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240 James's 1977 244 DL

jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
edited July 1 in RWD
I flew to Melbourne and bought this non-runner, and had a great time fixing it on the spot and driving it back to Sydney on a permit.








Ran out of fuel just outside of Goulburn...

Safe and sound, and washed

It's come up real nice with a wash, and I've just ordered the parts it needs to pass a blue slip - new engine and transmission mounts, and a new lockset (the passenger lock is broken and the boot lock doesn't seem to match the key I have. The driver's door lock is the only one that works).

Stay tuned. It will likely receive the B230FT drivetrain that's currently in Billie but with a bit more planning. In particular I want to take the full loom and ECU/EZK mounting plates from an LH-2.4 240, as Billie's is a bit hacked together.
ALVO360alphaxJamest5r_bgpzfm142nugget_940ds245Angus242164RaebirdgoodenoughVee_Queand 1 other.


  • Sweet! What did it take to get started?
  • Awesome! Great little adventure.
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    edited July 2
    Sweet! What did it take to get started?
    The seller ran me through a list of stuff that had been replaced. They replaced the main pump, fuel filter, plugs, cap, rotor, leads. To get it started, I replaced the entire distributor assembly with a known-good one (probably not necessary but I had it with me and it was quicker to replace it than test it). I wound the timing as far forward as I could, about 22 degrees. The ignition leads were in the wrong order, and the fuel pump fuse had blown.

    The context around advancing the timing was that the seller had told me they had messed with the K-Jet base mixture, enriching it. I had no O2 probe with me so decided against making further blind adjustments.

    The next morning in @Vee_Que's driveway I replaced the in-tank pump with one I had brought with me. It had no filter sock, which may explain why it failed. When I powered it, I felt it trying to spin.

    I also replaced the o-rings around the injectors as those were brittle. That probably wasn't necessary but, eh, I had new ones with me so why not. I gave the injectors a good clean while they were out.

    It still has a bit of an idle miss. I need to hook up my fuel pressure tester and check everything is in-spec, then hopefully with @VolvoHordz assistance I can dial the base mixture back to factory settings (13.77:1 AFR, or 2% CO)
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    edited August 2

    Couple of small updates.

    1. I've replaced the engine and transmission mounts, which should be all it needs to pass inspection.
    2. I've gone over the whole car closely looking for rust, and have only found one spot in the rear driver's-side door frame area which is fairly benign and easily repaired, and one much more serious spot below the driver's tail light. Fortunately it is in an area that is more-or-less not visible from the outside, so I'll cut it all out and weld in patch. As the rest of the car is in such nice condition I'll have the paint shop colour match the repair. I also want to get a couple of small dents removed.
    3. I found the door moisture barriers were all degraded (surprising no-one). The door cards have a small amount of moisture damage but are in generally good condition. I decided to try this product, which cost $50, which seems reasonable for how convenient it is.

  • carnut222Greg S (@carnut222) Daylesford VIC

    I usually use old bubble wrap and packing tape or duct tape to weatherproof the doors, but that kit looks like it would make for a more professional job. Just likely will be impossible to remove at a later date! :) I’ve been looking for windscreen butyl tape kit that’s a bit thinner. The ones I’ve bought seem to be about a 10 mm diameter bead, whereas I think the 240s called for an 8 mm IIRC? On that white 79 I recently sold, the windscreen seemed to sit up a bit to high with the 10 mm butyl tape kit.

    Look forward to watching progress! :)

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