The stock throttle body is drive by wire, and none of my likely ECUs can cope with it.
I have an old Cyborg Mirage throttle body that came with the long-departed Mirage Cup car. The previous owner had begun to upgrade to quad throttles, and literally left the standard manifold in a bucket, which then filled up with water...
Both are 60mm in diameter, and they look like the same bolt pattern, so the next task was to clean up the Cyborg TB on the blind assumption that it will fit.
Once again, I forgot to take “before” photos, but the state of the idle air control valve should be a useful hint.
Here’s a surprise - check the gasket between the TB and the IACV: it blocks off the IACV!?
IACV will be replaced with a plate. Being a race car, there’s minimal variation in the load on the engine at idle (lights on vs off, really), so I will follow Mitsubishi’s lead and run no IAC.
The alternator has four control pins which I needed to research.
Turns out that the factory ECU can drop the alternator output voltage down to 12.3V for emissions and to quieten the motor down in certain circumstances.
Initial comment all suggested that the alternator needs the pulse width modulated input from the ECU or it won’t work at all... so I spent some time internally debating whether it would be easier to get the aftermarket ECU to do it (and figure out what it needs), or fit a two pin alternator (with all the research involved).
But apparently it if you simply leave the two extra pins disconnected, then the alternator just works like an old style alternator. This is one of those things that I won’t be entirely confident about, until it is in the car and running and I put a multi-meter onto it.
Brake pads are an issue.
El Wifeo’s car was cooking the pads in a few laps, so I went to fit the QFM Evo Lancer pads I had left over from the blue car (DB1223). Despite looking very similar, it turns out that the CH Lancer pad is not a DB1223 - it’s slightly smaller and the tabs on the end are different.
Initial research is suggesting that a proper performance pad is going to be difficult/impossible to find for the CH caliper.
This is a problem for both her rally car and my race car.
The “easy” solution is to grab a couple of pairs of Pajero/V6 Magna/Evo twin piston calipers and fit them to both cars. Problem is tracking these down at a reasonable price, especially when the self-serve wreckers are off limits due to Covid restrictions.
If I commit to the 16” wheels on my car, then 295mm 380 brakes appear to be a bolt-on upgrade, and are cheaper/easier to find than the older 276mm brake calipers. But I need to check that I can buy decent pads for these too...
A bit more head scratching to happen here.
My brother has a 2 sets of 3000gt/GTO 4 piston front calipers if they are any use
Anything here in merika use the right callipers? Happy to pull and ship for you
Also re the alt... is there any conversions for using a 1 wire alt to just simplify it?
Cheers for the offer - I will research!
I will be converting the alternator to single wire.
One of the control wires goes directly to the battery - I will run it to the alternator power terminal rather than having another wire going back to the battery.
This motor is from the era where the alternator is bolted solidly to the motor and then the belt has an auto tensioner. I don’t know of anything with vaguely similar mounts that has a single wire.
Is It a standard denso that you could just swap the front and rear case from a same sized 1 wire denso?
One of the many bad points to selling my labour in exchange for money, is that it slows down race car builds. I get home with four hours of daylight, but insufficient energy to make use of the time.
Which is my lame way of saying that I didn’t get much done this arvo...
Good news is that the throttle body fits.
Bad news is that the throttle cable bracket is useless, and I will need to remake it.
Oil catch can is in. It’s almost Volvo content too - it came out of the old 244 race car.
Catch can lacks dolphin content :-(
And back on four wheels ... to work out spring seats.
Front is obviously far too high but I can’t do anything about it until the coil over sleeves arrive.
Rear is about right on stock Evo6(?)) springs. They’re not even close to being captive at this height.
Trial lower spring seat stoppers... 😀
So I am seriously wondering about making clamp-on spring seats.
Will be cheap and easy to make. They would also be easy to adjust like the hose clamps are - take the weight off the rear wheels, loosen the clamp, slide it to the desired height, and tighten them back up. Wouldn’t even need to remove the wheels.
Just have to convince myself that they will stay in place during a big off track excursion.
The rear brake hoses are too short (the other side is worse). I will get longer ones made, and I think that these ones will work on the front.
Thread pointy grub screws into side of adjuster and nip up with Loctite after adjustment.
Bonnet pins. I thought I was being clever putting them on an angle, but it was probably a dumb idea.
Finally getting OK at fitting them. Pretty happy with the way this came out in the centre of the hole.
New CH radiator turned up. Showed a dual core in the photos, turned out to be exactly the same core dimensions as the original 1.5 Mirage one, including being single core.
Top radiator hose is in a better spot than the Mirage one, but only slightly so.
Think that I will return it. Have loosely installed the Mirage one to give me something to aim for with fan wiring.
Not all experiments give the results you are hoping for!
After the hose clamps were surprisingly effective at holding the spring seats onto the rear shocks, I decided to try to make some clamp-on spring seat holders.
After roughing out four of them, I realised that I should prove the concept on just one before making the other three...
The first test was the tighten one up onto a short section of old shock body, and then use the vice to (try to) push the clamp along the shock body.
It failed at a very low force.
Hmmm. Maybe the short bit of shock body’s open end is more prone to distortion than a longer piece of tube, so I tried again on the strut the I broke when I rolled the RX7 a million years ago.
Nope, fail again.
I can get the clamp to hold against a decent load, but it is distorting the tube and stopping the floating piston from floating. If this was in a car, it would make the suspension action awful (at best).
You can actually feel the inside of the tube is a smaller diameter under the clamp, even after loosening the clamp off a fair way.
Time to cough up the cash for another pair of coilover sleeves, I think.
I have pondered the idea of multiple clamps (spreading the clamping load over a longer section of the shock body), but the time taken to make the clamps is enough to make that unappealing - especially without any certainly that it will iiihik f
On the bright side, I finally remembered to bring in the old gearbox top mount to cut up for re-use as the engine mount.
And I sorted the Motec wiring loom. It is brand new, but also a mess. I can see where they thought they were doing the right thing (Deutsch connectors everywhere), but there’s also so much dumb stuff: 1mm wires turning into 3mm; weird wiring paths; etc.
Engine mount ready for welding.
Also got some wiring done yesterday. Doesn’t look much different, but getting there.
Well, the engine bay looks much worse, but it’s forward progress.
Main things I need to work out are the coil and crank/cam position sensor wiring. This is going to need some actual research, but is rapidly becoming unavoidable.
The non-ECU wiring is mostly done. I still need to connect the wires to the headlights and tail-lights, and a few other bits and pieces, but I think that I have broken the back of the lights, blinkers, starter, etc.
Extractors are a PITA. The place in Perth that sells the good ones at a reasonable price are still on holidays until the 18th. Then I will have to wait for them to get here before I can get the rest of the exhaust done.
Engine mount finished.
Possible option for the rear coilovers.
These are the chinabay BMW coilovers I bought for the strut tops. The ID of the bodies is 49mm.
Trying to figure out if I can make the 49mm ID and the 50mm OD of the shock bodies work together.
Ideally, I would bore out the inside of the bodies, and then just slide them over the unmodified shocks, but I don’t know if I have the ability/lathe tools to do the boring that deep.
El Wifeo is entered for the second round of the Summer Series next weekend. Her pretty much prepped, with a few tidy-ups ahead of the rego inspection that’s booked for late next week.
I fitted the correct rear springs to the “wrong” shocks. It sits too high in the bum, but not outrageously so.
Clearly need to pull my finger out and make up the lower mounts for the proper rally shocks.
On my car, the reamer-for-tierod-ends experiment worked.
I did some reading about tierod tapers and decided to take a punt on a Chinabay reamer having the correct taper. It was the right one, which I demonstrated to my own satisfaction when I dropped it into the original Mirage upright and it locked into the taper...
The end of the reamer is 13.4mm which I could just wriggle into the chuck of my drill. Then slowly and carefully with heaps of WD40, the Chinabay reamer worked its way into the steering arm - both tierod ends now sit in the (half depth) taper perfectly, so I cannot foresee any dramas at all.
However... I did the passenger’s side on a bit too big/deeply. It still tightens up perfectly, but I need to check how much travel it has, and that the out portion of the TRE won’t contact the steering arm at any combination of suspension travel and steering lock.
That task can wait until the coilover sleeves arrive and I have it all back apart again. Worst case is another trip to the wreckers for another CH upright.
Yesterday, I stopped at the wreckers in Goulburn. Tried to buy a pair of the twin piston front calipers for ElWifeo’s car - removed a pair from an AWD Magna, and then realised that they have the Evo6-style 158mm wide mounting points rather than the 128mm of lesser Mirages/Lancers and S40s. * sigh *
I did successfully obtain the power steering pump mount from a CH Lancer for my car. A week or two back, I realised that the serpentine belt needs the PS pump, or I was up for a bunch of pain in making mounts for idler pulleys - at that point, it definitely seemed obvious that the simplest path out was to refit the PS.
So a used pump was dutifully ordered from ebay, but when it arrived it became obvious that I didn’t have the correct bracket for the PS pump... I got motivated enough to fit the bracket this morning, but then the heat beat me.
The new timing belt kit arrived last week, but they sent me two balance shaft belts and no timing belt, so another thumbs down there.
Nice ream job 😉
El Wifeo drove her white rally car in the second round of the Summer Series at Pheasant Wood on Sunday.
No real tweaks since the track day: fitted the rally springs to the interim rear shocks; some camber pins to the front; some ancient old Yokohama AO48 semi slicks; and Brembo road pads to the front.
The car understeered like a pig all day, but it was never built to be a race car. Brakes held up, nothing rattled off, and it is surprisingly fast in a straight line.
After qualifying slowest, she didn’t finish worse than 3rd last.
Best lap time was a 67.6x, IIRC.
Now to finish the sump guard and get a log book & rego.
Me: No more shitboxes.
Also me, on the same day:
The aqua one belonged to a mate who didn’t know that you need to oil pod filters - it has sucked a lot of dust and now blows a lot of smoke.
Interestingly, this is the first one that I have seen without power steering. It’s an early base spec one (no rear windscreen wiper, grey bumpers, etc), but has air conditioning.
The white one has been sitting under a tree near a local park for months now. I left a note on the windscreen... and forget to put my number on it... 😔
Luckily the owner is a car guy and took a punt on who I was, and sent me a message through FB. The motor has locked up, so is going into the bin.
The idea is for the white one to become a road car. Basically chasing fuel economy (for environmental reasons, not really cost) - I have struggled with the lack of safety, but have concluded that it is approximately as safe a motorbike but more resistant to kangaroos. Riding the road bike to work was an option, but for the ‘roo risk, so the need for mental gymnastics wasn’t too great. Starting and finishing work early means that I miss the worst of the traffic, and the insanity of the Barton is largely avoided.
I’ve washed it with truck wash twice now... while it looks MUCH better, it still looks terrible. Needs at least one more wash before I polish it. On the bright side, the paint doesn’t seem pitted or otherwise damaged - just heaps of black mould from sitting covered in leaves.
Roofracks were pop riveted on. Less sikaflex than I feared, but nothing too outrageous.
The holes will be covered with vinyl.
I will start a new build thread for this car, as it is sufficiently different to the other Mirages.
Edit - Here: https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/13860/mirage-hyper-miler#latest