John's 1980 244 GL "Kimberley"

pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
edited April 23 in RWD
This is my 1980 Volvo 244 GL sedan. B21E with an M46. Brown interior.

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So far, i've painted the factory 14x5.5 steelies, completed a stage 0, five new tyres, a new stereo, newer interior parts and some lighting stuff.

I have a K cam and complete air conditioner setup ready to go in.
Next mods after that will be swapping the rear muffler for a hot dog resonator, maybe cut springs (2, 1.5), some further service stuff and replacement parts, cheap aluminium shift knob with a switch on top.

When I've got a bit more money to throw at it, it'll probably get (in order of most to least probable at this point haha) new windscreen, bushings, steering wheel, coilovers, brakes, wheels, turbo/supercharger (leaning toward a side-mounted Eaton M90), maybe a swap to a B230 or ideally B234, respray, maybe 2JZ or Barra, etc. We'll see how I go!

It was owned previously by a lady who bought it new in Kalgoorlie, hence the plates.
It was assembled and painted (Dulon Signal Yellow CLR727) by Nissan at the Cranbourne factory.

The day I picked her up, me and Kimberley's new car in the background - (early '00s) gold V40, automatic which is why she wanted it - changing gears started getting too much for her arthritis.

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A few days after

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Engine bay

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Comments

  • Original plates that match car colour, nice
    pieboyfreshvo940
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    So you didn't drive it down from the Kimberley 🤣
    pieboyfresh
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    @gavinh Hahahaha, I did buy it from a Kimberley!
    gavinh
  • Given it a thorough de-desert-dusting?
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    edited March 31
    Yeah @egads when I first bought it in August of last year, pulled everything except the dash and floor carpet, vacuumed like crazy. I am slowly using Meguiar's ultimate compound with a microfibre cloth to try to bring back the bonnet bit by bit.

    Eventually i'll fix the little bits of rust behind the rear bumper and in the right rear wheel well and respray the whole car, but that'll be once i'm a lot better set up than I am. In both spots i've sanded most of the rust out and gone over with primer and flat black just to keep it from getting any worse.
    egads
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    edited April 23
    Some photos of the progress i've made so far

    Less rusty buttcheek (sanded back and painted), with some blu-tak which has been fine for sealing the rust hole for the last 5 months.

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    5 new tyres to replace the '02 manufactured ones that gave up on me - Starfire (Cooper) RS-C 2.0, 185/70R14
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    Black rims, Dulux metalguard gloss enamel - ended up painting them twice because I didn't know etch primer was a thing.

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    Newer, less crumbly interior parts

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    A bit of a tri-colour theme going on, but i'm going to get some SEM colour coat to fix that, I'm pretty sure they do the correct colour if my research isn't way off.

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    Compressor, condenser, reciever/drier, hoses, wiring, belt, brackets, complete heater box and K cam

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    And an in-progress shot of pulling the heater box, not the most fun I've ever had in a day

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  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    And in the last week (haven't taken any photos yet) got a new washer bottle with uncracked lid, two washer pumps (both fucked unfortunately), genuine hazard triangle and a blue snowflake switch and all the wiring.
    I replaced most of the vacuum hoses and all the washer hoses, riveted a few compliance plates in the engine bay back on.

    This week i've got a new radio ready to go in, a Kenwood KDC-BT620U to replace my Eclipse (Fujitsu) CD5030 which is trash.

    I've got a black aluminium shift knob and LED button in the mail, i'll probably have a go at fitting them this coming weekend.

    After that, i'm planning to order a long list of stuff from FCP as for a lot of it I think i've pretty much exhausted all the local options.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    Looks good man.you running a York compressor?
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    Cheers Gav, yeah hopefully will be as long as it it's in OK shape. Otherwise I'll probably get the same Four Seasons one that James used on his build. Putting all of the aircon parts in and getting a leak test done is going to be one of the next steps, i've just gotta figure out the wiring since I'm mixing parts a bit. The '84 donor for all the big bits was missing the knob and wiring for some reason so I had to get a blue snowflake switch out of a '90 model which I think had a Sankyo compressor actually. I did a bit of reading the other night and apparently it is possible to change from knob to switch but I've just gotta figure out how. As long as it works before next summer I'll be happy, my car sits in the sun all day while I'm working, and getting into a 50 degree car and driving 50mins home is not the nicest feeling.
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    I have a spare York one and hoses if you req, they are just sitting in the shed
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    Awesome, thanks dude - i'll see if this one works and if not I might take you up on that offer :D
    gavinh
  • FNQTanFFNQTan (@FNQTan) Townsville / Cairns
    Nice work, Show us the stereo / front dash!
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    @pieboyfresh have you installed that compressor yet? If you're switching to R134a you'll want to refill it with the correct oil. It might be easiest to have your local AC guy flush it out for you, or you can buy PAG oil (Ester oil) and do it yourself. FCP sells it. You'll have a hard time sourcing it locally for some reason (at least, I did).

    It's also a good idea to take the evaporator and the condenser while you have them out, and flush them out with mineral turps, to remove any old oil. Also replace the dryer and the Tx valve.

    I can help you understand what's different between switch-style and rotary dial A/C controls. Both have a thermostat that regulates the compressor and stops it from running 100% duty cycle (although maybe the "red" zone on the rotary dial corresponds to 100%).

    The rotary dial IS the thermostat, it has a copper tube that runs down to the evaporator, when the evaporator drops below whatever temp it disconnects the compressor. The dial module has spade connectors on the back for this.

    The old-old AC style with the on/off switch still has a thermostat, but it's hidden away, clipped onto the side of the blower housing next to the evaporator. This part is NLA, and I lost mine, so I just switch the A/C on and off as needed. Normally after 10 minutes the car is nice and cool so I turn it off until the cabin starts to warm up again.

    The late-model style with the switch with the snowflake on it ALSO has a thermostat, but this time it's moved again, and I believe is found in the engine bay between the passenger-side strut tower and the firewall.

    Diagrams for every conceivable variant are here: http://cleanflametrap.com/ac.html

    If you need any help feel free to ask, it took me ages to piece together everything I know about 240 AC.
    bgpzfm142
  • @pieboyfresh have you installed that compressor yet? If you're switching to R134a you'll want to refill it with the correct oil. It might be easiest to have your local AC guy flush it out for you, or you can buy PAG oil (Ester oil) and do it yourself. FCP sells it. You'll have a hard time sourcing it locally for some reason (at least, I did).

    It's also a good idea to take the evaporator and the condenser while you have them out, and flush them out with mineral turps, to remove any old oil. Also replace the dryer and the Tx valve.

    I can help you understand what's different between switch-style and rotary dial A/C controls. Both have a thermostat that regulates the compressor and stops it from running 100% duty cycle (although maybe the "red" zone on the rotary dial corresponds to 100%).

    The rotary dial IS the thermostat, it has a copper tube that runs down to the evaporator, when the evaporator drops below whatever temp it disconnects the compressor. The dial module has spade connectors on the back for this.

    The old-old AC style with the on/off switch still has a thermostat, but it's hidden away, clipped onto the side of the blower housing next to the evaporator. This part is NLA, and I lost mine, so I just switch the A/C on and off as needed. Normally after 10 minutes the car is nice and cool so I turn it off until the cabin starts to warm up again.

    The late-model style with the switch with the snowflake on it ALSO has a thermostat, but this time it's moved again, and I believe is found in the engine bay between the passenger-side strut tower and the firewall.

    Diagrams for every conceivable variant are here: http://cleanflametrap.com/ac.html

    If you need any help feel free to ask, it took me ages to piece together everything I know about 240 AC.

    The nice thing about the rotary dial AC switch is you have some control over it and when on the highway for example you can turn it down so the AC compressor is only running say 20% of the time. The on-off style switches must just run the AC compressor until it nearly freezes up then shut it off for a bit to thaw out. In my 91 240 I had it regassed with HyChill Minus 30 or whatever it's called (basically LPG) and it freezes up on the highway if I don't manually cycle the on-off switch. I bought one of the rotary switch thermostat setups and plan to install that when I get around to it.
    Vee_Que
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    @carnut222 well you can adjust the thermostats in both switch-type setups, but yes you'd be stuck with one setting only. In Nina's 244 with the modern screw-type compressor I find even in summer you never need the dial set above about 50% and usually only about 10-20%.
    carnut222Vee_Que
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    Just happened to come across some old notes about my AC. The oil I used was PAO 68. Needed 200ml or so. It's good to oil the o-rings with it too when you install them.
  • GhettobirdJulian (@Ghettobird) Melbourne - SE Suburbs
    ITS SO YELLOW!!! :love:
    I love it!
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    edited May 24
    Thanks @FNQTan - I'll take some photos when my phone isn't flat! I'm still yet to figure out whether I should fork out the $35-40 for a fascia kit to surround the stereo or just not worry about it. Dash pad is pretty fucked at this point but i'll probably fill and flock it at some point. Or something. I'll see how I feel about it as time goes on. I want a mat for it, and i'm toying with the idea of making something like this, except with a yellow velour and fringe.

    jLriN4vh.jpg

    @jamesinc Not yet. I'm hoping to find someone dodgy who will refill R12 but I don't like my chances.
    I'll grab some PAO 68 from IPD along with the $400 of other stuff I need, and I'll make sure I oil the o-rings :mrgreen:
    I want to test fit the K cam before I order and measure valve clearances so I can order shims and hushers at the same time, but to do that I need a torque wrench and feeler gauges first.
    Thanks for the advice mate, definitely will do.
    I don't have the thermostat you mentioned so it's probably lucky that I've got a rotary switch from a '79 264 lined up. Especially helpful since the heater box I have came from a car with the same setup.

    @carnut222 From the sounds of it i'm going with the best possible setup then! Adjustable is great.
    I find that I really only want the air cond on 35C+ days during summer because my car sits outdoors in a car park all day while i'm at work, so it makes the first half of my commute home a bit of a living hell. Most of the time if the weather's a bit warm I like to have the window(s) down anyway.

    Cheers @Ghettobird I do too! And yes it's definitely hard to miss. The "What the fuck is that...?" looks that I get from people on a daily basis are hilarious, but that's usually the adults. Kids always yell "Wow look at that car!" or something to that effect.

    Not a huge amount of other updates on the car itself unfortunately. I'm doing some work on Steph's 1988 240 wagon - B230F and AW55 (I think?), this weekend - going to change out her water pump as it's leaking pretty badly. Good practice for me. This is the beast:

    8p7QWaAh.jpg


    Her photography skills are pretty fantastic so I'm trying to stay in her good books so that maybe she'll take some snaps of my car! The body is pretty rough and it needs some small stuff but overall it's not a bad car. I'll see if I can talk her into joining here.

    Not sure when yet but i'm lined up to grab that switch, thermostat and wiring, headlight wipers, mud flaps, headrests, front and rear, boot carpet and spare wheel cover, parcel shelf carpet and maybe parcel shelf speakers and grilles, and headlights, depending on how much he wants. It has a much nicer dash pad and electric windows, but I can't be bothered swapping it since it's cracked anyway, and I don't really like electric windows. This is it:

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    And it's now minus rear right window, since one of the guys I've been dealing with over it, Alan, just had his broken. Stole an Airtex fuel pump off the back seat and that was the end of that.

    cUpu9Huh.jpg
    Vee_Que
  • pieboyfreshJohn (@pieboyfresh) Spearwood, Perth
    The only other things I forgot to mention are that I got some vent mount cup holders which work brilliantly, and will take nearly any cup, and I've ordered a catch can because i'm sick of dripping oil on the ground from the PCV hose draining into and running out the bottom of the airbox. Went for this one, $50 near-exact knockoff of the $200 Mishimoto ones which look pretty well designed. I've ordered Sundely brand stuff before and it's been pretty good.

    I'll likely leave the flame trap/valve as-is for now, and run the can between that and the airbox. Down the track i'll replace the valve/flame trap with a reducer and move the hose that runs back to the top of the intake manifold so it's teed from after the can.

    And some interior photos, but not with the phone because after a bit of trying it does not handle low light at all.

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  • If you can find someone near you that uses Hychill you can avoid retrofitting the A/C for r134 and also not feel bad if it leaks out. It's an lpg based refrigerant that has similar properties to R12 and can work more effectively than a r134 conversion.
    pieboyfreshVee_Que
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