Introducing Viktoria, 1974 Volvo 164E



  • edited April 27
    Turning on the heater didn't help but turning off the AC did yesterday.

    Interestingly driving the car today with no AC, there was no sign of the high gauge readings but it was nowhere near as hot today. I have since replaced the sensor and, at idle, the needle sits at the top of the "N" on the gauge, even with the AC on. I will take her for a run tomorrow and do some more testing.
    Current: 1990 Gold Volvo 740GLE "Inga"; 1996 Gold Volvo 960 "Sofia"; 1998 Saffron Pearl Volvo C70 "Sonja"; 1974 Wattle Yellow Volvo 164 "Viktoria"
    Previous: 1996 960 "Olga"; 1999 C70T5 "Britt".
  • The top of N is nothing to worry about in theory it's only in the 80s I believe. The 1 series didn't have a temp faker that kept the guage in the middle for mild adjustments in temp.

    If it's just sitting at the top of N at idle I wouldn't worry too much. Does it go back down when you start moving?

    My guage goes to 3/4 area of the green before the E fan kicks on at 82 degrees. I will be upgrading to a twin setup soon to cope with the added demand of a/c.

    If youd like the b30 to rev easier and sound nicer without that whooshing noise I'd recommend switching out the viscous 👍
  • Did a test drive this morning in Viktoria. The needle of the gauge stayed at the bottom of the N for the whole time on the highway with the AC running. Turned off the highway and the needle went up. Back at home at idle with the bonnet up the needle remains high. Drops a bit with the AC turned off but still remains above the N.EAw4YbEh.jpg
  • ab1Alex (@ab1) Melbourne
    edited November 2018
    what ambient temps are you in. i suspect it is just the reduced airflow (from the condenser plus trans cooler) causing the temp to go up a bit. what temperature is your ac fan set to come on at?

    im planning on trying to get some twin EL falcon fans to stick behind my rad. only about 60$ from the wreckers if i can make them fit. then theres these as an alternative.
  • The fan wired to the AC runs when the compressor runs plus I have a switch on the console to run it manually.

    There shouldn't be any more heat from the trans cooler than originally as the heat from the trans went into the radiator originally. There is, of course, some flow reduction. The viscous coupling has been replaced and there's plenty of air flow. I'm still thinking that there's something wrong with the gauge reading.
  • edited April 27
    Just took her for another run down the M1 and then dropped into my local mechanic's place as he has a IR temperature probe. Car ran perfectly on the M1 but the needle went up when I parked at the garage.

    So at idle with AC running, the needle is almost to the orange mark on the gauge. But the IR probe is showing only 82 at the top radiator hose and 10C or more lower at the bottom pipe. As soon as I drove off the needle dropped again to the middle of the N. I'm left with two possibilities
    1. the gauge is faulty or
    2. there really is not enough air flow when stopped.

    I'll stop fretting about it now that I have checked the actual temperatures using the IR probe.
  • I would try checking the belt tension and hardness first - if is is slipping from not being tight or the belt is hard and not gripping well then the operation of the fan and water pump may be poor at low RPM. Some new belts can slacken a bit. Some of the aftermarket don't seem to pump that well. And after all that, my 164 pretty much always did as you are describing on a hot day anyway at idle - but the durable cast iron engine never became unhappy.
  • i wonder if anyone knows how hot these engines can safely idle at. they run a few degrees cooler than white block counterparts however is it actually detrimental to run in the 90s on the iron blocks. i set my fan to come on at 82 based on the temp guage but maybe it can be higher requiring the fan to work less hard.
  • 242GT242GT (@242GT) Wollongong NSW
    It's an old trick on a straight six cylinder but drill a small hole eg. 2-2.5mm in the top of the thermostat.
    I owned a 1973 164E factory 5 speed fantastic car, it's the one in the photo towing the 144 race car.
    Some people used to take the smaller fog lights out and put stainless mesh in to increase air flow.
    Try the old XU-1 Torna trick and put a stainless steel spoiler on the cross member.
  • It's an old trick on a straight six cylinder but drill a small hole eg. 2-2.5mm in the top of the thermostat.
    I owned a 1973 164E factory 5 speed fantastic car, it's the one in the photo towing the 144 race car.
    Some people used to take the smaller fog lights out and put stainless mesh in to increase air flow.
    Try the old XU-1 Torna trick and put a stainless steel spoiler on the cross member.

    Well, Peer from GLT has already tried the hole in the thermostat trick.

    I'm not sure how taking the fog lights out will help as they don't lead to the radiator.

    The car is already fitted with a front spoiler attached to the bumper bar. The only thing I can think to try is to put the original bumper spacers back in and so move the bumper bar forward again. This might somehow channel more air to the radiator. In any case, the electric fan in front of the radiator now has been wired with a manual switch on the console, so I can switch it on when stuck in traffic.
  • I concur with this. It can be extremely useful to find if there are any hot spots in the block. I was able to spot an issue with coolant flow on my SAAB Sonett using an IR thermometer and was able to catch a serious problem before it became catastrophic. It could not be solved by flushing, so I ended up pulling the engine and having it hot tanked and flushed. (Took the time to have hardened valve seats since everything was apart...)

    Dave Riedle
  • edited February 20
    Latest work on Viktoria consisted of removing the door cards in preparation to get her windows tinted. The failure, once again, of the AC has put that on hold. Too hot up here to drive without being able to wind down the windows.

    While I had the door cards off I dealt with the dreaded rust starting up in some places. Some SCA Rust Converter and when that was dry, liberal amounts of Tectyl 506 Rust Preventative. Hopefully that will stave off the rust until I can afford a full restoration.

    When that was all dry, I proceeded to install some sound proofing in the doors (it's already on the floor and firewall and in the boot).


    I'll have to make up some new plastic sheeting to cover the inside of the door cards and replace the various strips of foam in places.

    Viktoria is going back to GLT for some more work next week including the installation of a new instrument pod.

  • Good progress. What sound deadener mats did you use? I plan to do that on my yellow 79 wagon and have been looking at eBay etc. If you were happy with your product a link would be good. Also what’s the colour code on your car? Just curious if it’s the same as my wagon (CLR-725). Apologies if that’s already been covered!
  • The colour is a Dulon 'Wattle 566-13971'. The two doors are the same colour just some odd colour variation from my phone.

    I had some "Car Builders" product and another cheap ebay product to use up (I bought plenty when I did my 740). The Car Builders stuff seems pretty good and I don't think it was much more than the cheap Ebay stuff. The Ebay stuff seems fine too.

    They have a lot of sound deadening and other materials for sale.
  • Picked up Viktoria, my 1974 Volvo 164E from GLT Car Centre this morning and drove it home.

    Air-conditioning working again (yippie) and the R Sports instrument pod has been installed. Also now have a full switch bank, namely Air-conditioning, Fog lamp, Rear demist, Aux lamp (actually aux fan at front of radiator), Hazard, Electric antenna (up/down) and double USB outlet.

    I still have to get the speedo working with some sort of electric cable drive doohicky.


    Next job is to get the windows tinted and put the door skins back on.
  • I love the I R-Sports instrument cluster! I have a GT Instruments cluster for my '71, but the later 6-gauge clusters are much cooler. Viktoria looks great!

    Dave Riedle
  • Viktoria is back from Mastertint and looks good. It's a 35% tint so it should keep more of the heat out.
    Now to put all the bits back in the car such as door trims, rear venetian, head rests etc.



  • Looking great. I’m digging the fact that your wall paint is yellow too! :)
  • It's more faded 850TR5 yellow.
  • I removed the door trims on my 1974 Volvo 164E so that the windows could be tinted (see above).

    Now that job is done I need to fix up the trims. As you can see there is some water damage. So I have taped plastic sheeting on the inside of the trims and used the same to cover up the holes in the door. The sheeting goes inside the door at the bottom of the hole so that any drips fall inside. This should keep the trims a little drier.




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