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240 B21A complexity?

How hard is the B1A to work with? I have lilterally no experience with carburetors. My only real experience of 240's is with LH2.4. Can I get a non-running B21A running relatively easily or are they a complex setup?

(I'm looking at maybe picking up a 70's 240 which has a B21A of unknown condition.)

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Comments

  • Very simple. Is it a Stromberg or SU? Once you have spark then it depends on the carby for what you have to do.

  • How do you tell which it is?

  • It's written on top of the carb.

    Strombergs may be marked 175-CD-2SE or have 'Zenith' embossed on them. Also the Stromberg has four screws on the edges of the dashpot / top cover.

    The SU HIF 6 doesn't have the 4 screws like the Stromberg on the dashpot.

    Google those carb types and you'll see pictures. They look similar, but you'll pick the differences easily enough.

    240
  • Stromberg looks like this:

    SU HIF 6 looks like this:

    Basically the Stromberg has a soft rubber diaphragm inside and the SU has a rigid metal one. Both have good and bad points and both are easy to get operational. Far simpler than the LH2.4.

  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria

    The CD175 was generally only found on '75 242DL's (and 140's).

    All the other carby 240's ('78 onwards L/DL models) had the SU HIF6.

    Both are simpler than the majority of other carbies out there. The Aisin carby on my 3F Landcruiser is far more complicated to diagnose and work on.

  • Dad's B21A 244DL - YM82 - had a Stromberg from factory.

  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress

    I have an '81 244 DL with a CD175

  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria

    It sounds like they might have gone back to the CD175 from '81 on in that case. The SU must have only been from '78-'80 model years.

  • SU HIF6 was definitely on the 77 B21A. As Greg and I discovered, the 77 HIF 6 and the 78 HIF 6 have some subtle differences too.

  • Thanks for the advice, if I end up getting the car I'll post back here when I know what specific problems it has.

  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria

    I haven't seen a '77 model year car with a carby, I thought it was B21E in all Australian models that year. My '77 245L and a parts L are factory injection models.

    Overseas cars would certainly have had a carby in '77 in some markets.

  • SpacSpac (@Spac) Canberra-ish.

    My 79 244DL was Stromberg.

  • The SU HIF6 that I pulled at a wreckers in Perth was definitely a 77. I IIRC it was an Australian delivered vehicle. The difference between the 77 and 78 seems to be the side that the throttle linkage is on.

  • My 79 244DL was an SU HIF6, FWIW. Good riddance! :)

  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria

    Sounds like they might have been more sporadic in their fitment than I originally thought!

    It's also possible that some were swapped by owners when the original carby developed issues.

    A mate of mine had a '79 244DL with an SU, when it played up I sold him a Stromberg that he fitted.

  • @carnut222 why was it good riddance?

  • It was a car that had been sitting for about 15-20 years and I resurrected it with the intention of selling it. I could never get it to run right. I did end up selling it to a friend of a guy who is a carburettor guru. He ended up getting another SU, put that on, and had similar issues. He pulled them both apart and made a good one out of bits from the two but never figured out exactly what was wrong with the original carburettor. I was brought up on fuel injection so don’t have much patience for carburettors. They are pretty simple vs FI though.

  • Weber DCOE.

    They are awesome when set up right and do not fall out of tune. The DGV is another option, they just work though do not look as cool.

    I took two great condition and rebuilt CD175s off a B21 in a 144 and fitted a DCOE, it transformed the car once tuned. It started better, accelerated better, ran better, responded better. It was just better to drive.

    I believe @iceton1975 (Mark I) has a DGV conversion kit at a really cheap price, I would suggest spend money on that before spending money on getting an SU working. Unless pure originality is a driver, then like Greg implied, settle in for a lot of learning and troubleshooting.

    Get some electronic ignition too, it will make a noticable improvement to the starting and performance.

    BTW: I think the differences in year model may have been the feature grade of the car, the DL was probably different to the GLE etc. Cannot be certain though, not my speciality.

  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.

    Regarding Marks Weber kit.

    Mark Iceton 0434 897 144

    iceton1975
  • That's overkill for a B21A.

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