed sensor are easy enough and I ran through the grommet in the access plate as standard.
  • I was looking at my rear wiring this morning (I'm doing the same swap as you) and planned to join everything in the spare tire well up high. Would require some extra fiddling for rear demist, number plate light etc. But the deeper I dug the existing wagon harness insulation is just crumbling. Going to either try source a new rear section from a newer wagon or just start fresh and make a new harness. Fuel pump and speed sensor are easy enough and I ran through the grommet in the access plate as standard.
    Sounds like a plan Dave. Yep, I used the 93 fuel tank pass-through plate so the speed sensor wire will pass through and attach as per 93. So basically that circuit is the only circuit in the rear that the 79 doesn’t have. I like your idea of splicing in the harness up above/forward of the spare tyre. I might do that as well but until I’ve pulled the complete interior out of the 93 donor sedan I won’t make any call on how I plan to do it. I think it will be pretty straightforward to use a combination of new and old, and in this case my 79 wagon has very good wiring so I wouldn’t hesitate to use it if it makes things easier. Possibly just run new wires for speed sensor (unpick from 93 harness) then tie everything from 79 harness for rear lights and fuel pumps in up front near the fuse panel as quite a few of those wires probably terminate there anyway. We’ll see. Mine might be easier since the 79 wiring is good.

    At the moment I’m still mucking around with some engine compartment paint touch-ups. Got the area where the brake master leaked re-painted, but now the whole inner guard where I didn’t spray looks daggy with some staining and paint flaking so I probably ought to just do the whole inner guard. Paint seems to match pretty well (shout out to Olarenshaw’s paints in Sunshine). Probably should also touch up near the battery tray area as it has a bit of rust staining on it, but IIRC you can’t really see much down there once everything’s in place...so much easier to do now while it’s all apart though! I think I’ll use flat black for the headlamp panels, as well as the lower radiator crossmember and maybe the rear portion of the lower valence panel.
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    Tassie6er
  • Wasted an afternoon today...mostly. I thought while I’m painting stuff, I’ll remove the front end panel and headlight panels. Then looked at the area around the battery tray and thought I need to pull out the bumper bar bolt that goes through the rail as it was rusty and it would make it easier to paint. So the bolt was super tight then sort of gave way a bit...turns out the bolt was rusted to the spacer tube on the end of the bumper bolt (I didn’t know at the time). Got the impact out and kept going, and of course instead of the bolt coming undone it pushed the weld nut off the bottom of the panel (which is inside the rail...) S**T! Used a hole saw to put a hole in the bottom radiator crossmember under where the nut is and was able to remove the nut, but the bolt of course just spins as the spacer tube is “rust welded” to it. Used the Dremel tool with a small cut-off wheel to remove the head of the bolt, thinking I might be able to do something more....long story short the only way I’m going to get it out is to enlarge the hole in the top of the rail. Bugger! I did a year’s worth of Dremel work in an afternoon. Not fun. Time for a coffee. Sorry no pics as I left my phone inside. Suffice to say the design with the hidden weld nut leaves a bit to be desired. Would be fine if battery acid hadn’t gotten down in an eaten the washer and then leached down in between the sleeve and the bolt. At least there’s no damage on the base metal.
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Picture of that area now?
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Cut and shut the section from donor car?
  • That is so 140 bumper bolt!
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    edited March 2019
    OK here’s a few pics. On the battery side, you can see the top of what’s left after I cut off the head of the bolt.
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    The bolt shaft is stuck inside the crush tube that sits inside the end of the bumper bracket tube. Here’s what the bumper bracket tube with its crush tube looks like, along with the bolt from driver’s side, and the weld nut that came off the passenger side.
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    On the bottom you can see where I used a hole saw to access where the square weld nut would have been attached to the bottom of the reinforcement inside the rail, and you can see the bolt threads sticking down through the reinforcement. Note there’s already a hole in the bottom of the rail so the weld nut could be accessed for assembly and presumably the repair procedure would be to drill the additional hole through the radiator crossmember panel like I did.
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    There’s also a pic of the left side looking inside the rail and you can see the reinforcement that the bolt goes through to sandwich the crush tube on the bumper bracket tube.
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    That’s a lot of words so hopefully you can see what’s going with the pics. I might need to do a sketch at some point but need to turn on the PC to do it properly. Not tonight.
  • That is so 140 bumper bolt!

    I just updated the pics. Yep, very similar to 140 I presume!
  • Cut and shut the section from donor car?
    Nah, nothing that serious. Just need to get the old bolt and sleeve out so I can remove the bumper bracket. Then fit a new bumper bracket and new washer, and put a plastic or rubber plug in the access hole I drilled in the bottom of the radiator crossmember. I had been thinking about trying to fit the new style plastic faced bumper bars to this car, so this probably hastens that decision as I don’t have a good LH side old-style bumper bracket to re-fit...but I could just weld a new tube in once I get this bloody one out!
  • Got the old sleeve and bolt shank out. Had to enlarge the hole in the top of the rail. That means when I put the bumper bracket back in I’ll have to tack a washer on top of the sleeve otherwise it won’t have any surface to bear against and won’t be in compression as per the original design.
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  • Applied primer on the areas I’m touching up in the engine bay. Also primed engine crossmember. I decided since I have 3 rattle cans of yellow paint I’ll go ahead and paint the lower radiator crossmember in yellow as per original. May also paint the headlight support panels in yellow as per original. We’ll see how the paint supply holds out. Had a bit of problem in a few spots with the primer sort of bubbling or “fish-eye”. Probably insufficient cleaning of the base paint? Hopefully I can sand it back a bit and apply another layer of primer to resolve that issue. I may regret not re-spraying the whole inner guard but much of the original paint looked great so I hate to paint over good. Knowing how much stuff there is in the engine bay hopefully the blends won’t be too obvious.elncbm2iumb8.png
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    Ex850Rds245Tassie6er
  • A bit more progress today. Light sand and another coat of primer on the engine bay touch-ups. Layered it on thick enough to cover the fish-eyes! ;) Painted the crossmember with some satin black. Also touched up the underbody deadener spray under the wheel-arches. A bit more work to do but didn’t want to start another can until I’m ready...need to do underside of radiator crossmember, fuel tank and some stuff under the floor.

    Pulled the charcoal canister from the 93 donor car and drilled holes and mounted in same place on the 79. Drilled holes for evap hose clamps in engine bay. Plan to drop into Centre Road Wreckers/Imlachs tomorrow afternoon before the Volvo Club meeting to have a look at the Volvos there and also take my front sway bar and compare to some Falcons. May try to find an earlier the EF/EL as I don’t really want a 27 mm front bar...24-25 would be ideal I think.
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    Tassie6er
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Lookin good man!
    Love the work and the writeups
    carnut222Vee_Que
  • Bought a 25-26 mm ED Falcon front sway bar yesterday. Looks like it’s about 25 mm narrower between the two end eyelets, but will see how it goes fitting once I get the suspension back in the car. If no fit, then I’ll swap the ipd 25 mm front sway bar off the EV onto the yellow wagon, and put the standard 21 mm front bar off the 93 sedan onto the EV. Original 21 mm ‘93 240 front sway bar on left in pic. ED Falcon bar on right.
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  • Got the engine bay touch-up done with the exception of a few spots that I’ll do with the touch-up brush. I got a bit lazy with the paint touch-ups so it doesn’t look perfect but it probably looks better than 90% of the rest of the car’s paint LOL! Also got the 93 power steering rack degreased and installed, and brake lines installed on crossmember. Next step will be installing front suspension. Also need to reinstall old suspension on the donor car so it can be a roller. Then I’ll finish pulling the dash and wiring harness out of the donor car.iqea3t0wch8k.png
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    Ex850Rds245Tassie6erbgpzfm142RobVee_Que
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    Yknow bloke, you need to keep doing cars, we need this great thread of Greg's cars renovations to keep going...
  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    edited April 2019
    Yknow bloke, you need to keep doing cars, we need this great thread of Greg's cars renovations to keep going...
    At the rate I’m going this thread should keep you entertained for a few years LOL!
  • Got a bit more done today. Reinstalled front suspension and lower chassis braces, as well as the new SS brake hoses. Need to spray underbody deadener on the bits and pieces as necessary. Will do when I'm ready to touch up the rest of the underbody. Need to prime a few spots of surface rust along the one side where the sill was replaced. Also need to tighten the rear control arm bush nuts once car is on the ground and at proper suspension height. Decided not to change out the inner tie rods at this time as they felt OK...will double check once I get the wheels back on.
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    alphaxTassie6erjackafricaVee_Que
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