240 240 aircon evaporator removal and gasses

how hard is it to remove my 240 wagons evap unit, where would I get a used one from?

is it a dash out move or can you sneak through the glovebox?.............

the mechanic said it needs replacement, is it easy to work this out myself?

Oh and finally is a 1991 the old gas that i have to replace with propane or the new gas that does not work very well but saves the environment?


this forum is awesome


  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC
    edited September 2019

    I have a 91 240 wagon and replaced the gas with the Hychill (hydrocarbon) and it gets plenty cold. In fact on the freeway it freezes up so I have to switch off the switch manually every so often to avoid it freezing up.

    Regarding removal of the evaporator, there is a removable end on the case for the evap to slide out, but I think you might find the heater tap, heater hoses and A/C lines make it hard to remove. I removed the dash and the whole heater box when I removed the heater core and AC evap on our 93 240 I converted to an EV. I replaced these with an electric resistance heater core. Not relevant to you I know. Somebody might have the Greenbook procedure for removing the late-style evaporator core. Hopefully they can post it for you here.

  • thanks

    Yeah the hychill is a propane butane blend and can work really well. thats the path I will follow if i can the evap out without removing the whole dash.

  • I’m in the process of installing 93 components in a 79 245...I have the dash out and can take some pics of the side of the heater unit and let you know if I think it’s feasible to remove the evap without pulling the dash and HVAC unit out. It won’t be much fun but may be feasible.

  • Here’s a couple pics. This is a 93 heater box so could be a bit different than 91, but I think they are similar as 91 also has the newer style A/C system. You can see the clear plastic end piece on the side of the heater casing...screws hold it on. The biggest issue I can see is the 2 hard lines that come off the side of the evaporator protrude through a rubber grommet in the firewall...it may be impossible to slide the evaporator out of the case while also pulling the hard lines out of the firewall. Looks to me like the heater unit needs to come out but you’d have to give it a try to be sure.

  • Looks like you will be going in if you want to get the AC evaperator out the casing has to be split into two. The fan motor can be taken out through the side. Both sides will have to come out .

  • If you have a slow gas leak top it up every few years. What is your problem usually the heater core goes not the AC.

  • I think on the later cases the cover side can come off and the evap slides out. I thought the evap could slide out even on the early cases, but not sure.

  • Hy chill works perfectly fine and is cheaper than R134a (propper automotove refrigerant) its just flammable tho, wont explode or anything but will ignite, you can actually run an aircon on LPG if your really keen lol. Personly i only have ever used R134a, retro fittomg aircon to take either is simple as new R134a fitttings to screw onto the old R12 ports, change the receiver drier and the oil in the system and that's it.

  • This forum is amazing

  • The old R12 gas was roughly 1000 times more powerful than carbon dioxide as a greenhouse gas, R134a which replaced it, and is in widespread use, is about 100 times more powerful than carbon dioxide.

    There are genuine Volvo and aftermarket conversion kits to use R134a in earlier models, they work well as they include a TX valve calibrated for R134a.

    You can also use a propane/butane type refrigerant, they work well but are illegal in some places due to fire risk. It doesn't take a big impact to puncture the condenser or hoses at the front of the car, releasing the flammable gas and greatly increasing the risk of fire. Personally I will never use it in my cars, but each to their own based on personal risk assessment.

    I should have a used evap core from a system that was known to hold gas at the time of removal, if you haven't obtained one yet.

  • @Angus242164 considering that the mainstream refrigerants patented by dupont (r12,r134a,r1234yf) can basically generate mustard gas when burnt, most of the concern around lpg based refrigerants is hysteria.

  • They may give off toxins when burnt, but they aren't readily flammable, and don't introduce a flammable gas to the area of the car most likely to be damaged in a collision.

  • I have used R134a my whole career at least last 13 years as an auto elect. Back when nitorgen was to expensive re ran lpg to find leaks with dye ect( my job as an apprentice was to go fill tje 100ltr bottle up at the servo dont ask lol) we were but ALWAYS re gassedd with R134a. I understand it OZONE depleting bit we hold relevent licenses and training associated with Handling Refrigerant, and renew them EVERY 3 years. There propane/ butane blends while they work Excellent require no TRAINING OR EXPERIENCE or LICENCE , any man and his dog eg backyard mechanic can do re gasses. just top up yearly. NEVER actually repairing or fixing the system. If a systems needs a re gas it generly has a leak and needs replacement parts hoses, orings ect. MOST reputable companys and repairers still use R134a in the automotive world. Justs my 5 cents worth

Sign In or Register to comment.