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360GLT rally car
James (@jamesinc)
Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
in RWD
A couple of mates and I have purchased for ourselves a 360GLT as an entry-level car for organised hooning. Right now it's stock, and we have the following things in the works:
* Some kind of diff solution (LSD or welded diff or modify housing)
* Racing bucket seats (important as I am too tall for stock seats - can't turn leg to tap accelerator when downshifting while braking)
* B230F, 531 head with KL Racing S/T5 cam, adjustable cam gear, and phenolic intake spacer
* Megasquirt II
* Suspension work TBD (will probably leave at current height and stiffen)
* Power steering solution probably needed
We're also looking at entry pathways into rallying, something @Spac has been assisting with. I think I am going to join Thornleigh Car Club and get my CAMS L2 license and attend some events.
* Some kind of diff solution (LSD or welded diff or modify housing)
* Racing bucket seats (important as I am too tall for stock seats - can't turn leg to tap accelerator when downshifting while braking)
* B230F, 531 head with KL Racing S/T5 cam, adjustable cam gear, and phenolic intake spacer
* Megasquirt II
* Suspension work TBD (will probably leave at current height and stiffen)
* Power steering solution probably needed
We're also looking at entry pathways into rallying, something @Spac has been assisting with. I think I am going to join Thornleigh Car Club and get my CAMS L2 license and attend some events.
Comments
Are you sure on power steering? Is it because of switching to a tiny wheel to fit legs?
How does the diff work on these? I never researched as I assumed, probably wrongly, that the odd back end would mean pricy lsd's.
The power steering is more because the steering is so heavy due to so much weight being fore of the cross-member. It might ultimately be okay, I will be starting without it in any case so if it's not too unwieldy I'll leave it alone.
You'll also meet AJ & Nicole who are probably the most enthusiastic and dedicated motorsport people I've ever come across - although they've just had a baby...
1. Run it stock at first. Everyone gets too obsessed with fiddling with the car, when they should pay more attention to doing it, and learning how to drive properly.
You'll probably figure out that there are other things you need to do ahead of what's on your list. For example, Volvo 100 and 200 series engine mounts are crap.
2. Khana the shit out of it. Do as many as you can. Don't be afraid to travel - they get run at Cataract, Riverstone, Awaba, Gundaroo, South Nowra, among others.
3. Keep an eye out for Introductory Rallies. They are few and far between, so you need to jump on them when you can.
A word of warning, though: These have a huge car destruction rate. Seems that lots of people have blood rushes... Start slowly, work your way up.
4. Three owners is a challenge. Most non-rally events will allow you to double enter, but triple entries are usually OK at some khanas.
The really difficult time is when you get to your first rally. Dual-owner rally cars work pretty well when both owners are in the car (usually swapping roles between events). But when there's a third owner, it gets a lot more complicated - especially if the car gets damaged.
Also, partnerships often fall down when one party is less motivated that the other(s).
Not saying it can't work, just that it needs three level heads and good planning: including planning contingencies.
You're on the right track. Ask as you go.
Something as big and lumpy and poorly balanced as a redblock would break stuff at a frightening rate.
Use old suspension bushes.
Later tonight (cold engine) I had a poke around disconnecting sensors etc and didn't get much further with it. When it was still warm connecting and disconnecting the AFM had an effect (it ran smoother for a couple seconds when I plugged the AFM in), and disconnecting the ECT sensor didn't improve anything.