Newish Volvo V50 AWD T5 -6 speed - time to modify

nesMZXqh.jpg
c93bvjLh.jpg
So I figured I'd best come clean and post my details up instead of lurking in the background... I picked up this V50 in September last year from Adelaide and drove it back to Sydney.

It's my first Volvo and I really love it. I was looking for a manual T5 AWD off and on for 12 months so when this one came up I jumped on it. It's got fairly low kms (75,000) and was always serviced at the dealer.

I had always intened to modify it (without going too crazy) and I'm just about to get started. I'm looking to kick off with the handling - so I've been looking at various coilover set ups but I must say it's hard to get much specific info on what works and what doesn't. I've been thinking about KW V2's but they are so expensive - all feedback I've been able to find is positive though (I'd bloody hope so!).

A more budget alternative I'm thiking of are BC's RA model (http://bcracing.com.au/zg-14-ra). I'm trying to find a review of them on a Volvo before I jump that way though. Part 2 is a thicker rear sway bar.

Once I've got that sorted I'll move on to wheels and tyres before I look at power enhancement.

Anyway that's it for me now. I'll post an update when I've made a decsion on the coilovers!

Cheers
My car - It's funny to see a post about from before I joined Ozvolvo!..... https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/2709/
sucksqueezebangblowcubic25bgpzfm142
«1345

Comments

  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    Bcs are not really worth it if they are the base model ones. You do get what you pay for there.
  • BC's are crap on the S40
    KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
    v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

    With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
    Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

    @AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

    Replace tyres with some RE003's

    If you want performance from the engine
    I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

    However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
    1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
    2. Volvo sprak plugs only
    3. Change out the angle gear oil
    4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
    5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
    6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
    7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part
    I think you need to add i was in an s80 with three wheels getting pulled backwards and was told to "hold on shit is about to get real".
    Vee_Quecubic25
  • That's what I figured. These are the mid spec ones (top spec is really to firm/its set for race use). I can't seem to find anyone who has used them though...
  • I've driven S40's with both V2 and V3
    Same spring rate just different dampening rates and single vs doubble adjustment from what I remember
    Both cars rode the same as my S40 with the B16 kit, just had slightly different shock tunning for getting the max out of the car on a serious circuit
  • BC's are crap on the S40
    KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
    v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

    With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
    Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

    @AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

    Replace tyres with some RE003's

    If you want performance from the engine
    I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

    However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
    1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
    2. Volvo sprak plugs only
    3. Change out the angle gear oil
    4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
    5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
    6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
    7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part

    Thanks for the advice. I'm doing most of that stage zero stuff over the next two weeks. I didn't have number 7 0n the list though so I'll take a look at that too.

    I'm kind of stumped about what to do with the suspension though... I think I might stick with the idea of the KW's... I don't mind if it's firm as it's a weekend play car only but I don't want it rattling my teeth out on evrery bump!
  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    What sort of money are the KWs?

    Also, manual T5 AWD wagon is a big win. I'm jealous.
    egads
  • BC's are crap on the S40
    KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
    v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

    With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
    Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

    @AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

    Replace tyres with some RE003's

    If you want performance from the engine
    I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

    However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
    1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
    2. Volvo sprak plugs only
    3. Change out the angle gear oil
    4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
    5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
    6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
    7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part

    Thanks for the advice. I'm doing most of that stage zero stuff over the next two weeks. I didn't have number 7 0n the list though so I'll take a look at that too.

    I'm kind of stumped about what to do with the suspension though... I think I might stick with the idea of the KW's... I don't mind if it's firm as it's a weekend play car only but I don't want it rattling my teeth out on evrery bump!

    If your sydney based your welcome to come drive my s40
  • What sort of money are the KWs?

    Also, manual T5 AWD wagon is a big win. I'm jealous.

    Cheers - it was hard to find!

    KW's are about $3K :astonished: I was really hoping to spend no more than $2K really.
  • BC's are crap on the S40
    KW v1 are tolerable on a road car
    v2/v3 are about the same as the B16kit I have in my s40 which is intolerable for 99% of people

    With the right spring rates and shocks, there is ZERO value in touching the sway bar, the only reason it sways slightly badly from the factory is due to the obscene height and soft spring rates
    Fix them and you discover that volvo got the sway bars dead on for a road car

    @AshDVS can supply some nifty lower control arm bushings that I highly reccomend

    Replace tyres with some RE003's

    If you want performance from the engine
    I'm going down the path of DO88 intercooler, doing my own intake and hoses and then someones tune for max power on the stock turbo after doing something with the **** exhaust and DP

    However... there is a pile of stage 0 stuff that should be done to the engine and AWD system first
    1. Ignore what volvo says about the timing belt, it should be done at 7 years or 100,000km, do the water pump and seals at the same time
    2. Volvo sprak plugs only
    3. Change out the angle gear oil
    4. Change out the haldex filter and oil
    5. Change out the rear diff oil (GL5)
    6. Change out the trans oil (Synthetic GL4!!!!, GL5 will kill the syncros)
    7. Replace the lower engine mount with the e-focus part

    Thanks for the advice. I'm doing most of that stage zero stuff over the next two weeks. I didn't have number 7 0n the list though so I'll take a look at that too.

    I'm kind of stumped about what to do with the suspension though... I think I might stick with the idea of the KW's... I don't mind if it's firm as it's a weekend play car only but I don't want it rattling my teeth out on evrery bump!

    If your sydney based your welcome to come drive my s40

    I appreciate the offer Philia - I might take you up on that some time :+1:
    Vee_Que
  • Nice looking car! We have a 2008 C30 T5 R-Design with the 6-speed manual - a joy to drive. Have the MTE tune from VP Tuning - great power and economy. I must do the timing belt this year - pushing 10 years is kinda scary!
    Vee_Que
  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    I know that they don't sound as cool as coilovers, but what about a set of Bilstein sport shocks?
    carnut222Vee_Quecubic25
  • I know that they don't sound as cool as coilovers, but what about a set of Bilstein sport shocks?

    Available for the front only

    Rears for an AWD are.... Stock... or... coilovers... effing sucks for choice some times
  • Rears rebuildable?
  • Rears rebuildable?

    The ones from Volvo? I would assume so but I doubt you could change the valving enough to make it work right
  • I know that they don't sound as cool as coilovers, but what about a set of Bilstein sport shocks?

    Available for the front only

    Rears for an AWD are.... Stock... or... coilovers... effing sucks for choice some times

    Bang on. I'd be happy for a set of sport springs and shocks if they made them (Other than Heico which are out of production). Choice is difficult... either it's expensive and probably alright or cheap and not cheerful...
    Vee_Que
  • Nice looking car! We have a 2008 C30 T5 R-Design with the 6-speed manual - a joy to drive. Have the MTE tune from VP Tuning - great power and economy. I must do the timing belt this year - pushing 10 years is kinda scary!

    Cheers! I lusted after a c30 when they first came out but with a couple of kids the V50 is somewhat more practical for my situation :) C30 is a great looking car though.
  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.
    I'd suggest calling Heasmans and/or Quadrant and asking about some custom Bilstein shocks. They will probably be expensive for "just" Bilsteins, but they should still be much cheaper than the KWs, and will be more what you want.
    egads
  • I'd suggest calling Heasmans and/or Quadrant and asking about some custom Bilstein shocks. They will probably be expensive for "just" Bilsteins, but they should still be much cheaper than the KWs, and will be more what you want.

    Not a bad idea. I did email Heasmans awhile ago and didnt get a reply. It's always different seeing someone in person or by phone. I havent heard of Quadrant but I'll check them out. Cheers
    Vee_Queegads
  • edited July 2017
    I fucking love the woodgrain. The fact that it is real wood gives me real wood :3 Creepyness aside, congrats on the rare find. Hopefully Ash can help you out with the suspension.
    Is the rear sway bar the same for the AWD model, or are they also different? If same, I'd also definitely change that when you get a chance.
    What were you thinking of doing in the way of engine mods?

    EDIT: If I had to get coils, I'd be getting Billies or nothing. I rode in a C30 with Billies and it was amazing. I've currently got B8's on the front, with Eibach springs, and I love it. Irrelevant to you though, as mine is FWD.
  • I fucking love the woodgrain. The fact that it is real wood gives me real wood :3 Creepyness aside, congrats on the rare find. Hopefully Ash can help you out with the suspension.
    Is the rear sway bar the same for the AWD model, or ar e they also different? If same, I'd also definitely change that when you get a chance.
    What were you thinking of doing in the way of engine mods?

    EDIT: If I had to get coils, I'd be getting Billies or nothing. I rode in a C30 with Billies and it was amazing. I've currently got B8's on the front, with Eibach springs, and I love it. Irrelevant to you though, as mine is FWD.

    Yeah the woodgrain has grown on me. I was thinking of switching it out for some carbonfibre stuff from Carbonfibre works but changed my mind (The real carbon stuff does look pretty sexy on a black interior though.....

    Not sure if the sway bars are different but figured I'll do the suspension first then see how it impacts its cornering behaviour before I switch it out. I am thinking about doing the LCA's whilst I'm looking at the suspension. The front end is pretty crashy but I'm not sure if that's the shocks or the LCA's (which I understand wear out quuickly on these cars). I need to do a bit more research on that aspect.

    Engine wise I'm not looking to go too crazy. I'm thinking of changing the DP and exhaust, putting on a Snaab intake pipe and a tune. It sounds like there aren't any gains to be had from switching out the air filter so I'll leave that as is. The only other things I'd consider is intercooler and maybe a Pumaspeed Plenum - I'm not sure of the gains to get out of those though either so there's more research to do yet. No rush on those as I want to get the handling and footwork sorted first up. A turbo upgrade would be nice but I think that might be overdoing it not to mention the fact that my wife would shit kittens at the cost! lol My ideal target would be about 200kw at the wheels. I'm not sure how far off I'd be with my intended list as it stands but I'm happy to chip away at it over time :)
Sign In or Register to comment.