140 164 starter issues

ab1Al @ab1 Melbourne
edited February 8 in Troubleshooting

i have been trying to run a compression check and unable to succesfuly do this as the starter is turning very slowly. after using a different battery and still having the same issue... i replaced the starter however the starter i replaced only has one connector for the solenoid as opposed to my original which had 2.


Wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction in connecting my wires correctly and also any ideas what would be causing the slow turning starter as seems to be the same with the replacement.

connecting all the connectors to the one terminal yields the fuel pump running constant and when going from position 3 to 2 the starter continues to engage/disengage.

Comments

  • Your replacement starter uses the spade terminal for the line from the key. There are two things to try first. 1: run a new ground wire between the engine and the battery negative.

    2: run a new positive wire from the battery to the big terminal on the starter.

    Make sure the cable is equivalent to the original or is multiple cables in parallel to make up the equivalent diameter. Also, make sure your battery terminals and terminal clamps are roughed up with emery paper.

    If either of these alternative cables work then you have a corroded terminal somewhere, either with the main earth strap or the main terminal block near the battery.

    ab1
  • I had a look at the 140 D-jet setup and the fat cable from the battery is the only one connected to the bolt. The other cables from the warm-up relay, the computer and the key (via the gearbox lock-out relay on the auto) connect to the spade terminal. The 160 should be identical. Other than that, the comment above should hold true.

    ab1
  • What sort of shape is the engine to body earth strap in?

  • jamesincJames @jamesinc Oz Volvo Ice Fortress

    You can also try cleaning the brushes and commutator in the starter, I did that recently on one of my cars and it made a big difference

    ab1
  • ab1Al @ab1 Melbourne

    Will have a closer look at the grounding strap when i get a chance but it was intact only greasy which i should affect its conductivity. Perhaps im wrong.

    i will go direct to the starter when i next attempt previously i just connected a battery tom my battery block (battery has been relocated to the boot - month previous without any issues)


    looks like there has been some dodgy wiring done in the past to the car. there is an additional smaller wire running off the bolt. it used to be an auto so im assuming one wire thats been cut is for that lockout relay.

    from what you've said i gather that i how ive put all the spade connectors onto the one terminal should be correct...

  • Definitely clean up the strap connections. If someone has hacked into the wiring then anything is possible, however if it worked before, you sort of have to look at those items that have been disturbed. Even a large voltage drop from a rear battery can do strange things.

    ab1
  • ab1Al @ab1 Melbourne

    interestingly disconnected the D jet wires from the spade terminal and everything seemed normal. do you know what purpose they would serve. can i relocate them onto the constant battery cable terminal.


    i cleaned up the grounding strap to no avail. i would just like to confirm where it is actually meant to bolt on to the engine. as it stands it currently is on the aluminium flywheel cover casing which i wouldnt imagine is conductive or does it ground through the bolt that holds it to the engine?

  • The earth strap doesn't car where it connects to the engine. Typically it is to the bolt on the bell housing as you've described.

    I think the brains trust might know more about the d-jet input from the starter terminal.

  • You may find the extra small wire on the starter is for the coil to have a different resistor when cranking. Not sure on 164, though some in that era had that.

    ab1
Sign In or Register to comment.