GingerNinja
I recently picked up a 240 that's had a B230FT running LH2.2 put into it. It ran really well for about a week but has developed a problem now.
At idle the engine runs fine but put your foot down and it becomes a stumbling, spluttering mess. Take your foot off it and it settles back to a normal idle. It happened while I was trying to pull onto the highway and I had to pull over to the side as the car would hardly move once it started to run rough. I manged to get it onto the highway and home by waiting for it to warm right up then flooring it. It spluttered its way up the rev range and then lit the rears and we were away. It then ran fine for the 15km home on the highway and in city traffic.
I spent today tidying up some of the dodgy wiring around the engine bay but that hasn't helped. I tired to drive it this afternoon and the problem is back.
Should I be looking at the MAF? or the throttle position sensor? O2 sensor? I have another 240 running a B230F on LH2.2 that I can borrow parts to test if some of those are compatible.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
VPT02
Hi GingerNinja,
Sounds like leads / cap / rotor button issue they way you explain it
Anthony
Could be air related - not being measured correctly or a more than likely a big leak thru a cracked hose.
Slowbrick
I would be 90% its air related. I also have an LH2.2 +T and one thing that will upset LH2.2 more than anything is an air leak. An easy way to test is to unplug the AMM and see if its idles smooth. You can even rev it gently up without the AMM. If you plug it back in and it turns into a pig then you have found your problem. Either there is a large air leak after the turbo or the AMM itself is dead.
GingerNinja
Thanks. I'll try these things today. I've got another 007 MAF to clean up and try and I'll make a valve cap for the turbo so I can pressurise the intake and see if it leaks.
Are the block mounted distributor rotors and caps any different for turbo or N/A?
Slowbrick
Dizzy is the same and should be using EZK 117 for the ignition.
Vee_Que
Id pick the amm or distributor sensor wiring..
GingerNinja
Today I put in a new distributor cap and rotor but no change. I didn't check the wiring though.
I tried removing the AMM and it still idles ok. It idles smoother with it plugged in though.
I made a cap for the turbo inlet with a bike valve in it. I pressurised the system and when I spray soapy water it bubbles out from the joint between the CBV and the compressor housing. I removed the CBV and there's a lot of oily black carbon goodness in there. Could this be what's causing the issues? A CBV that doesn't seal shut properly? The o-ring seems hard as hell but I can't open anything to clean it.
volvodriverman
Plugs, leads, cap & rotor were all near new. The one time it did this (other than coming back from the national meet) wiggling the wiring into the maf sensor saw it come good & never do it again.
It's likely that as the maf sensor isn't brilliantly secured a wire has broken or a plug or connector in the plug has pulled loose. I'd say it's the same gremlin that afflicts the 740's.
GingerNinja
I opened up the insulation around the MAF plug and had a look at all the wiring there. It seemed to be well connected but I could try rewiring that. Or at least double checking it again.
volvodriverman
Weird. I'm down south a few days for mofo so can come have a look if you want?
Slowbrick
Is this your old blue wagon volvodriver?
volvodriverman
Sure is
GingerNinja
I tried the other 007 MAF but the car wouldn't run at all with that one. It would start up but then only idle for a second or two before it died.
volvodriverman
I'll see if I've got any more...
Slowbrick
Ok so you have found that the AMM has a profound effect on how the car runs. Something doesnt quite add up here though. You said that it ran rougher with the AMM unplugged than with it plugged in but yet the AMM is still junk. It should idle nearly like glass with the AMM unplugged if everything else is working.
What you need to do now is unplug everything but the O2 sensor. Unplug the TPS, the IAC, the AMM and the CTS. Start the car and note how it runs. It wont rev cleanly or even idle nicely but it should run. Next plug back in your TPS. Make sure you have the right plug and are not using the IAC plug. These two are physically the same but are not interchangeable. While you are at the tps it will be a good time to check it. It should click as soon as you crack the throttle and click when the throttle is returned to close. If it doesnt then adjust accordingly.
Next plug in your CTS. Start the car and note how it runs. Run it till it gets warm and see if the way it runs changes. This is a rough way to check the CTS but if there is no change then it most likely isnt the issue.
Now plug in your AMM. This will be the biggie. If it dies or wont start then chances are something here is not quite right. Make sure you have it facing the correct way as it does only go one way.
Finally plug back in your IAC. It should idle nice by now if nothing else is wrong.
The purpose of this test is to see if you can identify the input that is causing the incorrect reading to the ECU. LH2.2 is a very simple ECU and relies reasonably heavily on the correctness of the inputs it gets.
Another thing to check is the condition of the wiring INSIDE the engine bay bulkhead. Commonly the wiring here is corroded and will give whacked signals to the ECU.
You checked for vac leaks and didnt really find any apart from the CBV. This may cause a slight rich condition on boost but shouldnt be enough to make the car undriveable.
GingerNinja
Brilliant, thanks. I'll try all those things next.
Vee_Que
They never idle like glass Slowbrick.... They idle like a bloody tractor. Every single one I've worked on with lh 2.2.
He has forgotten the wiring to the distributor though, I replaced my wiring from the distributor hall effect sensor to near the firewall and lots of driving issues left.. But my car also runs worse with the amm disconnected. as does my 760 v6, or other 740ts....
Slowbrick
You should have seen how mine ran with the VX3 cam. Idled and revved like glass bruh. Dad's 87 also idles damn smooth too. They wouldnt release a car that is uncomfortable for its users. It may not be 1uz smooth but a healthy B230 should idle smoothly.
Vee_Que
Yeah.. Non turbo stock b230 is different, they still rock a bit even compared with modern diesel cars and utes. But my sample size is bigger too I suspect.