89Estate
Hi all, my nephew bought a 89 240GL Estate B230F and I want to do an oil / filters change with him over the weekend to teach him some basics.
So my questions are -
Oil - 20-50? / preferred brand? Synth / Mineral? Additives?
Oil Filter? - Correct Replacement #
Air filter? - Correct Replacement # (are these paper jobs or are they cleaned and reused?
Fuel Filter (Fuel Injected)-? Correct Replacement # (is this at the back? / are they replaced or?
Anything else I should check / replace as routine maintenance / emission control thingy? I'm assuming the ball joints haven't grease nipples etc.
Thanks in advance
familyman
OIl filter = Z89A
Air filter = A481
The typical air filter is paper, but you can buy the reusable type. Repco, Supercheap... I forget now which one it was said they could get it in. Most people don't bother and just use paper. If the filter isn't too bad, you can blast dust out of the paper ones a couple of times with compressed air, if you have a compressor with blower attachment.
If the fuel filter isn't glaring at you on the firewall under the hood, then it will be under the car near the left rear wheel. Make sure you use TWO spanners. i.e. Don't tighten the fuel line onto the filter using just one spanner - or you can split the 'banjo' fitting, which is expensive. (It vaguely resembles a banjo in shape.) You basically tighten the metal fitting into the filter first. Then hold that fitting in one position with spanner #1, while you tighten the fuel line nut onto the fitting using spanner #2. (Instead of tightening the fuel line nut against the fitting with one spanner until the banjo fitting cracks.)
Because of this, it can be a bit tricky for some people the first time. There's videos on youtube - at least there used to be. (Just type in something like, "Replacing fuel filter on Volvo 240".) Oh, and the fuel filter comes with new copper washers - just take note of what order the old ones come off, and put the new ones on the same. You have to 'crush' them a little when tightening to make a good seal - so the fitting doesn't leak fuel. (You check for leaks after fitting by looking/wrapping your finger around the joins, checking for wet fuel.)
Because of how the filter mounts into a bracket, some people find removing the bracket is easier. They hang it from a coathanger under the car to make access easier - remove/replace the filter - then reattach the bracket to the car. Oh - and remove the battery +ve terminal first to be safe, or remove the fuel pump fuse. Fuses are near the front passenger's knee behind a plastic plate.
Take an ice cream container under, to catch the fuel that runs out when you crack the seal.
The fuel filter can have various part numbers. But Bosch "0 450 905 601" or just "0450905601" is probably it. Auto stores have books in the filter section to check for certain. Or read the number on the old filter by peering in from just in front of the driver side rear wheel, or of course, get under the car.
I've seen balljoints both with, and without, grease nipples.
Other things:
* Clean the flame trap. Watch this:
* Clean any oil out of the bottom of the air filter holder and/or hoses going in/out of it.
* Check timing belt by removing the cover on the front of the engine. If that has cracks in the surface, definitely replace. But if you're not sure how old it is, replace it anyway. Better than it snapping leaving the car stranded.
* There's also an idler pulley inside there, that puts tension on the timing belt. Some people change that every time they swap the belt.
* Look for oil leaks. There's about 3 seals on the front of the engine, some on the back, and the "rear main seal" between the engine and gearbox is a common leak point. There's also a half-moon shaped bung in the back of the engine, between the cam cover and engine head. If the flame trap in the video above gets blocked, and/or that bung goes soft, pressure can blow it out and/or force oil past it.
* Check the engine mounts are still actually attached to their metal discs by revving the engine while you watch them. If they're broken you see their rubbers lift up off their plate. Check they haven't turned to a soft jelly consistancy. The driver side in particular, people spill oil on it when changing the oil filter, which can ruin it. (When changing the filter, I put plastic bags under the filter to catch any oil drips. Removing the +ve battery terminal first is a good idea too. Because the terminal on the back is very close to the oil filter, so it's easy to short out the alternator, possibly killing its diodes when removing the old oil filter.
* Similar to the engine mounts going soft, the gearbox also has one you can only see when under the car. Because oil travels backwards, this can often be soaked with oil and going soft too.
Someone else can suggest oil type. I bought a dozen 5L bottles of Magnatec a few years ago, and I'm still using that up, lol.
Ex850R
Great idea to teach them on this vehicle!
If you like cheaper parts go to FCP, Rockauto or partsforvolvoonline or volvoparts etc, getting them cheap offsets the postage that while not cheap works out well.
Lob in a slab of filters for future use as some here do.
Check suspension bushes and, listen for knocking, and @AshDVS is our suspension GURU, he can help here.
Pix please!?
Have fun.
L.
240
What I would do is go to FCPeuro, and put in a big order (including a couple of spare oil filters). They have Mann filters (which are OEM Volvo ones and the best ones to use) for like $4 each.
I would get:
-Oil filter
-Air filter
-Fuel filter
-A couple of spare flame trap sets (they're cheap and easy to replace)
-Oil vent box/oil trap
-Spark plugs & Leads
-Distributor rotor & cap
-Fuel filter washers & sump plug washers
-Throttle body gasket (doesn't hurt to get a couple of spares)
You should also remove & clean the Throttle Body with some carby cleaner. Also clean all its associated hoses at the same time.
With the fuel filter - on your model it will be under the car near the passenger side rear wheel. Don't fall into the same trap I fell into - basically you need two very big spanners (can't remember exact sizes, but measure, because I had to actually buy a spanner specially for the job). You basically put one spanner on the hex part of one end of the filter, and the other on the fitting that's connected to the filter, and 'pull' them together - then repeat on the other end. That is the only way you'll get it off.
The oil vent box is worthwhile doing as your old one will be blocked up, and replacing it will prevent future oil leaks. There are online guides, but I did it a few months back by taking off the throttle body & a bunch of hoses, unbolting a wiring loon that's attached to it, unbolting the unit itself and that was it. Just be careful NOT to pull out the small hose that it slots into, that sits in the engine block, if you do, you have to remove the sump to re fit it.
Engine oil - best stuff to use is Penrite HPR-15. If you can't afford it, then a decent brand of 15W-50 should be OK. In summer you can get away with thicker, in winter you can get away with a bit thinner. (I'm running 10W-40 synthetic at the moment just because it's what I had, it burns a bit but isn't too bad.)
Dauntless
Oil - I prefer 15W-40. Any name brand will be fine, though I use Mobil Delvac MX.
Oil Filter- I prefer to use Mann W917. If using Ryco, Z9 will fit. Larger filter area than Z89A and about half the price.
Air filter - Paper filter, I'd replace now and clean next service.
Fuel Filter - I'd replace now, not sure what the interval is but they do last a while.
Philia_Bear
Oil
Penrite hpr10 10w50
familyman
Are you guys finding it's really cheaper to buy consumable things overseas though? Like oil filters, air filters, sparkplugs, dist. cap, leads? Because every time I've checked in the past, I enter them in a spreadsheet, work out what each item will cost, and what it's postage will cost. After adding po$tage plus the currency conversion - it was less/same/slightly more by a couple of $... to buy them here. (For example, on ebay, or during Repco or Supercheap %-off sales.)
On FCP Z89A oil filters are $5.59 USD, which = about $7.60 AUD. And that's before paying postage. SCA's site only shows one Ryco Z89A @ $15.99. But my local SCA sells a second cheaper type. I forget the price, but I think it was somewhere between $8-$12.
Edit: Just noticed the Ryco Z9 Dauntless suggested is only $9 from Supercheap. The difference between $9 and $7.60 = $1.40. I'm open to correction, but the extra cost of shipping filters from the USA will cost more than $1.40 each.
I found a similar result with the air filter. (I think the air filter was actually cheaper here, than from the USA, but not sure where. Probably SCA or ebay.) Anyway, add postage to that $7.60 oil filter from the USA, and you'll see what I mean.
Of course any saving varies depending on what other items you get. e.g. You might being saving $100 on a particular part, which makes it worth getting a bunch of other stuff in one box.) But filters, rotor, cap, leads... I found it was all similar prices here - and you just walk into a store and get it - or from people on this site who sell parts, like Ash.
Repco has sales every few months where they discount oil, plus get a free oil filter. Obviously it's not cheaper to buy oil from overseas (if it were even possible due to airline rules, which I doubt). So you have to buy oil sometime. So why not buy several bottles (not a dozen like me, lol) when it's on sale anyway, when you're also going to receive a free filter. For the first one or two changes it's easier to walk into the SCA store and get 1 of the cheap ones. For later oil changes, you then use the ones you bought in advance.
Btw... I've owned (at least one) 240 since 1993. I've never needed to replace a flame trap. I just clean it with degreaser.
There's videos for the things mentioned here, on youtube. e.g.
Be gentle with the large accordian-style hose under the throttle body if you clean that. (Don't bend it harshly, or different to its natural curve/angle.) At about 1:33 in that video, that guy just rips it off - but I've split two before and I was being a lot more gentle than that.
Since you mentioned nothing actually wrong with how the car runs, I only mentioned the most common things. But you could add to the list forever. Another fairly common two are running something like "seafoam" through the engine and cleaning the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor with a can of spray cleaner:
240
Every time I've bought something from FCP (only 3 or 4 times so far) it has been either when I also bought a bunch of other stuff which was significantly cheaper there than over here, or when I've also bought other stuff that is only available overseas.
Which has made it affordable. Eg last year I made an order for about $700 after postage and currency conversion, which would have cost over $1000 here.
That being said, supporting local retail is always a good idea.
89Estate
Hey! Thankyou everyone for your detailed and comprehensive info - very generous! All your contributions regarding maintenance will be addressed over time and I think this will be a great project for him and I. Lot's of things to do and I'll be able to check over the car properly on the weekend to see where it's at as a starting point and find out if it has any service history. I still have fond memories of my 740GLE.
Ex850R
89Estate;107413 wroteHey! I still have fond memories of my 740GLE.
Well i can see a few more Volvo in your future , the bug has bitten!
Vee_Que
The thing with buying the cheapest filter vs the mann brand ones is quality, they are better made and last longer before collapsing. So you can spreadsheet it all you need. But your comparing shit to good quality.
jlfents
Is Ryco a garbage?
Dauntless
I try to run genuine Volvo/Toyota/Subaru filters in my vehicles where possible. I've seen a bit of online evidence that Ryco (and most aftermarket filters) aren't up to scratch, however I've used plenty of them in the past with no issues.
Aftermarket filters aren't always much cheaper, so it's worth doing your own research. For my LandCruiser, a Z334 from Supercheap is $38. I recently bought 4x genuine (made in Japan) filters from the local Toyota dealer for $160.
Vee_Que
jlfents;107455 wroteIs Ryco a garbage?
Ryco is fine, its the cheaper brands like wesfil and cooper that aren't that great.
89Estate
Very good cars Volvos. My first experience was my ex's uncle who loved them. I remember helping him on several occasions as he had a few in the backyard and surprised to see these massive metal rods in the doors to stop the passenger compartment from concertinering. He put one together for her a manual 240 which was a great driver. The second one he fixed for her was another manual 240 but a sportier one with alloys. Then when my daughter was born I got a 740gle estate as you do. Great car - previous owner was a doctor so it was well looked after and decent leather interior - very robust car to have for a newborn. I gave it to my ex and she gave it to her son who drove it into the ground as he couldn't afford to fix it. It's on a farm somewhere in Daylesford probably now but that was a few years ago.
jamesinc
15W40. I use Valvoline semi-synthetic. I would only go to 20W- if there was audible slap or something.
89Estate
Hi all, thanks for your help the oil change went without a hitch. My nephew enjoyed learning a bit about his car and there's a few things noted that need addressing from the check over - one being the air filter housing is broken at the bottom so he's getting one from the wreckers and we'll fit that as some stage. Cheers!
Ex850R
Excellent. Always good to teach and learn on the job.
If you find a good car at Wreckers let us know!