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120 122s engine rebuild plus more - UPDATED 6 Jul

toddamok (@todd) Adelaide
edited July 6 in RWD
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I have got all of the parts together to get stuck into rebuilding the engine in my ride.

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The block, head, crank and flywheel are at the machine shop, cleaned and measured. I have to drop a box of parts in the morning.

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Pretty exciting!

Will provide updates.
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Comments

  • toddamok (@todd) Adelaide
    edited July 6
    I got my parts back from the machine shop. Quite happy with the service. Took just over 2 weeks, but I did say there was no rush.

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    Today I cleaned up the garage a bit and started cleaning some of the yucky bits.

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    Not sure about the little parts washer yet. For about $200 for the washer and the proper solvent parts washer fluid I could buy a lot of the SCA degreaser spray cans.

    The machining all looks really good, although I'm not sure what a "kline" is. I must call and ask. The balancing guys (sub contracted) had to really grind a lot of of the big ends to bring them down to match the lightest. I expect it will make a good improvement. Will try to take pics to show.
    VolDanVee_Quebgpzfm142
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  • Nice - look forward to seeing more! :)
    egadstodd
  • I really like the 122s coupe(?). Are there many around?
  • I really like the 122s coupe(?). Are there many around?

    I think the 2 door 122s is becoming a rare beast. I only saw a few while looking for my 4 door. Good luck.
  • Angus242164Angus (@Angus242164) Western Victoria
    Looks like the ingredients for a very thorough rebuild! The costs add up fast, but it's nice knowing that you have as much power and reliability as possible under the bonnet once it's done.
    toddVee_Que
  • VolDanVolDan (@VolDan) Launceston,Tasmania
    Hi @todd, looks like a lot of good gear there. Would be very interested in as much detail in your progress as you'd care to share!
    Looks like a steel timing gear set. Is that the one from IPD? I need to replace mine shortly and looking for suggestions.
    Cheers,
    Dan
  • toddamok (@todd) Adelaide
    edited June 30
    Is that the one from IPD?
    The timing gear is the aluminium kit from CVI. I think the aluminium one should last ok and reduces rotating mass.

    I actually accidentally over ordered and have two of these kits. I would be willing to sell one for $205 + shipping, which is about cost, not including any of the cost of shipping/GST/import fees/import taxes that I paid on the order.

    Shoot me a message if interested.

    I receive my machined and balanced parts next week.

    -Todd
    Vee_Que
  • What engine is that?
  • toddamok (@todd) Adelaide
    edited July 3
    What engine is that?

    B20E, still with HS6 SUs. Not sure where the manifold is from, seems modern. Dual exhaust outlets and no preheat system.
  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.

    Not bad, what is the compression ratio you are going with on the head and the squish volume? On my pushrod redblock builds I aim for 0.035' , makes it less likely to ping.


    What cam will you be running?

  • toddamok (@todd) Adelaide
    edited July 11


    The compression ratio and squish is yet to be measured. Squish will be pretty easy to measure, I think/hope. Hopefully it comes out ok. The machine ship was reluctant to assemble to check. I have thought about custom head gasket too. Measuring the capacity of the chamber might be a bit more of a challenge. Off to ebay to see how much a pippet (I think that's what I need) is. (edit: pippette is what I was thinking of, may be able to use a syringe to get close)

    The cam is a K reproduction from CVI, says made in usa on it.

    I plan on rebuilding a second head at a later date. I have a mate that will port it. Prob don't need a better cam till that happens.

    I live in the city so I kinda want to stick with the SUs.

  • You may find the K requires a lot of rpm to deliver (that is if you've not had experience with the K). The D with an appropriate 123 programmable electronic ignition will deliver mid range power and torque.

  • bgpzfm142bgpzfm142 (@bgpzfm142) Launceston TAS
    edited July 12

    K and D cams for a B20 are very similar.

    http://www.1800philes.com/ianr/_superlist_grinds.html

    The K was used in B20E engines. I had a K cam in my 144 years ago, and it was very good for a daily driver - there was good idle, and it wasn't a pig below 2200 RPM, like the later (bigger) cam in that car was.

  • Vee_QueVee_Que (@Vee_Que) South Eastern suburbs Melbourne.

    I run an aggressive cam on my 122 b20 compared to stock, and it is no harder to drive than a modern 16v s40 Volvo, I'd even say it's equal. So sure it doesn't have all it's torque at 1500rpm and you can't bog it down, but you shouldn't anyway!

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