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360 (SOLVED) SPEED SENSOR FOR 360 LH2.4 CONVERSION

Hello my people,

My car is a volvo 360, but i have just swapped the b230 turbo engine. Engine management is from a 1992 940 se and was running fine before engine was removed. I have a brand new loom which was custom made based on the late model 240. Everything is running and it drives well, but definitely on the rich side and i do get some flat spots when going full boost in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear, which i suspect is from the following codes:

1-2-3 + 3-1-1 on the lh2.4 ecu
And
2-2-4 on the ezk ecu

Both 1-2-3 and 2-2-4 are for the coolant temp sensor - no signal or faulty...
3-1-1 is speedo signal.

I replaced the sensor and im still getting the codes.
I checked the connector and rolled back the rubber boot to expose the wires and noticed one wire had freed itself from the crimp terminal on the plug. I have since reconnected it and im still getting the same codes.

Now, the 1-2-3 code can be reset and will show 1-1-1 but will return once the engine is started. the 2-2-4 code, however, wont reset at all!

Im also getting this hunting/surging idle problem where it will go from 900rpm to 2000rpm. It will idle fine until its warm and i take her for a drive. I am assuming that its likely the IAC valve causing the idle issues, does anyone have any input to share on this matter?
Edit: its also worth noting that my new loom came with a wire to connect to the speedo. My 360 doesnt have the connections at the back of the instrument cluster as it has a cable driven speedo.

These codes and idle issues are driving me crazy. Id really like to get to the bottom of it and any help is greatly appreciated.

Comments

  • I believe LH 2.4 needs a speed signal to work and idle 100% properly
    ALVO360
  • edited March 31
    Thanks @ramrod - I was looking at the lh2.4 ecu pinout and noticed that pin 34 is for the speed sensor and it says:
    "Used to adjust idle speed during engine braking and for constant idle speed compensation" - Sounds important! 😅

    Any idea how I could connect it to the 360 in anyway? It seems like a bit of a roadblock if i cant connect it to the instrument cluster, surely there's a way to make it work, but where could i get the signal from?

    As for the codes, have you ever experienced not being able to reset codes? I have had the battery disconnected overnight and am yet to test if i can now reset the codes (But i want to sort out the coolant temp sensor first as I couldnt find a new crimp terminal for the plug, so i reused the one i took out which looked like it had just lost a battle on the front line. I have since removed the terminal waiting for tomorrow before i can sort it out).
  • edited March 31
    Update:

    I remembered that i have a spare loom that i could cut a connector off and join it temporarily. I did just that, but no change? I checked the resistance at the ecu (pin 13 and 5) and i was getting crazy figures bouncing everywhere from 6000ohms to 21000ohms. Checked the voltage at the ecu with the same pins, 0 volts?
    I swapped the new sensor with the old one and tried to reset the codes - success! Started the car, checked for codes and it flashed 1-1-1 on both ports. Hoorah!

    So, the initital coolant temp code 1-2-3 and 2-2-4 was from a stray wire in the new looms coolant temp connector. Once the wire was reconnected, it was the new temp sensor which was throwing the code. I bought a tridon TCS060 which came up as the correct sensor for the 1992 940 turbo. It's either it isnt the correct one or its faulty. Can anyone shed some light on this?

    Still getting the 3-1-1 code for the speedo signal and would like to sort that out. Im getting idle surges from 900-2000rpm. It goes to 2000 for 3 seconds then drops quickly to 1000 for half a second then shoots back up to 2000 and repeats this consistently. This happens only when i take the car for a drive, not when i start it and let it warm up. Now, when i squeeze the IAC valve hoses, it drops the idle and stops surging. If i disconnect the IACV it drops the idle to around 500rpm, which ive read is normal.
    Is it likely the IACV is the culprit here? I know it would be involved in the idle surge, but is it more likely the ecu is telling the IACV to activate because it doesnt have a signal from the speedo? Is there a way i can test the IACV? Or is their a way to bypass it safely and effectively?
  • Lh2.4 demands an input from the cluster to have idle work properly

    What's the 360 dash use for speed? A hall sensor in the diff or a cable off the trans?
    ALVO360
  • Lh2.4 demands an input from the cluster to have idle work properly

    What's the 360 dash use for speed? A hall sensor in the diff or a cable off the trans?

    It uses a cable from the front left wheel hub.
  • You need a tonewheel, or perhaps a device connected to the old speedo cable, that will provide square wave pulses to create the signal required by the ECU.

    Without this, the ECU sets 3-1-1, and also won't do engine load sensing. Additionally, the fuel cutoff on throttle over-run feature is disabled, so the car will pop and bang on over-run, and will hunt for idle (which you're experiencing).

    The LH 2.4 Greenbook provides a better and very thorough explanation of it all, but it's at home and I am not (at present).

    Cleanflametrap's page on the LH 2.4 240 speedo (see link below) shows you what signals need to be generated - note the square wave he shows at pin 3 of the IC.

    http://cleanflametrap.com/speedo.html

    A 271 Hz signal into a 240 non-ABS speedo circuit gives a speedo reading of 5 MPH.
    A 660 Hz signal into a 240 non-ABS speedo circuit gives a speedo reading of 60 MPH.
    ALVO360
  • Lh2.4 demands an input from the cluster to have idle work properly

    What's the 360 dash use for speed? A hall sensor in the diff or a cable off the trans?

    It uses a cable from the front left wheel hub.

    The 940 cluster weighs like 200g
    Toss one in the back of the car and add a tone ring and sensor to the diff
    You want this anyways for doing other stuff (traction control) later
    ALVO360
  • You need a tonewheel, or perhaps a device connected to the old speedo cable, that will provide square wave pulses to create the signal required by the ECU.

    Without this, the ECU sets 3-1-1, and also won't do engine load sensing. Additionally, the fuel cutoff on throttle over-run feature is disabled, so the car will pop and bang on over-run, and will hunt for idle (which you're experiencing).

    The LH 2.4 Greenbook provides a better and very thorough explanation of it all, but it's at home and I am not (at present).

    Cleanflametrap's page on the LH 2.4 240 speedo (see link below) shows you what signals need to be generated - note the square wave he shows at pin 3 of the IC.

    http://cleanflametrap.com/speedo.html

    A 271 Hz signal into a 240 non-ABS speedo circuit gives a speedo reading of 5 MPH.
    A 660 Hz signal into a 240 non-ABS speedo circuit gives a speedo reading of 60 MPH.

    Thank you very much for taking the time to post all of that. This is all very interesting and explains a lot. I'll be looking into it to see what I can come up with. Thanks again
  • bgpzfm142bgpzfm142 (@bgpzfm142) Launceston TAS
    edited April 2
    I had a bit of think about it, and what you actually need is something along the lines of what Mister Bear suggested.
    Although I don't believe the M47 transaxle has provision for a speedo drive or fitting a tonewheel type device to it. LH 2.4 240s, Sevens and Nines have a tonewheel in the diff. 360s don't have diffs like them, and the De Dion setup doesn't lend itself to adding a speed measuring device to it easily.

    What I reckon you need is think about making a box which fits between the speedo and the speedo cable, that contains a mechanical tone wheel and a Hall sensor, which provides 12 pulses per revolution; an old 240 LH 2.4 speedo circuit board which has the required electronics; electrical connectons for the 12V power for the Hall sensor and speedo board; and a pair of mechanical connectors (1 male + 1 female) which allow this box to piggyback to the back of the speedo.

    The 12x tone wheel within this adapter box just needs to sit on an axle of some sort, so that it's a 1:1 throughput from the speedo cable going to the front wheel, to the speedo connector on the speedo itself. That way, you'd have your normal speedo as usual.

    It should be possible to knock up something like this for yourself for a loss less dollars than the arm and leg that one mob is the US is asking for a box that does something like this. Your build thread shows you've got a lot of very good skills.
    ALVO360egads
  • @bgpzfm142 thank you kindly. There's got to be a way to get it done. I was reading a post where someone had 3d printed a tone ring to fit at the cluster between the speedo and cable just like you suggested. Ive sent him an email, so hopefully I can get some insight to what and how to do something similar.
    Thanks very much for helping me brainstorm this. Ill get back to you with the guys response once i hear from him.
    bgpzfm142
  • edited May 11
    @bgpzfm142 I have just heard back from Tony at 300mania who has sorted his speed sensor issue (or lack of one) by installing a cluster mounted bracket which is found in the 440's, which mounts a 'hall sensor' and an 'axial resistor'. He 3d printed his and has saved a public 3d printing file here:
    https://www.tinkercad.com/things/d7KWyZdxanN-vehicle-speedo-speed-sensor-holder-1980s-vw-volvo

    Link to the thread:
    http://www.volvo300mania.com/uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=16514

    Here's some pics:
    fd7bm6sv1afd.jpg
    6929tko054lj.jpg
    8d4q7cql7ubu.jpg

    Tony was even kind enough to offer to supply me a kit. It will be great to have this sorted out.
    bgpzfm142
  • That's a really awesome way to do it - simple and hassle free. I'll have to read the article.
    ALVO360
  • edited May 11
    Here's a pic I took of the cluster with the plastic cover removed next to the speedo gear(?) Showing a magnetic wheel/disc.

    13hbwfd1ktlp.jpg
    bgpzfm142
  • Just an update on this. Made my own speed sensor and it worked like a charm. Total cost was about $5...even better.

    Follow instructions from link in previous post.
    bgpzfm142
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