nerfherder wrote
so my question is:
whats involved in swapping the B23 from a '83 240 to a '74 144? is it a common swap and is there anyone on here who has done it and can give me some first hand advice?
First of all before I go off into TL; DR land, welcome. I'm in the process of doing a pair of swaps into a pair of 142s, but I'm going totally radical on that project and it's going to take as long as it will take. (B230 with 16V head, turbo, T5 gearbox, etc) I am also planning something less radical for a 74 145, which may simply be a B230 and AW71L, but although I've done the homework, I haven't decided on it yet (not until the bodywork's complete, at least). With the 145, I may even end up keeping the B20 - the only firm decision is that the BW35 is getting the boot and an AW71L is going in its place.
Some places you need to know about are-
Genuine Classic Parts -
http://gcp.se/
This is where to start - you can download the parts catalog from there in PDF.
VP Autoparts -
http://vp-autoparts.se/
CVI Automotive -
http://www.cvi-automotive.se/
Swedish Treasures -
http://www.swedishtreasures.com/
Hi Performance Auto Parts -
http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/
FCP Euro -
https://www.fcpeuro.com/
Volvo Parts Webstore -
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/
http://www.volvo1800-120parts.com.au/
You'll find most of what you need at these places. It pays to check prices at each, as no single outlet offers the best price on every item. The Volvo Parts Webstore, even though it's in the USA, offers better prices than the local dealers - i.e they don't have the hide to ask $47 for a single head bolt, meaning I got a whole set from the US, with shipping, for half of the price the Australian dealer wanted for half the bolts.
These sites offer PDF downloads of the Greenbooks (Volvo-speak for 'factory workshop manuals'):
http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/100-series/?browse=1974+Service+Manual
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/
Vendors to avoid -
* John Parker, dba "V Performance " aka "Vintage Performance Developments' aka "Vintage Volvo Performance'
* Robert Jackson, dba "Mad Volvos Only" aka "Swedish Ops"
Both of these US-based operations produce large amounts of tempting eye candy for the internet, but both have failed to deliver goods and services after money has been paid to them in good faith by scores of people.
Things to consider before doing a B20 to B230 swap:
- Do you want the engine to sit upright or at an angle?
- What transmission do you plan to use?
- What fuel system do you plan to use? (K-Jet / LH2.2 / LH 2.4 / carbs)
- NA or turbo?
- Do you plan to keep the car, use the car, show the car, or flip the car?
Answering the last question first: If the car has low km and is in good condition other than the engine, it may be worth considering keeping the car original and doing a repair on the B20E engine, thus making the car more attractive to collectors. B20 engines aren't rocket science, and nearly all its components are still available.
However if you're really keen to swap the engine, www.yoshifab.com sell adapter plates to convert B20 engine mounts to fit B23 / B230. Cost = $75 USD.
http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=101
Next, the transmission - if you choose to keep that car an automatic, you'd be best off mounting the replacement engine at an angle and putting an AW71L auto box from a 740 behind it. To do this swap, it would be ideal to obtain the shift lever and mechanism from a 240 which had a AW70 or AW71 in it, as the existing BW35 linkages won't match up without modification. You will also need to check the length of the front tailshaft, modify the dipstick tube, modify the gearbox mounting, and add a relay for the AW71L's overdrive. The Blaaarg Wormer 35 epitomises everything that is bad about auto transmissions and liberating the 144 of it would be doing the car an act of kindness.
If you wanted to go for a manual transmission, you could fit a Tremec T5 from an EA to EL Ford behind the B23 / B230.
@Vee_Que on this board sells a very reasonably-priced adapter plate, which allows you to fit the T5 gearbox to a Volvo M46 bellhousing, and then place it behind the B23 /B230 engine. Volvo's original B23 / B230 gearboxes, the M45 (4 speed) / M46 (4 + overdrive) and M47 (5 speed) are around, but they're getting hard to find now, and hideously expensive to restore and repair. Harder to find are manual pedal boxes for 140s of that vintage.
You will also need a clutch (best if VQ advises you there) and a suitable flywheel... which brings us to the next consideration - that being the fuel system.
If you plan to grab a B230 engine and all the bits from a late 240 or 740 with LH2.4 injection, you will need an LH2.4 flywheel, as the EFI computer obtains a timing signal via the drilled-out markings on the flywheel. If you're going to use carbs (which I personally despise, but each to their own) your choice of flywheel is less critical. Carb kits are available to fit B23 / B230 engines. But if you're thinking of junking the EFI system to add carbs, you'll have to think about how you're going to do the engine;s ignition (the latter-day B230s have mostly integrated the ignition and fuel injection functions). If you plan to use a standard B230F manifold, you may need to cut and shut the inlet manifold so that the throttle body doesn't belt the brake booster.
Regardless of carbs or LH2.2. or LH.2.4, you will also need to change the fuel pump. K-Jet on the 140s operates at a different pressure to the latter day LH systems and is far too high pressure for carbs.
As Rob has mentioned, the B20 and B23 / B230 sump pans are interchangeable if you plan to mount the replacement engine upright. BUT the neck of the oil pump in the replacement engine will need modification.
If planning to turbo the B23 / B230 engine, I would mount the engine upright, because it will be an impossibly tight fit otherwise to fit the required exhaust manifolding without fouling the steering shaft., and a custom exhaust header will be needed.
And this is only the beginning! There is much other minute to consider- e.g. speedo connection, throttle cables, etc etc. Depends how big or small you wish to make the project.
If on the other hand you were thinking of restoring the B20E, you're not going to have to worry about most of this.
The 1974 version of the B20E uses an 8-bolt crank and has similar conrod and main bearing dimensions to the later B21 engine, and already has a neoprene timing case seal and rear main oil seal, not the old Magic Felt seals. So there's a good basis to start with. It may be worth whipping out the engine and finding the source of the clunking noise before committing to an engine swap.
It will be interesting to follow your progress on this car.