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More Kjet issues, B28E

RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
edited April 25 in Questions & Troubleshooting 5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
I looked long and hard at @gavinh 's B28E KJet thread ( https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/5903/b28e-kjet/p1 )and was very tempted to hijack it but my problem seems to be slightly different.

I pulled the 262 out of mothballs and have decided to get it on the road. I estimate it has been sitting for approx an eternity. I, as Gav did, started with the basics. I drained and flushed the fuel tank and lines, replaced both fuel pumps and the filter and now have fuel at the injectors. I have not yet replaced the cap, rotor, leads or plugs but they all look to be in good shape and the leads test ok. I seem to have reasonable spark at the plugs.

I have not been able to get it to start, it coughs and tries to fire but will not run.

Please bear in mind I am a genuine Kjet noob.

Does the main pump run the whole time the engine is cranking and/or running? While the tank pump does this I cannot get the main pump to run without bringing it at the fuse. I assume my pump relay may be faulty, if this is the case I can replace it easy enough.

With both pumps running (bridged at the fuse), engine off and injector 1 pulled out and laying across the rocker cover it is spraying fuel. I assume it shouldn't be... before rushing in and blaming injectors I wanted to make sure that the pump is intended to run the whole time, my other thought is that I may have excessive fuel pressure, perhaps from a faulty regulator or blocked return line. I have not yet tested it.

I have not looked into the fuel distributor/regulator, have never had one apart. Can something go wrong in there that causes the injectors to spray despite there being no airflow?

Looking for direction at the moment.

164fencesignature.jpg?m=1390588660

Current: 1966 120 wagon, 1970 162, 1973 164E + supercharger, 1980 262C, 1998 C70 T5 AWD Coupe, 2009 XC70 D5 LE
Previous: 1979 242GT, 1984 265GLE, 1985 740T, 1996 850R wagon, 1996 850AWD Manual among others
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Comments

  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    276 / 31joined Oct 2015
    You could have hijacked my thread, the more information the better, have you checked all the terminals for the correct voltage at the bosch control unit, coil and your getting feed back from the impulse sensor, also I replaced the plugs, as you they seemed alright but soon as I replaced them it made a better difference and any cracked or perishing vacuum hoses should be replaced as they are A c#@t when it comes to smooth running. A
    On a slightly different note, there is a character on turbobricks John lane who seems to know the ins and outs on prv like the dark of his hand as well as the Wealth of info on this site.
    Vee_Que
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Sydney NSW
    6338 / 356joined Jul 2013
    Second, kjet is really sensitive to vac leaks. Worth going over.

    With the pump on and no airflow going past the fuel distributor, there shouldn't be any fuel coming out the injector.
    Vee_Que
  • edited February 17 233 / 20joined Jan 2016
    No it shouldn't flow. Eternity wouldn't be friendly to them.

    The injectors should spray only when the AFM plate moves and then very fine mist. Check you tube for a vid (some good merc ones).

    I have replaced a few from a donor car - they can be recoverable with cleaning.




    You get the idea - but need to work through a series of vids.
    Vee_Que
  • 277 / 19joined Nov 2015
    In the fuel distribution block you have a control plunger, I'll guarantee that is stuck and that's why your getting spray when the fuel pumps are running without touching the air sensor plate.
    Someone had this issue in Tassie, yellow wagon?? showed what to do and more importantly what NOT to do.
    bgpzfm142Vee_Que
  • 233 / 20joined Jan 2016
    In the fuel distribution block you have a control plunger, I'll guarantee that is stuck and that's why your getting spray when the fuel pumps are running without touching the air sensor plate.
    Someone had this issue in Tassie, yellow wagon?? showed what to do and more importantly what NOT to do.

    This - don't use anything other than light figure pressure when moving the plate.
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    Thanks all for the advice. Will go digging tomorrow..
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    So some more testing today.

    I replaced the cap, rotor, leads and plugs to eliminate ignition issues.

    With the fuel pump fuses removed the engine cranks, starts and runs for a second, then obviously stalls as it runs out of fuel and stops.

    With the fuses in the engine will start, run for a small period of time, flood and stall.

    Pull the fuses out again and it will clear the flood and run for a couple of seconds..... etc.


    I checked the fuel return line and it is clear.

    As I pointed out the other day, manually running the fuel pumps does cause the injectors to spray a little..

    I have not yet touched the fuel distributor but everything suggests that it has an issue. I have not studied how these things work exactly, will get studying now. I guess it could also be excessive fuel pressure (faulty regulator).

    I wonder if one from a B28 is the same as the one fitted to the B27? I have a spare if they are interchangeable.






  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Sydney NSW
    6338 / 356joined Jul 2013
    @Rob they're pretty straightforward. There's an adjuster screw. You'll want to replace the cork gasket if you're opening it up.
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    FIXED

    replaced the fuel distributor with a known good second hand item and it runs like a dream...
    bgpzfm142Vee_Que
  • gavinhGav (@gavinh) Parmelia, Perth
    276 / 31joined Oct 2015
    Sound, I wish I had a spare B28 engine in my shed
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    ok, so I am still having trouble with this thing.

    It is a little tough to start but after it does it idles perfectly. Light to medium acceleration is fine but any more than that it coughs and splutters.

    It does this hot or cold.

    not sure what is going on with it.
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    8947 / 154joined Jul 2013
    This sounds like the issue I had with my old 245.
    Turns out it was a cracked fuel distributor that couldn't be faulted by a couple of mechanics, John at Voldat had it a short time and diagnosed it, experience counts!
    A new one was put in I believe, no issues again!

    Wish I kept that beasty...
    Spac -
    "High speed rail, Melbourne to Brisvegas!
    I retain a deep suspicion, but maybe these shitcunts will actually manage to do something not entirely shit?"
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    control pressure regulator failure .

    now sorted.
    bgpzfm142egadsVee_Que
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    Well I thought it was sorted.

    It starts, idles and runs beautifully. A little hesitant when freezing cold but within a few seconds it is nice. It drives nicely when cold/warming up... nice and smooth with plenty of power (well as much as you would expect from a B28E) but will not rev or make power under load when it warms up. It starts as a hesitation and high revs/load and develops downward into a misfire/pop when the accelerator is pushed with any kind of effort. After a 10km drive it will pull about 65km/h flat out. It will always idle nice, free rev in neutral, load up in drive with a foot on the brake and pull under load to about 1800rpm. If I let it cool down for an hour or so it comes good again.

    Car sat for many years before I started on it.

    I have cleaned and flushed the tank and fuel lines (including the return) replaced both pumps, replaced the fuel distributor and WUR with known good ones, replaced the entire engine wiring harness, plugs are new, leads test fine, cap and rotor are not new but look close to it. Timing is spot on. All vacuum hoses have been replaced. I have checked the fuel filter and am no longer getting any crap in it.

    I am sure the engine is mechanically good, it has no rattles, oil is clean, coolant is clean and bubble free, no evidence of corrosion in the cooling system (haven't had heads off), and it pulls nicely when it is cold.

    I am stumped.
  • egadsegads (@egads) Yass NSW
    5222 / 152joined Jul 2013
    Down to mad guesses but maybe cat? Do you have a wideband to chuck on?
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    1980. no cat on this one.

    I am up for mad guesses.
  • egadsegads (@egads) Yass NSW
    5222 / 152joined Jul 2013
    Crimped exhaust somewhere?

    Done the seals on the injectors in case you have unmetered air coming in there?
  • RobRob (@Rob) - Lockyer Valley, SE Qld
    5456 / 510joined Jul 2013
    exhaust looks clean, i guess it is possible the muffler is blocked
  • 380 / 24joined Feb 2015
    Verify the timing mark at crank advances when revved.
    Find someone with kjet gauge and 3 way valve to test the fuel pump pressure and the control pressure. It's a good feeling knowing they are correct and dead stable.
    The fuel accumulator located after the main pump can leak and this can upset the running pressure to the system also.
    242GT Turbo, 940, 850 T-5R, SLK, +++
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.
    6251 / 26joined Jul 2013
    Head gasket. Or intake gasket leaks as they are a rubber o ring. But head gasket after that.

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