Boring 240, back to rego thread.

turboslobtBob (@turboslob) Canberra region
Bought a 1990 240 wagon which is a bit rough. I’m no mechanic, but I’m going to attempt to get it back on the road.
To start, I’ve made two lists that I’ll attempt to prioritise. First, ‘to do before rego’ followed by ‘post rego/dreaming’. Who knows how realistic they are; I’ve a habit of buying and selling.

Prior to rego


New battery (current is dead).
Get it running smooth (surging idle, stumbling at low RPM, stalling etc).
Fix lights (need new lense on rear and need to inspect front left [kangaroo hit] damage to determine what needs to be done).
Confirm if it needs new engine mounts (engine moves around a little, unsure if it’s excessive or normal).
Fluids change (oil, oil filter, inspect air filter, transmission, diff, inspect brake & P/S fluid). Flame trap examine
Look at oil leaks and determine how bad they are.
Sort out the rubber stripes along sides. Thinking of removing them all, but it looks like glue is now along the doors. Any idea if what can remove this without stuffing the paint?

Post rego (or earlier if I have the above done)
Replace driver’s seat
Sort A/C
M47 swap
Get it to handle better
Get stereo to work

So far (after I wrote the above), I gave it a quick wash and recharged the battery – seems to have worked. Also, found lower, outside rubber door trim for both sides. Will re-glue.

Current questions:

1. Are the passenger and driver seats interchangeable?
2. If you suspect stale fuel (I’m confident most is a year or so old), is there an easy way to drain? If, not, it may be easier to idle it in the driveway and pop in some fresher stuff.
3. What do people use to re-attach the outer, lower door rubber? I have some re-attaching to do.

Thanks, Slob.

Hoping having this thread inspires me to get it back on the road.
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Comments

  • turboslobtBob (@turboslob) Canberra region
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    Stubanger
  • turboslobtBob (@turboslob) Canberra region
    I think it looks better in pics than reality.
  • The seats can be swapped left to right once you swap the runners, however as the recliner adjuster is on the right side of the right seat and the left side of the left seat, this will be a problem. You can use strong 3M double sided tape for the lower door moulds.

    As for the old fuel, there is no practical way of draining it, it's cheaper to use it up anyway. Fill it with fresh fuel

    It looks like you also need a left indicator lens. Let me know if I can help you with that as I have a few spares.
  • I think you can swap the recliner knob from left to right, but the lumbar knob can’t be moved unless you want a hole in your upholstery. It works fine on the opposite side anyway.

    The black strips should have some clips going into holes in the door panel, and double-sided automotive moulding adhesive tape strips at top and bottom as well.

    You mention the rubber stripes along the sides of the car - are you referring to the black strips at the bottom of the doors (which you allude to trying to glue back on - they can’t be removed without exposing holes in the door panel) or are you referring to the vinyl adhesive tape strip just below the door windows? Those can be removed with a lot of effort - there’s a thread on here somewhere about it.

    Good project!
  • Seats:

    Yeah, as above. I've swapped seats before for some reason that I forget now. Grease on one maybe. I usually set up an outdoor plastic table next to the car with a clean blanket over it. Then tilt/close the seat up several turns of the side wheel, to make it easier to lift out without catching on anything. Remove the four nuts/bolts and lift it out. Then I lay it on it's SIDE first on the blanket, with the runners facing out towards me (so no grease ever gets on the blanket because it ALWAYS then gets on the seat cloth, grrr). Unwind it as far as it will go (like you're lying it down to sleep in the car). Then flip it over so the back of the seat and slide rail are pointing to the sky.

    Sometimes if I'm working on just ONE seat I'll only wind it out to 90 degrees, and put the runners to the sky and headrest off the table to the ground. But I always find the seats are.. 'off-balance' and want to fall off the table. So if you do it that way, beware it doesn't fall off into the dirt. (You have to stand against the back of the seat while you work, to stop it toppling off the table.)

    Then slide out and swap each lower rail section so the mount holes line up with the car floor again.

    You'll probably think I'm just waffling, but I learned these steps after seats falling off tables, getting grease on the blanket which then got on my clothes which in turn got on the covers - all after being careful not to. Which then meant I had pull the covers off to degrease and wash them.

    But... Why are you swapping? A sunken seat?? The guy doing rego might get in the car, go to adjust the seat, see that they're swapped over, and have a sook. Maybe it will bother him, maybe it won't. So why not just fix the seat while it's out. A sunken seat is fixed in 30 minutes with parts from another - and is done with the seat in that same position on the table anyway. (You could just swap the seat wire pad.) You'll see how when you flip the first seat over, but it's only slightly more difficult to fix in-situ with parts.

    Basically:

    1. Use a piece of thin nylon rope to pull two opposing springs toward each other, to release some tension of a couple of seat grid wires.
    2. Use pliers to undo the 'loop twist' in each end of a few of those 'new' wires to remove them. Do the same until you have enough wires. Hint: Do more than necessary - add extras to the broken seat - the more wires you install, the less tension on each one.
    3. Do the same thing to the broken seat to remove old and fit new wires.

    Note: The wires cut into the seat foam over time too, leaving a 'foam powder' on the carpet. So I like to slice some 'pope irrigation risers' along their entire length with a stanley knife, then force the wire inside them with a flat screwdriver. (They're thick and difficult to cut, so they close up again nicely once on the wire.) I think this is them: https://www.bunnings.com.au/pope-450mm-rigid-riser-with-adaptor-10-pack_p3120413 - you could also just do something like slide a sheet of ??? between the foam and wire grid - maybe a square cut from a large plastic bucket, etc.

    Or... Since it is so easy and fast to swap seats from the correct side... Just borrow someone else's driver seat for the inspection, swap it back an hour later, and fix yours whenever you feel like it, LOL.

    Fuel:

    If the tank was 1/2 to 3/4 full I'd think twice about using it. There is a couple of ways to drain it though... You could pull the rubber hose off the rear of the pressure regulator, make sure it's directed down into a container so NO FUEL SPILLS anywhere it can ignite (run it through a piece of old garden hose down to ground level maybe) - then bridge fuses 4 & 6 together. The in-tank pump will turn on and pump the fuel out.

    You could also do similar under the car at the fuel filter. Pull off the line going into the filter from the tank, direct it into a container, then the same fuse connection to turn on the pump. Just be smart with wires/fuel.

    When you think the fuel level is low enough, replace the filter with a new one, hose back on, fill tank with fresh fuel. (I say only low, because I think it's recommended not to run it completely dry.) Now the old fuel is heavily diluted by fresh so any ill effects (poor running, etc.) are minimal to zero.

    Note when you renew the filter, that fuel in the line forward of that point will run back out on you too - spread rags around first to soak it up.

    Strip/glue:

    I haven't seen the type of glue behind the strips yet. But a brown rubber wheel used for removing decal stripes from an auto store should do it. It's sometimes called a 'caramel wheel'. Just don't leave it spinning in the same spot - move it around a lot, taking a little off each spot over a longer time - so the friction doesn't 'burn' the paint. It probably says something about what drill speed to use on the packet too. But have you thought about removing the lot of them? Maybe you can check photos online of what it looks like with them gone first.

    Reattaching those I haven't done either. But auto stores sell rolls of a very thin, double-sided, black plastic tape with adhesive on each side. It's about 1cm wide. The panel beater I worked at years ago had me clean the rubber trim thoroughly (all faces) with 'wax and grease remover' using an open-weave cloth that doesn't leave any lint behind (like the polishing cloths that come in 'fathers day' buckets of car products).

    Then you cut a strip of tape a bit longer than the trim, peel the waxed paper off one side, stick the tape onto the trim edge. Keep filling the back with tape until it's covered, then use a (clean/new) razor blade to slice away any excess.

    Then set it down, wash your hands, clean the car paint with wax & grease remover too. Then peel the outer paper off the tape and stick it to the car, now being careful not to touch the adhesive. If you only just lightly touch it to the paint first, you can often pull it back off several times to reposition it if needed. You could also eliminate any guesswork by removing the glue, giving the paint a reasonable clean, then holding the trim back up against the car to position it exactly right, and stick four bits of painters tape - 2 per corner (one vertical, one horizontal) at two opposite corners. No mistakes when positioning that way. Then do the other steps - including wax & grease remover JUST BEFORE you fit the trim piece. (Because you if do clean it 5 minutes before, you can guarantee old polish or wax will somehow get on your fingers, then on one of the surfaces, and it will soon fall off again.)
  • are you referring to the black strips at the bottom of the doors (which you allude to trying to glue back on - they can’t be removed without exposing holes in the door panel)

    Oh, do they!? I thought I'd seen later models with those strips removed on purpose.

    Edit: What about the 'skirt' under the bumper that curves around the side to the rear wheels - does that have holes underneath too?
  • are you referring to the black strips at the bottom of the doors (which you allude to trying to glue back on - they can’t be removed without exposing holes in the door panel)

    Oh, do they!? I thought I'd seen later models with those strips removed on purpose.

    Edit: What about the 'skirt' under the bumper that curves around the side to the rear wheels - does that have holes underneath too?

    Yes, IIRC there is a clip hole at the front and rear of each trim strip on each door, and at least one (maybe 2 holes) on the front guard). I can have a look at my 93 re: rear valence panel - know there will be at least one hole exposed in the flange on the rear of the wheel arch. Will report back.
  • Thanks. I've seen it said many times to remove (only) the back piece (under the bumper) to fit a tow bar. So I guess that's why they leave the piece on, just behind the rear wheel. I'll have to get a close look at a car with just the valance piece (under the bumper) removed to see what it looks like/any holes/how obvious it is.
  • Yeah there will be 2 square holes in the side behind the wheel, and also the mud flap won't fit right as it integrates with the valence panel. Best bet is to leave the side bits on and cut out where you need to in the middle for the tow bar.
  • I must have replied to the wrong threat this morning as I did have a look. The lower black trims have 2 holes in each door for alignment pins, 2 holes in each front guard, and the 2 rectangular holes in the rear guards for a clip. Not sure about the short piece just behind the rear door, but probably irrelevant. If you removed all that trim you'd have a lot of holes to fill and repaint.
  • jamesincJames (@jamesinc) Oz Volvo Ice Fortress
    You can drain the tank if you like by disconnecting the fuel feed line and powering the fuel pumps up so it drains into a jerry can or whatever, but I agree with ramrod probably just fill it up with fresh 98. Once you've gone through a tank, replace the fuel filter (not required but presumably you don't know when it was last changed).

    If you are really concerned about the fuel and/or the tank is really full, just put a tube down the filler neck and siphon it out. You can get shaker siphons/safety siphons/jiggle siphons, basically a hose with a valve on one end, you just shake the valve up and down and it slowly draws fuel up the line until the siphon effect starts.

    In addition to checking the flame trap, might be worth pulling the PCV off (below the intake toward the rear of the motor, black plastic box, held in by two 12mm bolts), and flushing it out with carby cleaner. Put some carby cleaner in it, plug the holes with your fingers and give it a good shake, then drain it and watch, aghast, as chunks of carbon fall out. Rinse and repeat (literally, rinse it through with hot water).
    carnut222
  • turboslobtBob (@turboslob) Canberra region
    edited April 4
    I'm impressed with all the feedback and helpful hints - thanks. I began to respond individually, but it would take too long and be duplicative.

    First, re seats, I want to swap as the driver's seat has sunk a bit. No where near as comfy as the passenger's, and that's (another) reason I like Volvos; great seats. Family man, when more free time is available, I'll be re-reading your epic post - you really went the extra mile on that one - thanks.

    Re fuel, as it's missing a little and stumbles, I'll first start with putting some more in. It's sitting on about a quarter, so I'll put in $20 and hope for the best. Annoying thing is, without rego, I can't take it for a run hope it clears itself. The one drive home it did improve how it runs.

    Re strips, thanks (I was referring to the external ones on the bottom of the doors (two missing, one hanging on in pics). I'll look into double sided tape and give it a shot. I'm looking forward to doing this as I really think it'll make it look far less 'beaten'. Just need to work out what I'll use to maintain pressure against it while it dries.

    PVC will be now be added to list.

    Got in the shed for a few mins last night - front LHS damage wasn't too bad. Cleaned up all the tape remnants and got a new lense on. Seems to be ok, but sticks out a lot due to the dent. Again, hope it isn't a roadworthy issue (a few months ago I got knocked back for not having a side-globe covered; they seem strict here).

    Before:

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    After
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    My other car has possibly sold (got a verbal deal), so a hurry-up might be in order soon!

    Out of interest, do people in the group often order from IPD and split postage costs in Oz? Almost bought a bunch of small things today, then postage quote was $75......
    Anyone in Canberra, or even Oz, after any small parts? I was surprised how cheap little things were.
  • Ex850RSnoopy (@Ex850R) Somewhere Over the Rainbow. Melbourne.
    The cost of postage should be less than that.
    Look at fcp for parts too or in the vendor section on here.
    A group buy is ok if you live in same place as others as Auspost charge so much.
    The cost of parts is cheap, buy filters or consumables to make up a package that makes the post worth it. The money you save buying from there far outstrips the post compared to parts cost here.
    cancer sucks
  • 240240 (@240) Canberra
    @turboslob have you looked at FCP Euro? I find them a bit better on price than IPD, although shipping is still a lot.
    I'm also in Canberra so could potentially split postage costs at some point. I was planning to do an order in about 6 weeks, not sure if you're wanting to wait that long though.

    By the way your headlight reflectors look very faded, which is common on these. You should try and find some replacements as you'll be amazed by the difference.
    Each reflector is held in by 3 white clips which usually break on removal, so you should have spares on hand.

    It's very fiddly but it wouldn't hurt to replace the oil breather box too, it's located on the engine block under the intake manifold.
    And also clean the throttle body, it will likely be dirty.
  • Why not change the fender/guard - it's been a while since I did one, but as I recall it was fairly easy.

    Regarding USA postage... The last time I placed an FCP order, I ordered multiple consumables to reduce the overall postage and make it more worth it. Then I split the order in two to reduce government charges.

    I also entered all parts into a spreadsheet. Then tried several combinations of swapping parts between the two boxes (adding and removing from the online cart) to see what postage quotes FCP would spit out. I forget now, but it did reduced the postage. But I got distracted, then later that week when I placed the order I forgot all about doing it that way and paid maybe $20 or $30 more than necessary. :anguished:

    I also thought about what I was including in each box.

    e.g. I ordered 10x oil filters which come in a large block sealed with plastic. So in that same box I put the water pump. In the other box I put gaskets, air filters, a thermostat, fuel relay - lighter things of a similar weight/size (as much as possible) that I guessed wouldn't destroy each other - like relays or gaskets being crushed or torn by a bouncing water pump.

    (If you haven't ordered from USA parts stores before, they're terrible packers... They'll use a large box for a small part just because it was the first box they laid their hand on - and put nothing else in to stop movement. Then parts ricochet around, punching holes through the cardboard, nearly rip through the ONE strip of packing tape holding the box together, LOL.)

    Oh, and if you do split an order, I think a few of us have come to the same conclusion to order them several days apart. So you're not making it obvious to customs, so they don't take it upon themselves to get creative and combine the two in their paperwork to charge us more.
  • Yet then there's China who subsidise their postage so that their exporters can have the advantage of free postage.
  • Great isn't it... An item all the way from China is free (if Aliexpress items actually turn up, that is). But to then send that same item 40km is $20-$30.

    Oh, and Bob - If ordering two boxes several days apart to avoid customs fees - don't order the 2nd box until after they email you the first box has been shipped. Why?

    a) I ordered box 1. Then a few days later, assuming they'd sent box 1 by now, I ordered box 2. But then they sent two emails saying both boxes were shipped the same day. (For whatever reason they delayed sending the first box.) This meant both boxes could have turned up at the same time and been noticed by customs. After forgetting about my postage-saving order-split trick and paying $20-$30 more for shipping, I wasn't impressed.

    b) Luckily they didn't also do to me, what I think I read they did to someone else here... Where they sent two separate boxes, but included BOTH invoices with ONE box - thus increasing its value as far as customs was concerned. Yippee - more fees - thanks Harvey Norman.

    Ordering box 1, then waiting for a 'your order has been shipped' email before ordering box 2, avoids all this.

    I forget the ins & outs of the value/limits now. So maybe do a search on here for "customs" and read some old threads before ordering.
  • @familyman yeah that was me who got screwed by UPS with an FCP order they split into two boxes...invoice was total amount of order on each box, so UPS tried to charge me full import duty/customs fees on each box. To compound things, I added a few parts for a mate and that pushed the total value to something like $1012AUD...just enough over to get screwed. Fortunately I was able to create a separate invoice for each box and that brought each box under the $1000AUD, so I “only” had to pay like $89 customs fee to UPS on each box to get them released.
  • turboslobtBob (@turboslob) Canberra region
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    240 (@240) wrote: »
    @turboslob have you looked at FCP Euro? I find them a bit better on price than IPD, although shipping is still a lot.
    I'm also in Canberra so could potentially split postage costs at some point. I was planning to do an order in about 6 weeks, not sure if you're wanting to wait that long though.

    By the way your headlight reflectors look very faded, which is common on these. You should try and find some replacements as you'll be amazed by the difference.
    Each reflector is held in by 3 white clips which usually break on removal, so you should have spares on hand.

    It's very fiddly but it wouldn't hurt to replace the oil breather box too, it's located on the engine block under the intake manifold.
    And also clean the throttle body, it will likely be dirty.

    I looked at FCP Euro, but they didn't have a few things I needed (need an annoying reverse lense for one of the tail-lights - I saw a light is $100!).

    It's likely I'll make an order in the next few weeks. Sold my other car today so in more of a rush to get it done.

    Did new oil and filter today. Oil filter was more awkward to get to than expected and the oil draining from it gets on errything. Also noticed a more severe oil leak than I previously thought, and lower rad hose could do with replacing (hose clip looks like it's really digging in on the engine side.

    Another question; what's the hose that looks like it comes off the exhaust headers and heats back towards the lower right-hand side of the radiator? It's covered in silver/foil looking material and doesn't transfer fluids. Some sort of thing to speed up getting the engine to operating temp? If that description's too bad, I'll snap a pic.
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