940 & 960 16 Valve B234F oil pump pulley bolt sheared off

So, one of the few things to strike fear into the hearts of the brave folk who drive 16v redblocks has just occurred.

At low rpm, 700ish, reversing out of a neighbour's drive the bloody bolt head sheared off. It was a stock spec 8.8 grade bolt. I thought people didn't do that anymore?! my fault for not checking

To add further interest to the drama, the bolt extractor I was using sheared off inside the bolt after I spent bloody ages making room to operate and then painfully slowly drilling into it.

In order to dertermine if the little pitter patter I heard was was little valves getting the living snot beaten out of them I need to do a compression test. To that I need to get the oil pump pulley back on, the timing belt back on, then be able to turn it over. I thought the belt survived but I've found a nick in it. It should be able to at least do the compression test though. I'm not dropping the $$$ on a new one until I know the status of the motor.

I'm not sure what the next best course of action is...

There is one, possibly 2, 16 valve volvos at a u pull it nearby. I could get the oil pump off one these cars and replace mine, or...

(a) drill in again, if I can, and attempt to load a reverse threaded bolt into it

(b) remove the oil pump, something I don't know how to do, then do (a)

(c) pour pretrol over it and set it all on fire. 'Running on Empty' style!

(d) just park the bloody thing in a paddock, start scouring the interwebs for a lexus front cut and stick a 1uz V8 and gearbox in it

(e) save all the time, effort, probable tears & recriminations and part the carcass out.

Thanks in advance for any ideas you send my way.



PS: not interested in any discussion on the merits and otherwise of these engines. Theres plenty enough already written.



  • I think the B234 at Gillman still has the oil pump and a pulley. Everything else is pretty much gone except for doors, glass, suspension, gearbox and tailgate. Where are the other B234s?

  • DCW242Duncan @DCW242 - Western Victoria

    Can you let me know if you decide to sell the car as is? I’m still after lots of B234 parts. I can ask a friend in the UK if they have an oil pump, I don’t know of any in Australia though.

  • I have spare b234 bits here in western Sydney

    Iirc 2 good heads (no bent valves) and a block

    I have the oil pump as well

  • Oil pump bolt failure is a known problem with B234 engines.

    The production 8.8 bolts were upgraded to a 10.9 class M10 x 1.5mm thread, 30mm long (p/n 948472) with a flat washer (p/n 960148). I ordered a replacement oil pump bolt from Skandix years ago, who AFAIK kept them in stock.

    Examine the oil pump pulley carefully for cracking around the hole where the bolt goes in. These pulleys are available again (they were extinct for a while, but it seems somebody started producing them again).

    As for not knowing how to remove the oil pump, the B234 Green Book can be found on a Google search - you're looking for TP31304-2_700_B234F_16valve_engine.pdf

  • Thank you all for your replies.

    @Roinik Yes, I was lucky enough to get the back seats from that, they were in much the same colour as the redbrik has. Once cleaned they looked really nice. Like the redbrik, the front seats were trashed. I'd like to find a couple of good heated front 940 seats in camel leather.

    I don't know of any other 16 valve cars at upullit. I looked at the stocklist and nothing jumped out as such.

    @DCW242 Thank you for the offer to source the part from the UK friend. Yes I'll let you know if decide to sell the car.

    @Philia_Bear mate! you pop up everywhere and I appreciate the offer for parts thank you. If the compression test comes back bad I'll have to work out what I'm going to do.

    @bgpzfm142 thank you for your detailed reply. I'll search up the green book. As you can imagine, I'm kicking myself for not checking the bolt. I'd read all the horror stories but assumed that when the belts were done (the Tbelt was quite new) the bolt would have been upgraded. My assumption just made an ass of me!

    Does anyone have experiance with this event?

    Is it at all possible that as the oil pressure dropped the hydraulic lifters may have allowed the valves some space to retract upon contact with a piston? Wishful thinking?

    Thanks again everyone.

  • I had a timing belt skip a tooth on my b234 940 when the Ballance shaft belt idler failed and interfered with the timing belt.

    The result was the car would still run once it was re-timed but very poorly as some of the valves were slightly off angle, this was confirmed with compression test before head removal. Ended up having to replace most of the valves. It has been very reliable since with balance shafts disconnected.

  • Most likely that there will be bent valves. The one at Gillman snapped a belt, bent 6 valves and broke lifters. With luck you can get away with some new valves and not much else. Just use an impact socket for the head bolts as they will be very tight and a standard socket can round the heads easily.

  • @Roinik - aha...I had been thinking of pulling the motor for parts. I might skip that. It was a bummer that vovlo was so seemingly inconsistent with rear sway bars. There wasn't one of that one, nor is the one on my 940, yet my brother's '93 940 GL has one. Do you know the gold wagon well?

    @Essbos :-( if that's the case it sounds like I'll be parking the beastie up while I decide what to do.

  • Sorry to say it, but it's more probable than not that some valves are bent.

    If the valves have bent, the valve guides will also need to be replaced.

    Also, I've just noticed that your profile indicates you've got a 940, which AFAIK will have the automatic (i.e. self-adjusting) timing belt tensioner arrangement. As you know, that's a different belt to the manually-tensioned setup. The Green Book I listed shows procedures for the manually tensioned timing belt setup. The oil pump r&r, etc, procedures are otherwise identical; it just means you won't have to go through the rigmarole of manually adjusting the belt tension.

    I've also looked through the availability of parts for the auto-tensioner version - FCP has most of the timing belt idler pulleys and stuff, but you'll need to go to GCP to get a 3547715-7 pulley.

    If you're looking for a set of brand new replacement valves, I'd consider this guy, pyropete125 on ebay. He also used to sell replacement valve guides too. I've bought 2 heads' worth of valves and guides from him in the past.


  • No I don't know it well. I scavenged the head and inlet manifold. Someone else scavenged the cam gears, radiator, maf, injectors and ducting.

    I don't know what's under it.

  • @bgpzfm142 correct, the redbrik is a 940 GLE. 1991. yes, it's got the auto tensioner. Thanks again for another lead.

    @Roinik ah yes, if you've got those bits you'd be able to figure the story of it's demise. like reading tea leaves. What are you rebuilding? I'd been thinking of going back to get the intake mani. good to know you've got it, saves me a visit.

  • edited November 2019

    Yes, lack of maintenance (the oil smells old and burnt). Probably a tensioner and a timing belt. Do you know whether it would be a AW70, AW71 or AW72 box? I was thinking of grabbing a local 92 B230F,doing an oil pump and BMW squirter upgrade, going bigger on the inlet valves and opening up the inlet ports a bit for better flow. I have access to the bits/cars to throw that into a 92 240 sedan and make it a M47/T5/T56 manual or into a 1980 wagon to make that a M46 manual. I haven't decided. An AW71 could sway my thinking to auto as well. Did you grab the pulleys?

  • No i haven't grabbed the pulleys, too busy with work.

    As far as I know, all auto b234f cars came with the AW72L gearbox. The same casing as the 71 but lower ratios to suit the revier nature of the engine.

    The diff in the gold car is a 1031 which means its an open diff unfortunately. Not that it would fit a 240 anyway.

  • Well, she's dead.

    I ran compression tests;

    cyl 1: 0psi

    cyl2: 179

    cyl3: 165

    cyl4: 179

    cyl 3 seems a little low. With the 1342 firing order I guess it's possible there's a bit of damage the valves on 3 as well.

    pulled the cam cover off, when cyl2 has valve followers fully in contact with the back if the cam lobe, cyl 1 has the followers only rising about 1/3 of the way.

    Guessing the valves are bent after getting headbutted by the piston.

    So annoyed this happened under such pedestrian circumstances, reversing out of a driveway. Minutes prior to this I'd wound it out to red line climbing up the hill toward my place and was really enjoying the fact that it pulled so well in second and sounded pretty good too.

    Don't know what I'll do.

    Almost bought a 242gt on the weekend but the owner had a change of heart and decided not to sell. Thoughts of an vertically mounted b234f +t crossed my mind.

    Don't know what RSI rods and turbo pistons are worth. Don't know what valves cost. I could possibly rebuild it over a period of time. I'd need injectors, valve springs, ideally adjustable cam gears, engine management, intake and exhaust manifolds, exhaust, and then there's the gearbox to deal with. Oh, and a turbo, oil return into the block etc etc. It's been done and can be done.

    The redbrik has the 1041 diff with 4.10 ratio so, along with the AW72L, is a bit short geared for a turbo motor. But, I suppose, like a crock it'd have a fearsome lunging speed!

    A heart transplant is an option too I guess. I've always like the idea of a 1UZ. Same gearbox as the 960 so it'd fit the trans tunnel ok. A Toyota reliable NA 250hp would be plenty to play with. Plus, there's the sound.

    And lastly, I guess I could just sell it as is. I've got no idea what it's worth as is.

    Has anyone here put a 1UZ in a 940 chassis? I've seen a few on youtube but they're not build vids.

    Yeah, yeah, yeah... before the snide jaded types respond with "use the search function", Yes, I'll search but am asking in case anyone can point to links they know off hand.

    Thanks again to all that responded and offered ideas.

  • 1uz fits, quite a few been done to date

    Cyl3 could just have some carbon, numbers seam a little high for bent valve

    New valves are not that exxy at all, if your up for the work then making it good again should be under $1k in parts

    The 350/370z powertrain Inc a cd009 trans also fits quite well if you want something NA but differrnt and still good

  • Interesting though re: nissan v6... that one hadn't crossed my mind.

    RE:cyl 3 it's interesting, having had the exhaust manifold off, I've seen 1st hand the difference in the exhaust outputs and 3 really does run leaner. The runner for that one was pale silver/grey with 1 & 4 being quite sooty and 2 somewhere between those two extremes. If 3 has leaned off too much it could even be a little burnt. Don't know for sure but I guess it could be possible.

  • 165psi not likely there would be any problem with that cylinder

    I'd just replace the bent valves, have a nice running car again

  • Definitely go with the rebuild. If you want to sell then I'll put my hand up for first dibs. I've just pulled my 16v apart and I'd budget in a few hydraulic lifters/caps too. If they don't compress in your fingers then they're cactus. I'd almost guarantee #1 has tanked some. Check the guides for cracks.

    Skandix has the correct gasket kits and other bits. Use the best gasket sealant available, either the blue Volvo stuff or 515 Loctite. Do not use Silastic or RTV silicone because it can swell and block the small oil galleries that feed the lifters. Use sealant sparingly and focus on the areas around the cams.

  • Thanks Sam and Ian. I"ll mull over what to do. It's come at a bloody akward time. I'm in the process of getting a BMW e34 Touring back on the road and the Redbrik was my car to get to work. And through all of this, the little ol' 2000 camry just keeps soldiering on. I really do think that Toyotas and higher end Nissans from that golden era of the 90s to very early 2000 really do mark a hgih point in solidly engineered if possibly dull motoring. Like 70's Mercs. Or 240s!

  • BTW rsi has shut up shop.

    JVAB and acm.se are other options.

Sign In or Register to comment.