I have hardfacing mig wire if you want to try welding it up and then filing it back down to be flat...
"it needs work" classic understated tone
Slow progress is still progress!
Random post… but I have been watching Matt Berry’s YouTube channel and now I have spent time working out whether I can bolt an S40 turbo to a stock Mirage exhaust manifold via an adapter plate.
It looks like the answer is yes.
$380 for an electric scavenge pump is less appealing, though.
Edit... $100 is better...
I have scavenged through the collection of treasure tonight, and reckon that I have enough bits for oil feed and drain, IC piping, exhaust... it's feeling doable.
Every single time I see the title of this thread, I read it as El Mirage.
I have owned this Mazda brake pedal with balance bar for a long time. Must be just short of 20 years.
(That’s it on the left)
Today, for no reason in particular, I decided to make it fit a Mirage. Stock Mirage brake pedal on the right.
First step was to liberate the tube from the Mazda pedal.
Then attack the Mitsubishi pedal with the hole saw.
Nearly screwed up the welding. Was very careful to get the tube parallel in one plane, totally forgot about the second…
Fortunately, I checked it after tacking it.
The tube it intentionally offset slightly inboard (to the left) to ensure that there’s enough room behind the strut tower.
Worked out in the end.
Next was to modify the bracket to accomodate the dual master cylinders. Photo /\ is not super clear, but you can see on the right where it has met the hole saw .
Bit of brain power in working out the process. Simply removing all of the bits that needed to be removed would have made it ridiculously flexible.
It’s getting close, but not finished.
The vertical webs will have to be removed and replaced with new bits slightly closer together. This is so the clevises won’t hit the stays. A job for tomorrow!
Also, did some work on El Wifeo’s rally car sump guard this morning.
This task had been ignored for months, but the motivation was to get it out of the way…
I still need to add some 25x25 angle in the frame, to match the angled edge. This will give it more stiffness and extra mounting points. Can’t do it until I pull the car out of the shed and check for clearance under the motor and gearbox.
Will also trim the back edge (has currently been hacked with an angle grinder) and bend up the back edge slightly - the bend will add stiffness/strength, and will help for reversing off dirt embankments…
Sounds silly, but lots of rally cars have gotten beached because the back edge of the sump guard hangs up when trying to undo a minor off road excursion.
Another set of Evo10 camber tops being remanufactured to suit a Mirage.
Not going to make these adjustable in the first instance. The car will have camber adjustment on the bottom of the struts so it is a lot more work to duplicate the adjustment.
Hole still needs to be hit with the die grinder, but they’re close.
Used a hand file rather than the die grinder.
Maybe I can make some for Volvo P3/ Mondeo for mine! Now I'm thinking........
Do you have any more pair of the adjustment parts ?
No, but BMW E46 ones are consistently cheap on ebay.
Got home, got grouched at by two of the three other people who live here in the first twenty minutes… Off to the shed then.
Strut tops done, pedal box done.
As you can see, I got a bit paranoid about the pedal box, and got a bit carried away with the welder.
It is MUCH stiffer now, so I am calling that a win. Will paint it tomorrow.
Master cylinders have been cleaned up - I have no idea where or when I acquired them, but it was a long time ago. They’re still in good condition inside, so will try them first (I will be guessing on the correct size, so it is highly likely that I will have to buy new ones anyway - just prefer to buy new ones in the correct size).
Made the brake pedal pad a bit larger for easier left foot braking.
Strut (top)s finished.
Nice touch with the green
Love your work , just getting it done!
Dunno if this is going to ever be used, but it was an excuse to be in the shed for a while...
It's designed to go either way - turbo pointing to the left or the right. Intake on the driver's side gives more space for intercooler.
Found an oil T-piece in the stash of treasures, which will work for turbo oil feed.
A bit of foolishness for a Monday afternoon.
This is the car I dragged home from Harden earlier in the year. Shabby, run-down but not totally trashed car with a rattly big end.
A mixture of curiosity and watching too many Matt Berry Starlet videos lead me to pull the sump off.
I had already pulled apart the locked-up original motor from the road car - the nuts had come off the rod cap on #2 rod. The cap, both nuts and one intact rod bolt were sitting in the bottom of the sump. The other rod bolt was still intact, in place in the rod.
This triggered my curiosity on this car’s motor.
This one had just spun #4 bearing. The cap was still in place and tight.
Here’s what I could find of the bearings…
The rod is not great, but the crank seems to have survived - based on the highly scientific fingernail test.
So… I went and grabbed the big end bearing from one of the other rods from the road car motor.
And slapped them in.
I actually looked up the torque spec for the bolts, but I couldn’t get the used bolts to the spec - they were just stretching…
Cleaned the sump out, and used the finest quality gasket maker I had on hand … which is windscreen sealant. 😁
Slapped it back together with the rattle gun, and then made the appalling discovery that I didn’t have any cheap crappy oil in stock - there’s usually a container that’s come out of the boot of some crap box, but I must have used it.
I can now reliably inform everyone that cheap crap oil from Woolworths costs $18.50… it used to be $7 back in 1994!😆
Anyhow, it now runs and doesn’t rattle.
I honestly have no idea why I bothered, especially seeing as the stretched rod bolts mean that I will never trust it… but there you go.
I then degreased the engine bay - been a long time since I have had something with half and inch of oil soaked grime all over the motor and gearbox.
Future plans are …. non existent. It is the spare shell and panels for El Wifeo’s rally car, so it won’t be sold. It might be the car that gets the rough-and-ready +T setup, but then I don’t know what I will use it for - and don’t want to risk the panels thrashing it around a khanacross or something.
The ugly old Momo winged seat is getting a refurb.
It would have been a big dollar seat when it was new, but it was looking so shabby that I took it out of the BMW race car …
Of course I forgot to take “before” photos, but picture a previously red seat that had faded to pink, with s torn and tattered cover that has been patched up with bright red race tape…
Here it is with the original cover removed and the first part of the DIY cover going on.
I am not a trimmer’s distant cousin’s art hole, but this is an improvement already…
And then I broke the 10yo daughter’s sewing machine (not actually broken but, I don’t think - but it just tangles the thread now and I don’t know what to do to fix it).
Back to the parts car. It has 367,000km on it.
I wonder how many of those kays were done with these spark plugs?
It doesn’t actually run any better with replacement plugs in it - there’s still a misfire that appears to be across all cylinders at idle. Meh.
I also minimised the dent in the rear quarter panel. Results are better than the photos suggest, although still definitely not “good”.
Owners manual should have a zero in/setup process to get it in the ballpark of right. I have done that stuff a bunch over the years and am way more of a mechanical idiot than you are