paul_t4
Where would I be able to obtain a set of oversized Pistons for an s40 t4 b4194t motor? Had a bit more than a desirable amount of piston slap when I had the head off a year ago and figured the car has been good to me so I might start spending some money on it soon.
Ps, how the hell did I only just find this forum after 12 months of owning the car?
Cheers Paul
Vee_Que
Hello. Do you receive the volvo clubs of the various states newsletters?
Never heard of the white block getting piston slap. Do fcp groton sell them? Keep in mind they are a modular motor and the pistons will match a 5cyl too..
egads
I think viva performance sell sets.
AshDVS
We sell oversized pistons for these too, guys. ;)
egads
:oops:
egads
Also, on too many forums and that isn't an emoticon here!
AshDVS
bahaha!
We do off-the-shelf Mahle as well as a couple of others, including Wiseco and can arrange custom built pistons to spec.
Thats the end of my shameless plugging for the day. :)
Philia_Bear
Uhhh....
There is a very limited amount you can bore the cylinder before you need to insert a new liner
Your much much better off just finding a better block and using it from a cost perspective
paul_t4
@Vee_Que Nah I'm not a part of any clubs at the moment.
The engine has overheated a few times in its lifetime so it would probably explain why it's not common to have it happen ;)
@AshDVS what sort of pricing would I be looking at for a set of of the shelf oversized Pistons?
@Philia_Bear I think you might be thinking of the slightly larger capacity 1948cc engine with vvt. My car was fitted with the non vvt 1855cc engine which has the thicker liners and is less prone to splitting the bores
AshDVS
You have PM.
Philia_Bear
Im not
The sleves are stupidly thin either way
as your talking about it having a hole extra 1mm of thickness...
machine work and reassembly etc will be way over a grand and mean pulling the motor
Finding a good runniner will be cheaper
Also... boring it out to 83mm and just using a spare set of 1948cc pistons will be a good option
Also if its making any sort of slapping sound at all it means the engine was badly abused
They all have oil squirters so the only way to get slap is to use a really crummy oil and never change it
My bet would be that if the bores are that bad the lifters and the bearings would all be fracked as well
hot much oil pressure does it make at hot idle?
Philia_Bear
Ill take some pics if you want to see as I have both a 1850 and a 1950 apart at the moment for head rebuilds
paul_t4
I do all my own mechanical work so I'd only really be paying for parts and machining... There was about .5 mm of play when I had the head off to to the head gasket, surely the motor won't fall apart if I were to go up by under 1mm.
It's not uncommon practice with my other love, suzuki swifts to over bore by 2-3mm and not have any issues with splitting liners at 300hp @ 30+psi and ~8500 rpm. And the liners in those motors are paper thin.
I haven't measured oil pressure, the motor isn't rattly at all so I'm not overly concerned about pressure or lack off, it just runs rough at idle, when it builds up dynamic compression though it runs quite well. So I was thinking the usual bore up and replace Pistons and bearings and enjoy a smoother running car.
Who knows, I might pull it down and and only need to hone it and throw some new bearings and rings in.
Philia_Bear
They are piss week some times
But generally last forever
I know nothing of the suzuki blocks so cant comment
I just know both of the machine shops I work with refuses to do any boring on whiteblocks because of being burned on jobs where stuff failed very quickly
They will however happily slap a new insert in and bore to spec
Also most of the blocks have a pretty poor deck hight and can really use being decked to push the pistons into positive deck hight for proper squish
At the same time
You want power...
Evo3 drive train bolts in for an easy 400whp
Or
I have done one b4194t before
Put in new sleaves with support rings for a semi closed deck
rods and weisco 12:1 pistons with headwork and cams and solid lifters with shims
dropped the bore to 78mm
running e85 it had a 8500rpm redline and 26psi of boost for over 600whp
That was a lot of someone elses money though
paul_t4
Fair call, I haven't done much with Volvo motors at all.
More power would be nice, but I really only want to remain fairly standard, it's really only a get to and from work/drop my daughter at daycare car. Most of my money is tied up in my suzuki (extremely slow track build) But yes, a 4g63t swap has crossed my mind a few times :)
Philia_Bear
Leave it stock
Clean the pcv
Put a tune on it to get the boos up a little more and 225whp is not an issue and is omg fun
paul_t4
Who tunes them here in Aus? Only thing I can't find is a not very cost effective generic ecu tune/swap (BSR etc)
Vee_Que
Ash does tunes. But are they that much? No one I know of does dyno tuning chips though.
paul_t4
They average from $600-$800 dollars for what is essentially a mass produced tune.
My local tuner dyno tuned my haltech ps1000 from scratch to suit my setup in my other car for $700. I simply can't justify that sort of cost for a 30hp at the flywheel difference from a mass produced chip.
AshDVS
We do Hi-Tuning tunes, suited to local (rubbish) fuel and Australian/European spec vehicles.
We can customise to suit your modifications, etc too.