ICEDVOVO;8583 wroteIn all the volvos I have ever owned or looked at I have never seen a rusty one.
Look harder. They're out there. Both of these examples were offered for sale at grossly excessive prices by used car
stealers dealers.
A recent Mr Rust. The thief has the audacity to ask
nearly $3,000 for this pile of ferric oxide.
The original Mr Rust, which has a massive hole in the LH front sill panel near the jack point.
One really has to look at the cars carefully, and have some knowledge of where they rust, when checking out ones for sale. A couple of examples -
* In 244s of this vintage, there is often a lot of rust found on the beaver panel, under the top bumper rubber. Cars which aren't washed regularly get dirt trapped in between the body and this rubber. The rear of the rear wheel arches in 240s are another place to look - water that has fallen into the boot mixes with soil and dust, and settles into the corners where the lower wheel arch meets the inner boot corner.
* Wagons also suffer from this, especially when they have the old style (pre-89) cargo area window seals, which traps dirt and water into the lower edge of the window frame. See Slowbrick's "Irvine" thread where he's just done some rust repairs on this area.
* The clips which hold the windscreen in on pre-78 cars eventually rust, and create rust spots in the area around the windscreen.
And so on.
All cars rust. You have to look for it, and it helps to know where to look. The danger is that idiots think body repair is just plastering and rendering on wheels, and they will happily paint and poop structural areas which looks fine... for a little while. Crappy repairs can be a real problems with old Volvos because the local dealers want ridiculous amounts of money for spare parts, and some owners aren't 'car people', meaning they won't be prepared to hunt for parts or spend the bux to do it properly.