Ok, now for the LH2.2 swap details.
To fit the manual gearbox I fitted a pedal box out of a donor 83. Sometime between 80 and 83 there was a change to the vacuum system whereby the vacuum hose to the manifold downsized and the hole in the pedal plate downsized a couple of mm. That has meant that I've used the small vacuum hose to the manifold and used a manifold connection on the internal reservoir too.
I decided to locate the LH computer on the firewall just in front of the passenger, allowing me to cut out about 2m of cable from the harness. Fitting LH2.2 to a k-jet car is relatively easy, especially if you want to keep the contactless ignition system (LH2.2 owners take note). Part of the process can be used to retrofit k-jet contactless ignition and remove the Chrysler ignition system. I reused the old 80 vacuum hose grommet by boring a 30mm hole in the left hand firewall plate, using this grommet for my LH harness. This negates having to pull the $#!tty Volvo cable grommet to pieces and forcing new wires through.
Here is a list of the mods that are required for the change that aren't documented well elsewhere.
* Thread the fat green O2 sensor wire through the grommet first. This cable can be looped to take up the slack. It is a PITA to re-terminate due to the shielding, so save yourself some heartache.
* The red-black wire from the back of the speedo is just for 12V power when the ignition is in the ON position (position II and position III). It supplies power to the main+fuel pump relay for the LH and to the ECU. I've wired this to fuse 12 (fuses may vary from model to model).
* The yellow-red wire from fuse 7 that powered the k-jet fuel pump relay is redundant. Pull this out from the fuse box, but leave enough to connect in the LH relay. Power to the fuel pumps is taken directly from the battery via a fat red cable (6mm?).
* Purchase a waterproof blade fuse holder to replace the old Volvo one down by the battery. I found mine at Jaycar, but I'm sure you can get them at a good auto store.
* Cut the red-white wire on the old k-jet fuel pump relay and join it to the grey wire to the ECU. This is your pulse signal to the ECU to tell it the engine is running.
* Pull all of the wiring for the Chrysler unit plus distributor and turf it.
* Don't worry about the blue and pink wires for the hall effect sensor, they can stay in the harness and won't cause any issues.
* Do not try to connect the tacho into the computer. For some reason the early tacho is not compatible with the ECU signal. Retain the existing tacho wire that is already in the k-jet harness and connect this to the -'ve terminal of the coil for signal.
* The fuel pumps are powered by the yellow-red wires at the fuel pump relay. Cut these across to the LH relay. IIRC the other wires (sans the red-white one) are now redundant and can be removed from the harness/fuse box.
* Lastly, you will end up with two surplus k-jet wires at the bulkhead plug. I chopped mine off, but you can do what you like with yours.
Le Fuse Box from an 80 145 with central locking and M46.
LH2.2 ECU mounted in front of the passenger footwell. That red wire that is cabled onto the harness on from the top right is going to be replaced with the original tacho wire from the coil.
Oh, and buy yourself a lot of joiners and a decent set of crimping pliers. This was a box of 100 when I started and I only made a few bad joins here and there (until I upgraded my crimper pliers).
For those that want to convert from Chrysler ignition to k-jet contactless, simply rip out all of that Chrysler harness and other stuff, source the dizzy and control unit for the contactless unit, plumb it all in, connect the grey wire from the harness plug under the throttlebody to the -'ve side of the coil, plumb in the vacuum line to the dizzy and start the old girl up. You will require a power source from the key to the breaker module. This is usually from the key. Simples.