tissueboxonwheels
Pardon me if this has been asked before.
I went to Autobarn to buy some oil for my 240. I usually get Castrol 20w/50.
The Autobarn rep was trying to steer me to the Penrite oil series which recommended a synthetic oil. a (correction 15W/60)
I like the idea but I wasn't sure about changing from an organic oil to a synthetic. In my overthinking mind I assumed I also have to do an engine oil flush. What if some oil was left behind etc...
Anyone else tried the Penrite synthetic?
Philia_Bear
Penrite HPR10 10w50 is the best stuff
20w50 is way to effing thick for melb climate
bigal
Penrite is generally all I use in my fleet.. apart from the 145. It is a little risky putting full synth in an older engine that was only ever run on dino oil is what I've always been told. Old gaskets n seals are the issue I hear. The full can clean/de-gunk those old seals so well then find its way to form a leak through the aged seal.
I was freakin a bit when I put it in the 911.. "oh god will this now cause some leaks".. luckily no issues. But the 911 engine had new seals put through it not long before I got it so less of a risk.
I don't normally bother with flushes unless the old oil is very very old.
Even more confused now? :-)
Angus242164
15W40 or 20W50, whatever brand you prefer (a few brands share production facilities anyway), doesn't matter too much whether it's syn, semi-syn or out of the ground.
If you suspect the engine has a bit of sludge buildup (look in the oil filler cap and see how clean everything looks) then the thing to avoid is oils with a lot of detergents in them, eg: diesel oils. Depending on how solid the sludge is, they can break it up and it can clog the oil pump pickup screen and cause a loss of oil pressure.
Oil grade and type shouldn't affect seals or gaskets, unless they're already leaking, in which case thinner oil may make leaks a bit worse.
Sticking to a regular oil and filter change interval is vastly more important than brand or exact grade.
volvodriverman
Another vote for penrite 10w50 here. Their extra 10 or whatever it's called is better again but I suspect not necessary in a stock NA engine 240.
It's doing a good job or wringing more life from the rangie, noticable improvement in cold start oil pressure.
Vee_Que
I would use hpr15 - 15w50, with 40 degrees days the slightly heavier weight is needed.
robv
The man at Autobarn gave u good advise. Flushing is a good idea if you know you have a sludgy engine. If your engine is in good condition and internally clean just change your oil when it's hot.
Synthetic oils as a rule keep things cleaner.
I wouldn't use Castro oil in my cars
Ex850R
This thread is of no use to the poster, all conflicting advice.
Just like turbobricks!
I love it.
carnut1100
First of all, cheap oil changed often is better than great oil left to fester...
When i was running a Redblock daily I did changes every 5k and used oil that was not the cheapest crap but wasn't top shelf either.
Change often and flushing is not needed.
Penrite seems to be a good brand you can't go wrong with.
240Joe
I've always used Penrite HPR 15 15W-50 (now 60) in my 240s for both daily driving and motorkhanas/autocrosses seeing high RPM a lot, and haven't had any issues.
jamesinc
@tissueboxonwheels I think any reputable oil brand will be fine. 20W50 is quite thick. Unless your engine is very worn, I'd step down to 15W50. Penrite semi-synthetic oil is nice, but so is Nulon, Valvoline, etc, and I think officially Volvo recommend Valvoline or Castrol.
tissueboxonwheels
We've always been using Castrol. The standard 20w/50 even in one of my Vintage cars. I'll look into getting a thinner oil like a 15w/40.
I'd like to do more engine oil changes though. But if I do. Do I also have to change the canister filter as well ?
Angus242164
carnut1100;91310 wroteFirst of all, cheap oil changed often is better than great oil left to fester...
Some of the best advice so far.
tissueboxonwheels;91319 wroteI'd like to do more engine oil changes though. But if I do. Do I also have to change the canister filter as well ?
Standard practice is to change the filter whenever changing the oil, I personally think that changing the oil any more regularly than 10,000km intervals isn't necessary, unless the car sees very heavy usage eg: racing.
However you could do oil and filter every 10k, with an oil only change every 5k.
tissueboxonwheels
Has anyone done an engine oil flush using diesel or kerosene? I've heard it mentioned several times before. I'm just wondering what experiences members have?
egads
ATF is safer if you want cheap
Philia_Bear
egads;91329 wroteATF is safer if you want cheap
10w30 with friction modifier and detergents and some red dye
Fantastic stuff for cleaning engines with
Nosi
I suggest that you don't risk putting diesel, ATF or kero through an engine to 'flush' it. - unless you are planning to scrap that engine.
The safest thing to put in any engine IMO is the 'correct' oil. I believe in the case of most Volvos, that will be 10w-30. if higher mileage, then go to 15w40. ( 200 000 km + )
the correct oil, at regular intervals ( 10 000 km or so ) will keep your engine happy. you will also then be happy.
Keep in mind that the temperature of a healthy engine is governed by the thermostat. ( cooling system )
:)
These comments are based on my personal experience and testing.
robv
U don't actually replace the oil. With diesel, u either put 1/2 a litre in and warm the engine up and drain, or run Diesel engine oil because of its higher detergent levels.
tissueboxonwheels
What is ATF?
robv
Automatic transmission fluid, never put it in an engine!!!