Best Content of All Time
So have been busy on the amazon trying to get as much done before ozvolvo nationals.
Stripped the bonnet and didn’t mind the look of it so clear coated it
Painted the turbo and ran new braided lines
Mounted up the stub tech torana 2”drop spindles with commodore brakes
Stripped countless amounts of dead weight from the c30 looms and wrapped them in fresh Tessa tape
Got the guards and nose cone soda blasted, etch primed,filled,painted and polished them
Polished all the chrome and stainless on the front end
Made up the intake box cover
Got new 17x8 and 17x9 wheels and powder coated the front bar black also replaced all of the bar bolts and guard bolts with stainless dome hex head bolts
I’m currently working on some other stuff like shortened borgWarner commodore diff with my 4link brackets, new custom Holden/Volvo ball joints, airbag suspension,some interior stuff and a stainless 3”down pipe so will post up photos of that stuff in the next few weeks:)
I have always loved the 73's. I much prefer the corrected wiper swing, nicer dash (in my opinion) newer tail lights etc, but love that it still retains some of the earlier features like 1/4 windows, the much, much better looking fuel cap and the skinnier bumpers and rear stone tray.
That being said i think Volvo made a big mistake going away from the early 164 front bumper, it looks really nice yet the straight bumper doesn't seem to cut it. I understand it was somewhat of a stepping stone toward the big bumpers being introduced in 74, even the bumper rubbers were changed to more closely resemble those that were coming a year later.
For some time i have been considering fitting a early front bumper.
1. The rubber on the bumper is solid, whereas the 73 is grooved (the rear one is obviously grooved also)
2. Grille would need to be changed and the early aluminium grille will foul on my intercooler.
3. I have the late tail lights and as much as I prefer them I am afraid it may look a little unbalanced.
Possible solutions to above issues
1. Fit a solid rubber style rear bumper
or Fit the grooved rubbers off a 73 bumper to the early bumper
2. Fit the early grille spaced forward
or I could Fabricate a 1 off '73 style plastic grill that fits the larger opening.
After much deliberation and measuring I figured if I were at designer at Volvo back in 73 i would have retained the early bumper and updated the grille , this is still fitting with the theory that it was a stepping stone model.
I decided to just get stuck into it.
first up a change of rubbers for the early bumper
these are not bolt ons, the early rubber is held in place with a bunch of nuts around its perimeter, these are cast into the rubber. the 73 rubbers are fitted to a steel reinforcing plate that ir retained by four screws. Additionally the grooved rubbers are longer, meaning that when fitted to the bumper they protrude out into the opening formed by the drop down section of the bumper. I reshaped the curve of the reinforcing plates essentially moving the rubber further around the corner and away from the drop, only a little trim of the top corners is required. it only needed about 20mm. 4 new holes in the bumper on each side and the rubbers screw on nicely.
Next up is removal of the old bumper, grille and grille surround to allow removal of the filler panel that is fitted to the later cars in order to allow them to run a smaller grille. this is held in place with 5 spot welds. my filler panel had already been modified slightly to fit the intercooler years ago.
I then fitted the grille surround from an early car, it fits in place nicely but the screw holes at the top are in a different place and need to be redrilled. My intercooler pipes also foul on this slightly so this area required a little trim.
I took a couple of 164 grilles and chopped them up, then spent many hours plastic welding and shaping and rewelding, the lower corners took some real work as there was not a piece that shape to weld in, I had to fabricate them from nothing. finally a bit of primer, a rub back and a coat of silver as close to original as I could get.
The grille slash is also a challenge... one which I am not yet happy with, it is just not long enough to reach and a join is required. ... still working on this.. will come back to it. Apart from that I am really happy with it.
Fits like a glove using the original screw holes at the top and pins at the bottom.
Still have some final assembly to do and am hoping I can find a cleaner early bumper as this one is a bit twisted. but overall pretty happy with it. Still looks very 73 but with a little more character.
Hefty pic update! This kept me busy all Winter. Continuing on with the theme of legitimately trying to improve an old Volvo, (mostly on the inside and underneath), I have reworked the interior.
• Total conversion to Black plastics
• Refinish all interior parts, switches etc
• Grey carpet
• Electric windows
• Central locking
• Sound system
• 2 x Velo GPT1 seats
• Retrimmed back seat to match Velo
• White Cluster and GLE gauge pod
• Sound and heat insulation improvements
• Steering wheel
• New seat belts
This is how it was:
The Dash, Glovebox, Rear shelf and speaker spacers were 'flocked' in BLACK :-)
I used the original rear shelf and reinforced it with MDF:
Letting Sikaflex dry overnight:
Filled and sanded:
The door trims and hardware are now 164E courtesy of @Angus242164 who supplied me some nice Orange door trims and inner handles etc which I recoloured into Black.
These style of door trims use screws to help retain the upper portion which I'm not a huge fan of, so I used Christmas tree clips instead:
The main reason for switching door panels is I could fit some 3 way splits with decent woofers into a decent location unlike the 240. The window winder hole is covered by mid and tweeter:
Crossovers are mounted under the seats:
Needed to come up with a fascia for a standard single DIN and Volvo does not make that easy! Ended up cutting the middle out of this later 80's fascia and then making some alloy brackets in the centre control panel which were then Sikaflexed together, very strong and looks okay:
Fabricated some steel seat brackets using Velo Brackets as a base, then had then powder coated. The seat belts are Australian made by APV and off the shelf for a 240. The part number includes these fixed webbing style buckles:
I wanted the dash lights to be better all round. The candle power dash makes any car feel weak. Converted everything to LED, including the cluster using generic style lamp base:
Plastic parts. All the door handle parts are from US and genuine Black. Some other parts were sprayed using VHT vinyl spray after being washed with hot soapy water, wax and grease remover then heated up. I've found here and in the past that doing in this way and spraying very thin coats is very durable and hard to scratch off.
Thanks to @dmc for letting me raid his 265 for it's electric window parts. I used everything, including the wiring and made a custom console harness using the drivers master switch harness. Then used a later model console and modified the upper and lower areas for window switches. It's an okay way to use manual window door trims and simplify wiring. Front switches next to hand brake lever are narrow pre 85ish switches and the rear switches up top are later 240/740/850 style switches.
More colouring. I actually bought a new mirror plastic trim piece from the US in Black and then painted it Black to match all the other Black:
I bought a used GLE gauge pod a while back then reworked some gauges and slotted in new ones, modified to D.Barton specs with some NOS decals (before he got shut down)
It's a time consuming job to pry apart each gauge and not ruin them:
It was a lot of work but having a matching dash setup and interior really helps make the car now, at least from the drivers point of view. Most onlookers just see 'old car':
Fitted a fair amount of new sound deadening where I could and tried to improve some areas where Volvo cheaped out:
Fitted this internal shifter boot from a late 90's Toyota Surf. Fit's great:
It then has another boot over top of that, then the main shifter boot bracket and then the shifter boot over top of all that! (on top of the carpet) It's much quieter now.
The B-Pillar factory sound deadening behind the plastic trims was masking tape :-), ended up making and gluing these plugs into place. Maybe no difference but in my mind:
Made an ABS enclosure for the washer bottle and some of the electrics on the front passenger side too, seals it off nicely:
Have been super happy with the suspension setup, now settled to a nice height. Will post an update on the front setup shortly:
I'd like to share my story with you all.
Just under 5 years ago I bought my first volvo 360, it was red and Immaculate car inside and out. Owned by the same family its whole life and was well cared for but needed a bit of TLC to get her running right. I spent the time and money to get her up to code with basic maintenance and she was running beautifully.
In October of 2014 I took the little red rocket out for a drive and when coming back home, a young lady distracted by her phone ran a red light, T-boned me and ended up writing off both the car and myself. I ran two businesses at the time, a landscaping and gardening business and a tree services business (arborist), which I had been running for 4 years. The back of the 360 was trashed and so was mine. I ended up with permanent nerve damage in my spine which resulted in me having to live with chronic back pain to this day, making the simplest of daily tasks absolute agony.
I found three 360's between the accident and i bought them all. None of them were great and only 1 was worth restoring, but still nothing special. I saw this one come up on gumtree and i couldnt resist the temptation, so I put down a deposit, sold my FZ1000 motorbike and bought the 360 the same day.
Although the paint was average and it had its problems, I was determined to own, drive and love a 360 again.
It was around this time last year that i started my build thread, doing as much as I could with the limitations I have. Nothing hurts me more than working on a car, but despite the pain I have been determined to finish what I started almost 5 years ago with my first 360.
This isnt just any project for me, it is a test of my resilience...And what a test it has been so far.
Just finished doing a manual conversion on my 262C so I thought I'd post some info.
I parted out an '80 264GLE manual to get most of the parts.
I wanted it to be manual so it would be better to drive and have better fuel usage. plus the BW55 was terrible, I had considered fitting an AW71, but I'd prefer to have a manual. with the 3 speed at 110 it would rev at 3500rpm, fuel economy and acceleration were pretty bad. The car has a recently rebuilt B28E with bigger exhaust and some minor modifications, so I was happy to keep the current engine.
@Angus242164 supplied a new clutch hose
I have a band new V6 clutch spare, but when I removed the one from the parts car it appeared to be almost new, so I decided to use it. I used the pedal box from an '89 240 since it was already removed, basically everything else came from the 264 or was bought new.
New pressure plate bolts with T40 head
Auto pedal box and firewall panel removed
Also took the opportunity to fit a later brake booster, the early one worked fine but the hole for the check valve is bigger and a standard seal//valve doesn't fit.
Manual firewall panel installed
Pedal box fitted with new pedal covers
Clutch master cylinder installed
Flywheel, pilot bearing, new rear main seal, and clutch installed.
Clutch hydraulics and throw out bearing installed
Gearbox and shiftier installed
Clutch hose connected, not much clearance on a V6.
Vibration dampener and OD solenoid installed
After running it I realised the gearbox was sitting too high and the shiftier linkage was rubbing on the top of the tunnel. I fitted these spacers off an AW71 240 and it sits at the correct height.
Bertone gear knob with tan leather cover, the overdrive is on the end of a wagon wiper stalk.
Its much nicer to drive now, acceleration is better and a lot more responsive.
Next I plan to fit some bronze shiftier bushes and a slightly different leather cover
Just finished this Celica I picked up in time for Canberra's annual All Japanese car and bike show. Thanks to @Vee_Que for picking up the rear spoiler and dropping it off to @iceton1975 for delivery. Im sure he will approve of what I've done with the car
-AJPS KE70 front coil overs with 40mm RCA's
-15x10 -12 superlites with 225/50/15
-chopped Torana Springs in the rear with HQ shocks
-rattle can panda paint job
My mates Datsun 260z that I helped him build won the best classic category.
150ish rwkw L28 race motor with stainless headers/3" exhaust/triple Webber's/custom coil overs/Watanabe in 16x9/fresh LSD 4.4 diff/ R32 front and Silvia rear disc brake upgrade
I finally got some mandrel bends to play with. Let the fun begin:
Here's the weekend's work:
I made a jig out of a piece of old counter top. It pivots around the bolt and is attatched to the piece of table top that slides in and out. Works great and allows me to transfer angles from the flexible tube to the metal primary and cut a really square cut.
I tried hard to get the primaries length equal. So the Number 1 tube is a straight shot. Once I had that all tacked into place I could lift the flange, tube, and merge out of the car and work on the bench, test fitting as needed.
When I put this in the car I discovered that Number 5 primary completely obscured the sump drain plug, so I had to redo it.
Here is the revised routing:
And all assembled:
The tubes are within about 20mm of being the same length with number 3 being the longest, oddly enough.
This is of course the LHS. I can get it in and out of the car, access the sump drain and all the spark plugs just fine. At the moment it is all just tacked together. Once I have verified that it will fit in the 262 I will finish weld it all. Under the car it is extremely tight. The 4L60e is really large. A manual transmission and/or a tri-Y type exhaust might be a lot easier.
When I have regained my sanity, what little I had in the start, I will have a go at the RHS.