140 164 Engine Spare

Hi All,

As the attached picture I have stripped the life out of a 1974 164TE and only the engine remains. I would like to keep but I don't have an engine crane.

I'm keen to scrap the parts car ASAP but it seems criminal to send the engine to its grave.

Can anyone tell me if its worth keeping? I do have a project 164e with a complete engine for info.

Also windows and wheels. Worth keeping or readily available?

Many thanks for any input.



  • The whishbones, pins and all brakes are 164 specific ATE units (save them due to corrosion issues). Rims are wider than 140, but it depends on whether you're putting mags on or not. Chrome body trims are often 164 specific.

    The engine will have steel timing gears and is the engine that takes B21 pistons (if the same as the B20).

    The brake booster is different from the 140 too.

  • @Roinik only the upper wishbones are 164 specific. Some 164s have Girling rear brakes too.

    The ATE calipers and front discs are worth saving.

    From the engine, it is worth saving -

    • pushrods and rocker gear (pushrods are desirable for hot B20s; rocker gear is also B20 compatible)
    • valves (large and B20 compatible)
    • water pump if good (unique to B30)
    • conrods and pistons (1974 B20 compatible for both, B21/B23 compatible for rods)
    • oil pump (unique to B30)
    • timing gear set, if both are steel (some B30s had a fibre cam gear, in which case don't bother)
    • bonnet hinges (140 compatible)
    • oil filler cap (compatible with all redblocks)
    • bellhousing (unique to B30)
    • starter motor if good (fits any OHC or OHV redblock)
    • alternator bracket (because spare)

    Up to you if you want to spend $50 or so at Kennards or other place to hire an engine crane for the day. The B30 engine is very heavy - in the order of about 500 lb.

    Doors and side windows are compatible with 140s and 240s up to YM1978. Rear window fits all 140s and 240s. Wheels are worth saving if 5.5 inch wide. 164 front fenders are unique and getting hard to find, ditto the nose section.

    Looks like you got the power steering box and pump.

  • @bgpzfm142 when I had a look at @DW42's 73 164 it looked like the 164 lower bushes were different to the 140, solid vs those horrible cutaway jobs. I'm happy to be wrong though.

  • SpacSpac @Spac Canberra-ish.

    When I offloaded my 164 stuff, there was a fair bit of interest in the motors from boat guys.

  • Yep @Roinik - lower bushes are different IIRC but the arms themselves are the same; the upper wishbones are different.

  • OK thanks for comments.

    I will find a crane and keep engine, sounds like a good idea to have the spares.

    Steering and suspension, I've attached a couple pictures that might make it clearer to guide me.

    I will remove front/rear discs and calipers?

    Also will take front fenders, bonnet brackets and windows.

    Wheels seems like a good idea but I guess the scrap man won't collect it?

    I have a bit of time off at the moment so I want to get it all done and off the drive.

    Hate to see parts go to the scrap if they are going to be needed one day.

  • Can anyone tell me what bolts need to be removed so the engine can be lifted free??

  • These things are pretty simple to remove. You have to be careful though because everything is very heavy.

    It's presumed you've already undone all the hoses and wiring.

    • Engine mount bolts - 3 on each side, if you cannot reach the nuts under each engine mount
    • If lifting out with the transmission - the 4 bolts holding the transmission crossmember to the chassis rails, plus the nut on the underside of the transmission mount which you'd remove first. Have a trolley jack under the transmission to support the weight before you undo anything.
    • If the transmission has been removed - just the 2 engine mounts.

    Weight of engine is about 500 lb. Weight of BW35 transmission is about 100 lb., so make sure your jack and trolley are on a solid surface that can take this weight.

  • Thanks,

    When removing "the nut on the underside of the transmission mount which you'd remove first"

    Is this the nut that sits centrally between the 4 bolts holding the transmission crossmember to chassis rail? There is a hole within the steel to allow for it to be removed?

  • The nut I'm referring to there is the one in the middle of the gearbox crossmember. It's the one which attaches the rubber transmission mount to it. It's self-explanatory when seen from under the car.

  • Yep, found it.

    Got it all the way to the end and now the bolt is spinning with it. Very frustrating!

  • Engine removed and saved from the scrap yard. Auto transmission also removed, although don't think I'll need it.

    Time to scrap the parts car.

  • dmmDane @dmm Port Melbourne

    Well done. Admirable persistence.

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