Introducing Viktoria, 1974 Volvo 164E

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  • Turing on the heater didn't help but turning off the AC did yesterday.

    Interestingly driving the car today with no AC, there was no sign of the high gauge readings but it was nowhere near as hot today. I have since replaced the sensor and, at idle, the needle sits at the top of the "N" on the gauge, even with the AC on. I will take her for a run tomorrow and do some more testing.
    OldnDecrepit
    Current: 1990 Gold Volvo 740GLE "Inga"; 1996 Gold Volvo 960 "Sofia"; 1998 Saffron Pearl Volvo C70 "Sonja"; 1974 Wattle Yellow Volvo 164 "Viktoria"
    Previous: 1996 960 "Olga"; 1999 C70T5 "Britt".
    bgpzfm142
  • The top of N is nothing to worry about in theory it's only in the 80s I believe. The 1 series didn't have a temp faker that kept the guage in the middle for mild adjustments in temp.

    If it's just sitting at the top of N at idle I wouldn't worry too much. Does it go back down when you start moving?

    My guage goes to 3/4 area of the green before the E fan kicks on at 82 degrees. I will be upgrading to a twin setup soon to cope with the added demand of a/c.

    If youd like the b30 to rev easier and sound nicer without that whooshing noise I'd recommend switching out the viscous 👍
  • Did a test drive this morning in Viktoria. The needle of the gauge stayed at the bottom of the N for the whole time on the highway with the AC running. Turned off the highway and the needle went up. Back at home at idle with the bonnet up the needle remains high. Drops a bit with the AC turned off but still remains above the N.EAw4YbEh.jpg
  • ab1Alex (@ab1) Melbourne
    edited November 9
    what ambient temps are you in. i suspect it is just the reduced airflow (from the condenser plus trans cooler) causing the temp to go up a bit. what temperature is your ac fan set to come on at?

    im planning on trying to get some twin EL falcon fans to stick behind my rad. only about 60$ from the wreckers if i can make them fit. then theres these as an alternative.

    https://www.xtremeautoparts.com.au/shop/pc/SPAL-Puller-Fan-Twin-11-quot-Straight-12V-2720-CFM-29-8Amp-811p7338.htm
  • The fan wired to the AC runs when the compressor runs plus I have a switch on the console to run it manually.

    There shouldn't be any more heat from the trans cooler than originally as the heat from the trans went into the radiator originally. There is, of course, some flow reduction. The viscous coupling has been replaced and there's plenty of air flow. I'm still thinking that there's something wrong with the gauge reading.
  • Just took her for another run down the M1 and then dropped into my local mechanic's place as he has a IR temperature probe. Car ran perfectly on the M1 but the needle went up when I parked at the garage.

    So at idle with AC running, the needle is almost to the orange mark on the gauge. But the IR probe is showing only 82 at the top radiator hose and 10C or more lower at the bottom pipe. As soon as I drove off the needle dropped again to the middle of the N. I'm left with two possibilities
    1. the gauge is faulty or
    2. there really is not enough air flow when stopped.

    I'll stop fretting about it now that I have checked the actual temperatures using the IR probe.
    ab1
  • 1971_144GL1971_144GL (@1971_144GL) Launceston, Tasmania
    I would try checking the belt tension and hardness first - if is is slipping from not being tight or the belt is hard and not gripping well then the operation of the fan and water pump may be poor at low RPM. Some new belts can slacken a bit. Some of the aftermarket don't seem to pump that well. And after all that, my 164 pretty much always did as you are describing on a hot day anyway at idle - but the durable cast iron engine never became unhappy.
  • i wonder if anyone knows how hot these engines can safely idle at. they run a few degrees cooler than white block counterparts however is it actually detrimental to run in the 90s on the iron blocks. i set my fan to come on at 82 based on the temp guage but maybe it can be higher requiring the fan to work less hard.
  • 242GT242GT (@242GT) Wollongong NSW
    It's an old trick on a straight six cylinder but drill a small hole eg. 2-2.5mm in the top of the thermostat.
    I owned a 1973 164E factory 5 speed fantastic car, it's the one in the photo towing the 144 race car.
    Some people used to take the smaller fog lights out and put stainless mesh in to increase air flow.
    Try the old XU-1 Torna trick and put a stainless steel spoiler on the cross member.
  • It's an old trick on a straight six cylinder but drill a small hole eg. 2-2.5mm in the top of the thermostat.
    I owned a 1973 164E factory 5 speed fantastic car, it's the one in the photo towing the 144 race car.
    Some people used to take the smaller fog lights out and put stainless mesh in to increase air flow.
    Try the old XU-1 Torna trick and put a stainless steel spoiler on the cross member.

    Well, Peer from GLT has already tried the hole in the thermostat trick.

    I'm not sure how taking the fog lights out will help as they don't lead to the radiator.

    The car is already fitted with a front spoiler attached to the bumper bar. The only thing I can think to try is to put the original bumper spacers back in and so move the bumper bar forward again. This might somehow channel more air to the radiator. In any case, the electric fan in front of the radiator now has been wired with a manual switch on the console, so I can switch it on when stuck in traffic.
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