940 & 960 What to look for when a buying a 940?

edited February 11 in General 3 / 1joined Feb 2018
Hi there,

first post so hello all!

I've always wanted a Volvo estate, and after seeing a few 850's I've decided I would prefer an earlier RWD 940 or a 740 however can't seem to find a clean 740 estate.

Ideally i'm looking at the turbo 4, and preferably manual however haven't had much luck finding a manual example.

What exactly should I look for and check for? The usual google search doesn't provide much help, "Swedish brick" "1Mil Kms on an engine" etc, etc. Things go wrong with every car right?

Also, if I end up going for an auto, how do they drive? Does the auto cripple the sporty component of the car? Especially seeing as they don't have tip tronic options. Are they a difficult/costly manual swap also?

Thanks in advance for any input!

Comments

  • 10525 / 84joined Jul 2013
    Find one that is rust free
    940 is what you want... but never sold from factory in manual in Aus

    Very few factory manual 740 in Aus

    Honestly... finding a good 850/v70 manual is going to be world's easier than building a 940 manual wagon

    Owing both...
    I do like my 940 wagon... but dam... it has eaten a lot of my life and $$$
    Vee_Quevo940
    I think you need to add i was in an s80 with three wheels getting pulled backwards and was told to "hold on shit is about to get real".
  • bgpzfm142bgpzfm142 (@bgpzfm142) near Katoomba NSW
    2750 / 156joined Feb 2014
    There are two very clean 940T wagons presently for sale on the "I Roll Volvo Group Australia" group on Facebook.

    940s seats are a lot nicer than 740s.

    Look for when the timing belt was changed, and at the maintenance history in general. Colour of trans fluid should be clean and red. AW71 autos should change up and down without clunks or slip. Steering should feel tight and should not feel loose with a little bit of lock on; this may indicate ball joints or bushes on the way out, or the rack being cactus.

    Turbo should spool up fairly well without any nasty noises. Don't expect silky smoothness from a B230FT, but if it vibrates like hell, check out the condition of the engine and gearbox mountings, which do fail.

    Power windows should all work; sometimes the master switch on the driver's door goes cactus.

    See if the heater works, otherwise it may have leaky heater core which has been bypassed. Face level vents should be able to blow air outta them with fan on and at full throttle - if not, the 2-port vacuum motor that controls the floor and face vents near the heater core has perished, and the face-level vents will go quiet and you'll feel air blowing on your feet during acceleration.

    Stage 0 tuning (i.e. replacement of old rubber hoses and leads, etc) is recommended.

    If you're doing a transmission swap to a BW / BTR / Tremec T5 5-speed, use one out of a AU Ford. They have the best shift lever positioning for the 940.

    The 940T wagon isn't exactly (or remotely) a sports car unless you wanna throw crazy money at it, however it will haul around quite a lot of stuff at quite an adequate rate of knots. I doubt I'll ever willingly get rid of mine, unless it's to replace it with another one.
    1LQhVAhm.png
    71 1800E |73 144 |74 142 |74 145 |79 242GT |88 780 |93 945T |2010 S80 V8
  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    2813 / 143joined Jul 2013
    Instrument clusters can be problematic. Dry/fatigued joints where components are soldered to the flexible board can cause all sorts of dramas, but are easily fixed.
    Old electrolytic capacitors dry out and cause the speedo to stop working. Still a viable repair for a careful person with some soldering experience, but probably beyond a total newb's skill set.
    Vee_Que
  • DauntlessDauntless (@Dauntless) Central West NSW
    2230 / 45joined Jul 2013
    There are two very clean 940T wagons presently for sale on the "I Roll Volvo Group Australia" group on Facebook.
    Any chance you could send them to me? I can't find them and I've been looking for one for a while. I can't find them in the group.
  • Find one that is rust free
    940 is what you want... but never sold from factory in manual in Aus

    Very few factory manual 740 in Aus

    Honestly... finding a good 850/v70 manual is going to be world's easier than building a 940 manual wagon

    Owing both...
    I do like my 940 wagon... but dam... it has eaten a lot of my life and $$$

    Are 940's prone to rust at all?
  • There are two very clean 940T wagons presently for sale on the "I Roll Volvo Group Australia" group on Facebook.

    940s seats are a lot nicer than 740s.

    Look for when the timing belt was changed, and at the maintenance history in general. Colour of trans fluid should be clean and red. AW71 autos should change up and down without clunks or slip. Steering should feel tight and should not feel loose with a little bit of lock on; this may indicate ball joints or bushes on the way out, or the rack being cactus.

    Turbo should spool up fairly well without any nasty noises. Don't expect silky smoothness from a B230FT, but if it vibrates like hell, check out the condition of the engine and gearbox mountings, which do fail.

    Power windows should all work; sometimes the master switch on the driver's door goes cactus.

    See if the heater works, otherwise it may have leaky heater core which has been bypassed. Face level vents should be able to blow air outta them with fan on and at full throttle - if not, the 2-port vacuum motor that controls the floor and face vents near the heater core has perished, and the face-level vents will go quiet and you'll feel air blowing on your feet during acceleration.

    Stage 0 tuning (i.e. replacement of old rubber hoses and leads, etc) is recommended.

    If you're doing a transmission swap to a BW / BTR / Tremec T5 5-speed, use one out of a AU Ford. They have the best shift lever positioning for the 940.

    The 940T wagon isn't exactly (or remotely) a sports car unless you wanna throw crazy money at it, however it will haul around quite a lot of stuff at quite an adequate rate of knots. I doubt I'll ever willingly get rid of mine, unless it's to replace it with another one.

    Thanks for the write up :astonished:

    So if I wanted to go down the manual road I could take a T5 out of an AU XR6?
  • bgpzfm142bgpzfm142 (@bgpzfm142) near Katoomba NSW
    2750 / 156joined Feb 2014
    Any chance you could send them to me? I can't find them and I've been looking for one for a while. I can't find them in the group.

    John's 92, for $5K ono (in Sydney)
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/IRollVGA/permalink/1505022749595444/?sale_post_id=1505022749595444

    Kade's 92, for $4K ono (in 6060)
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/IRollVGA/permalink/1506213309476388/?sale_post_id=1506213309476388

    Have you still got yours?
  • bgpzfm142bgpzfm142 (@bgpzfm142) near Katoomba NSW
    2750 / 156joined Feb 2014
    Rust, in Oz? The floor plan, on the LH side at the front, where the chassis rail runs underneath the front seat passenger's side floor pan. Nowhere else really, unless there's been dodgy repairs done.
    So if I wanted to go down the manual road I could take a T5 out of an AU XR6?
    That would be the ideal choice, but you would need to change / modify its input shaft to make life easy.
    egadsVee_Que
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    7969 / 45joined Jul 2013
    There are two very clean 940T wagons presently for sale on the "I Roll Volvo Group Australia" group on Facebook.

    940s seats are a lot nicer than 740s.

    Look for when the timing belt was changed, and at the maintenance history in general. Colour of trans fluid should be clean and red. AW71 autos should change up and down without clunks or slip. Steering should feel tight and should not feel loose with a little bit of lock on; this may indicate ball joints or bushes on the way out, or the rack being cactus.

    Turbo should spool up fairly well without any nasty noises. Don't expect silky smoothness from a B230FT, but if it vibrates like hell, check out the condition of the engine and gearbox mountings, which do fail.

    Power windows should all work; sometimes the master switch on the driver's door goes cactus.

    See if the heater works, otherwise it may have leaky heater core which has been bypassed. Face level vents should be able to blow air outta them with fan on and at full throttle - if not, the 2-port vacuum motor that controls the floor and face vents near the heater core has perished, and the face-level vents will go quiet and you'll feel air blowing on your feet during acceleration.

    Stage 0 tuning (i.e. replacement of old rubber hoses and leads, etc) is recommended.

    If you're doing a transmission swap to a BW / BTR / Tremec T5 5-speed, use one out of a AU Ford. They have the best shift lever positioning for the 940.

    The 940T wagon isn't exactly (or remotely) a sports car unless you wanna throw crazy money at it, however it will haul around quite a lot of stuff at quite an adequate rate of knots. I doubt I'll ever willingly get rid of mine, unless it's to replace it with another one.

    Thanks for the write up :astonished:

    So if I wanted to go down the manual road I could take a T5 out of an AU XR6?

    You can use any six cylinder au t5 box, there is a conversion guide and I still make and supply adaptor plates and clutches to suit the t5 and more power too.

    But definitely not a sporty car in the typical sense.
  • Any chance you could send them to me? I can't find them and I've been looking for one for a while. I can't find them in the group.

    John's 92, for $5K ono (in Sydney)
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/IRollVGA/permalink/1505022749595444/?sale_post_id=1505022749595444

    Kade's 92, for $4K ono (in 6060)
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/IRollVGA/permalink/1506213309476388/?sale_post_id=1506213309476388

    Have you still got yours?

    I've been in contact with Kade, is he a member here?
  • bgpzfm142bgpzfm142 (@bgpzfm142) near Katoomba NSW
    2750 / 156joined Feb 2014
    ^ Not sure.
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